Post your woodwork here

[patches]

Stripped down the budget Festool router. When I got it the plunge wasn't working due to stiction.

It's infinitely better now, and seems to be running great.

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

Next challenge is finding a guide bushing adapter for it. Local Festool agents don't have them.

[ABrooks]

4 minutes ago, patches said:

Stripped down the budget Festool router. When I got it the plunge wasn't working due to stiction.

It's infinitely better now, and seems to be running great.

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

Next challenge is finding a guide bushing adapter for it. Local Festool agents don't have them.

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

[Rocket-Boy]

12 minutes ago, ABrooks said:

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

Funny, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

When you have a 3D printer you think quite differently about these kinds of problems!

[Rocket-Boy]

20 minutes ago, patches said:

 

Hopefully it's 81 Kiwi Copecs well spent.

 

Are those loosely related to Canuckistan Copecs?

[patches]

23 minutes ago, ABrooks said:

You could experiment with 3d printing one in the meantime while you wait for the part. Just up the wall count in Cura and it should hold up.

 

10 minutes ago, Rocket-Boy said:

Funny, I was thinking exactly the same thing.

When you have a 3D printer you think quite differently about these kinds of problems!

 

Yeah was also thinking of printing one. I know roughly what the Festool one looks like. I just need to get some guide bushes so I can work on the ID of the adapter (although it should be 30mm as I believe that's what most threaded guide bush sets are.

I did check thingiverse, but no luck, so I'll have to reverse engineer one... once I get my verniers back from Lost & Found at the Men's Shed ????

6 minutes ago, Rocket-Boy said:

Are those loosely related to Canuckistan Copecs?

1 Canuckistan Copec = 1.13 Kiwi Copecs. Maybe they should rather be called Kiwi Kwacha at that rate!

Edited May 27, 2021 by patches

[patches]

Being vernierless, I used a steel rule to quickly measure up and model 2 options.

The left based on the base opening (should offer more resistance against torsional flex). The right baed on the OEM Festool adpater (or as best as I could judge it.

[Rocket-Boy]

20 hours ago, patches said:

Being vernierless, I used a steel rule to quickly measure up and model 2 options.

The left based on the base opening (should offer more resistance against torsional flex). The right baed on the OEM Festool adpater (or as best as I could judge it.

I like your design more for 3D printing, it will be a more rigid part. 

I wonder how much Festool charges for that stamped piece of steel?

[MTBeer]

9 hours ago, Rocket-Boy said:

I like your design more for 3D printing, it will be a more rigid part. 

I wonder how much Festool charges for that stamped piece of steel?

More than they should?

[Rocket-Boy]

On 5/28/2021 at 5:28 PM, MTBeer said:

More than they should?

Its Festool, it will be WAY more than it should cost.

[patches]

Today I made one if my most important pieces to date...

A ring box for my wedding in 3 days time.

 

Black Walnut with Neodymium magnets hidden beneath opposing corners to create closing latch system and a pivot to allow it to swing open.

Fabric samples from SA to add a touch of home.

 

Was a fun build with some interesting challenges.

[Jaws677]

.

Edited April 5, 2022 by Jaws677

[dev null]

Just a heads up. Stay away from Pro-Tech router bits.

I just ruined a bookcase I was building because the trimmer bit malfunctioned. Half a sheet worth of 21mm Birch ply stuffed up.

The screw that holds the bearing came loose while I was trimming an edge causing the bit to take away more material than it should have.

Never in my life will I touch that crap again. Problem is that we don't have much options here in ZA. And I just bought it on Monday. So it was brand new. Most probably they used the cheapest thread lock in existence.

Edited June 3, 2021 by dev null

[ABrooks]

2 hours ago, dev null said:

Just a heads up. Stay away from Pro-Tech router bits.

I just ruined a bookcase I was building because the trimmer bit malfunctioned. Half a sheet worth of 21mm Birch ply stuffed up.

The screw that holds the bearing came loose while I was trimming an edge causing the bit to take away more material than it should have.

Never in my life will I touch that crap again. Problem is that we don't have much options here in ZA. And I just bought it on Monday. So it was brand new. Most probably they used the cheapest thread lock in existence.

Sorry to hear, I think you can get Freud router bits in South Africa, pricey but might be worth it if their saw blades is anything to go by. 

[dev null]

3 hours ago, ABrooks said:

Sorry to hear, I think you can get Freud router bits in South Africa, pricey but might be worth it if their saw blades is anything to go by. 

 

Thanks. I also found Whiteside router bits somewhere on an SA site. Double what I paid for the Pro-Tech, but at the price of premium wood these days one cannot have cheap tools ruin your project in a few seconds what you spent hours on working carefully and accurately because you cannot afford to scrap the wood for a second go.

[stefmeister]

9 hours ago, dev null said:

 

Thanks. I also found Whiteside router bits somewhere on an SA site. Double what I paid for the Pro-Tech, but at the price of premium wood these days one cannot have cheap tools ruin your project in a few seconds what you spent hours on working carefully and accurately because you cannot afford to scrap the wood for a second go.

 

Dimar bits is probably the best you can find locally. But a screw coming loose does not necessarily make it a bad bit. Imo, Protech bits are crap, but you should probably always use some locktite on the bearing screw or at least check that it's not coming loose - they're made for interchangeability between different size bearings.

 

[Capricorn]

1 minute ago, stefmeister said:

 

Dimar bits is probably the best you can find locally. But a screw coming loose does not necessarily make it a bad bit. Imo, Protech bits are crap, but you should probably always use some locktite on the bearing screw or at least check that it's not coming loose - they're made for interchangeability between different size bearings.

 

agree with stefmeister.

 

I too had a bearing come loose, and it royally fudged up my work. But i realized the fault was mine, in that i failed to check for free running of the bearing first. The screw clamps down on the inner race of the bearing with the outer race intended to run freely. If the bearing is not maintained, crud build, rust etc up can cause increased friction between the bearing balls and the races.

So depending on which way you run the router, i think the increased internal friction could act to unwind that screw over time, not to mention vibrations from dull bits causing the same.
Threadlocker should prevent the loosening due to vibration, but that's part of maintenance of the bit and its bearings, to ensure the presence and condition of the threadlocker.