How forked is your fork?

[droo]

I do all my own bike builds and maintenance, but have always stayed clear from stripping forks and shocks. I did venture once and stripped my RP2 shock, and well let just say it didn't end well.

 

Recently my RP2 started losing air on rides and my fork developed an oil weep on the one stantion, so i decided to re-visit doing this service myself.

 

Step 1 - Education - A few youtube videos later i realized the air can service and fork seal service are actually very simple - Just don't touch the dampers uni till you become highly educated on this subject.

 

Step 2 - Finding the correct seal kits - Here the most difficult was identifying the exact year and model of my fork - FOX website is pretty good with this info once you learn how to navigate their website. You also need to know the correct oil volume for your model fork, here again once you know the model and year FOX website will give you this info.

 

Step 3 - buying the seal kits and oil - And this is where it gets crazy ! A seal kit for the fork is 650 ZA Ronds, This is for 2 oil seals 2 wiper rings and 2 crush washers. The Shock seal kit was nearly half the price with triple the amount of seals in the kit. Then there's the recommended FOX oil which no one seems to have in stock.

 

Step 4 - Strip the shock changed the seals and re-assemble in 1 hour. Strip the fork replace the seals and re-assemble in 45 minutes. Everything done cost me about 1300 ZA Ronds, and that includes the 1 litre Motul fork oil i bought instead of FOX oil.

 

So all in all the service for both the shock and fork cost me about 1K and say 2 hours of my time, which includes stripping and re-assembling back on the bike.

 

What gets me is the cost of the seal kits and their recommendation that this should be done every 30 hrs (some say 50 hrs) of riding. In my opinion, one should change the wiper seals and oil every 50 - 60 hrs of riding as the oils seals should still be good to go. maybe the oil seal change every 2nd year.

But you cannot get the wiper seals and crush washer separate so you forced to buy the entire kit and change everything.

 

The LBS make good money doing these services, my last fork service cost me R 1 700.00 and the shock service was not much cheaper. This because like me, virtually everyone thinks its a highly complicated process - But go check out the videos and online instructions, its about as complicated as removing your chain.

 

Bear in mind when making price comparisons that the service you've done on your shock is far from a full rebuild - you haven't touched the damper, which is the important bit. Special tools, nitrogen charging equipment and another seal kit needed.

 

Same may apply to the fork - if it's a FIT damper you've only done half the service.

[Skylark]

Be very careful when making a comment of option sound like a blanket statement of fact for such products. There is nothing wrong with an application of external fork lube if used correctly. I agree that given certain conditions (used on a fork that has not been cleaned of dirt/dust), an external lube could cause issues...in exactly the same way that lube can cause issues with a chain and attract more dirt.

 

Use any lube in moderation and only when the area of application is clean and dry.

 

It would be interesting to see if there was any evidence that turning a bicycle upside down allowed the oil to soak the foam rings and displace external contamination?

Simon, aren't you the importer of Brunox or connected to them?

Nothing like a little conflict of interest to bring things to light..

[Skylark]

They smell the same and are the same colour. Must be identical!

I've seen so much rebranding of products either to be able to market the same product to a different segment or for a different company to sell under their own brand, that when the spec sheet and product are that similar you can only assume they are well suited for either application and the contents are probably identical.

[Tankman]

 

You say that you can't find and Suspension Fork manufacturer that recommends external fork lube....any chance that you could find an example where they explicitly DON'T recommend it??? Until then, calling these products "snake oil" is just your opinion and not factually correct.

 

 

 

 

Haha!  Imagine how long the list would be if Durex had to include the things they recommend you DONT do!

 

Dont stick it in _____

Dont fill it with _____

Dont inflate it  _____

Dont play with _____ while ____

Dont pull it over ______

 

:D

 

SRAM/Rock Shox "...Adding a little lube to the outside of the seals, then pushing on the suspension can help lift a little more dirt out from the seal."

 

Enduro "...In this case, Finish Line Stanchion Lube applied periodically can be helpful."

 

What Sram said there is an explanation of what happens when you apply the lube.

A recommendation sounds more like:  "Apply external fork lube after every ride or once a week"  That is exactly the way the snake oil companies will twist words to suit them.

 

Anyway, I am over this now, I have experienced enough evidence that I wont be changing my opinion (or recommendations) anytime soon and I am not here to try and change yours either.

 

Use it, dont use it, your choice.

[Headshot]

The service kit for a fork includes every seal and o ring needed to service the fork. You don't need any of these things if you are just dping a lower leg service to change the lubricating oil. This is the most important and regular servicing required and will result in a fork that lasts a long time. The dampers start underperforming after a while and that's where it gets expensive but at least you're not going to trash the fork if you exceed the service intervals I don't think...

[Shebeen]

Simon, aren't you the importer of Brunox or connected to them?

Nothing like a little conflict of interest to bring things to light..

ooooh, that needs an answer.

 

If that's true then not disclosing that is really bad form

[Bos]

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

[usxorf]

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

Which tool lets you check under a dust wiper?

[Simon Kolin]

Simon, aren't you the importer of Brunox or connected to them?

Nothing like a little conflict of interest to bring things to light..

No, I am in no way associated with Brunox or Atlantic Cycle Products.

[T-Bob]

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

 

This seems much more like it. Just like the pressure guide on the legs of all forks are totally out of whack but if you follow them then you're going to be getting full travel but not likely to screw them and hobble off to the nearest slip-n-sue lawyer for some upgrade coin. 

 

End of the day, they are expensive bits of kit and should be looked after in line with the kind of riding and location you're at. That can be with a shop or at home you, roll your dice and make your choice. A lot of people do the simple things like lowers etc at home cos it's fun / easy and saves money. Just as there is a steady stream of people into shops starting conversation with 'Not sure what happened I just thought I'd do a (insert  procedure / item) wonder if you could just see what happened, sure it's just a simple thing' 

[Mojoman]

Which tool lets you check under a dust wiper?

A screwdriver.....

[droo]

The service kit for a fork includes every seal and o ring needed to service the fork. You don't need any of these things if you are just dping a lower leg service to change the lubricating oil. This is the most important and regular servicing required and will result in a fork that lasts a long time. The dampers start underperforming after a while and that's where it gets expensive but at least you're not going to trash the fork if you exceed the service intervals I don't think...

 

Depends on the damper. I've seen a good few trashed dampers from exceeding service intervals, but it does take some doing.

[dev null]

A screwdriver.....

 

I use a toothpick. 

[Odinson]

Which tool lets you check under a dust wiper?

 

A Stanley knife works well. Nice and thin; gets in between the seal and stanchion quite easily. 

[Skylark]

A screwdriver.....

I use a toothpick.

A Stanley knife works well. Nice and thin; gets in between the seal and stanchion quite easily.

Farksteaks I wouldn't bring anything mettallic between the stanchions and seals, especially not if you are checking it often.

 

Toothpick, thin wood, plastic implement, blunted disposable plastic knife would work well.

 

You just want to lift the lip of the seal off the stanchions and shine a light into the inner seal area to see if dirt is getting in there.

 

How do you check if your seals are toast?

 

I see people mentioning replacing the seals yearly or similar, my current seals are a few years old and still perfect, ie they keep the oil in and dirt out.

[droo]

A Stanley knife works well. Nice and thin; gets in between the seal and stanchion quite easily. 

 

FWIW, I can't condone this kind of behaviour. The thought of a Stanley knife near a wiper seal makes my nuts tighten a bit.

 

Just drop the lowers and change the oil every 50 hours, and sort the damper and spring out every 100 - 150 and you're good.