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How forked is your fork?


Tankman

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Posted

They smell the same and are the same colour. Must be identical!

I've seen so much rebranding of products either to be able to market the same product to a different segment or for a different company to sell under their own brand, that when the spec sheet and product are that similar you can only assume they are well suited for either application and the contents are probably identical.
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Posted

 

You say that you can't find and Suspension Fork manufacturer that recommends external fork lube....any chance that you could find an example where they explicitly DON'T recommend it??? Until then, calling these products "snake oil" is just your opinion and not factually correct.

 

 

 

 

Haha!  Imagine how long the list would be if Durex had to include the things they recommend you DONT do!

 

Dont stick it in _____

Dont fill it with _____

Dont inflate it  _____

Dont play with _____ while ____

Dont pull it over ______

 

:D :D :D

 

SRAM/Rock Shox "...Adding a little lube to the outside of the seals, then pushing on the suspension can help lift a little more dirt out from the seal."

 

Enduro "...In this case, Finish Line Stanchion Lube applied periodically can be helpful."

 

What Sram said there is an explanation of what happens when you apply the lube.

A recommendation sounds more like:  "Apply external fork lube after every ride or once a week"  That is exactly the way the snake oil companies will twist words to suit them.

 

Anyway, I am over this now, I have experienced enough evidence that I wont be changing my opinion (or recommendations) anytime soon and I am not here to try and change yours either.

 

Use it, dont use it, your choice.

Posted

The service kit for a fork includes every seal and o ring needed to service the fork. You don't need any of these things if you are just dping a lower leg service to change the lubricating oil. This is the most important and regular servicing required and will result in a fork that lasts a long time. The dampers start underperforming after a while and that's where it gets expensive but at least you're not going to trash the fork if you exceed the service intervals I don't think...

Posted

Simon, aren't you the importer of Brunox or connected to them?

Nothing like a little conflict of interest to bring things to light..

ooooh, that needs an answer.

 

If that's true then not disclosing that is really bad form

Posted

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

Posted

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

Which tool lets you check under a dust wiper?

Posted

Simon, aren't you the importer of Brunox or connected to them?

Nothing like a little conflict of interest to bring things to light..

No, I am in no way associated with Brunox or Atlantic Cycle Products.

Posted

I recon the 50 hours is what the manufacturer found to be the the shortest timespan one of their products could get buggered in. and indemnified themselves accordingly.

Ex, if they recommended 150 hours (which might be often enough if the fork is looked after and kept well) but some brute rode his new Pike in finest red clay every day without cleaning it off found his fork to be forked in 50 hours they would have lawsuits on their hands. And don't we know the Americans love lawsuits.

 

Use a appropriate tool and check under the dust wiper from time to time, if you find some dirt in there regularly chances are there's more inside take it in..or do it yourself.  

 

This seems much more like it. Just like the pressure guide on the legs of all forks are totally out of whack but if you follow them then you're going to be getting full travel but not likely to screw them and hobble off to the nearest slip-n-sue lawyer for some upgrade coin. 

 

End of the day, they are expensive bits of kit and should be looked after in line with the kind of riding and location you're at. That can be with a shop or at home you, roll your dice and make your choice. A lot of people do the simple things like lowers etc at home cos it's fun / easy and saves money. Just as there is a steady stream of people into shops starting conversation with 'Not sure what happened I just thought I'd do a (insert  procedure / item) wonder if you could just see what happened, sure it's just a simple thing' 

Posted

The service kit for a fork includes every seal and o ring needed to service the fork. You don't need any of these things if you are just dping a lower leg service to change the lubricating oil. This is the most important and regular servicing required and will result in a fork that lasts a long time. The dampers start underperforming after a while and that's where it gets expensive but at least you're not going to trash the fork if you exceed the service intervals I don't think...

 

Depends on the damper. I've seen a good few trashed dampers from exceeding service intervals, but it does take some doing.

Posted

A screwdriver..... :ph34r:

I use a toothpick.

A Stanley knife works well. Nice and thin; gets in between the seal and stanchion quite easily.

Farksteaks I wouldn't bring anything mettallic between the stanchions and seals, especially not if you are checking it often.

 

Toothpick, thin wood, plastic implement, blunted disposable plastic knife would work well.

 

You just want to lift the lip of the seal off the stanchions and shine a light into the inner seal area to see if dirt is getting in there.

 

How do you check if your seals are toast?

 

I see people mentioning replacing the seals yearly or similar, my current seals are a few years old and still perfect, ie they keep the oil in and dirt out.

Posted

A Stanley knife works well. Nice and thin; gets in between the seal and stanchion quite easily. 

 

FWIW, I can't condone this kind of behaviour. The thought of a Stanley knife near a wiper seal makes my nuts tighten a bit.

 

Just drop the lowers and change the oil every 50 hours, and sort the damper and spring out every 100 - 150 and you're good.

Posted

Farksteaks I wouldn't bring anything mettallic between the stanchions and seals, especially not if you are checking it often.

 

Toothpick, thin wood, plastic implement, blunted disposable plastic knife would work well.

 

You just want to lift the lip of the seal off the stanchions and shine a light into the inner seal area to see if dirt is getting in there.

 

How do you check if your seals are toast?

 

I see people mentioning replacing the seals yearly or similar, my current seals are a few years old and still perfect, ie they keep the oil in and dirt out.

 

 

FWIW, I can't condone this kind of behaviour. The thought of a Stanley knife near a wiper seal makes my nuts tighten a bit.

 

Just drop the lowers and change the oil every 50 hours, and sort the damper and spring out every 100 - 150 and you're good.

 

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Posted

FWIW, I can't condone this kind of behaviour. The thought of a Stanley knife near a wiper seal makes my nuts tighten a bit.

 

Just drop the lowers and change the oil every 50 hours, and sort the damper and spring out every 100 - 150 and you're good.

 

Hahah.. Skrewdrivers, stanly knives...YOh SH*T what did I do...

Stanly knife on anodiszing freaks me out completely. 

Perhaps I shouldnt have mentioned it at all. Its what I do using an appropriate tool, but like you said, perhaps best not to. 

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