PhilipV Posted January 15, 2019 Posted January 15, 2019 That fast guy on tbe Ibex is likely just a good rider. I bet he will be faster still with a Maxxis DHRII or DHF.Actually no, because the sideknobs in the minions (the knobs with the little stripes) tear in half later. And then the rail on the minion is pointless. There was a minion dhf in my tyre crate, I think I gave it to my gardener. It harks from the 26 era. The Ibex is great for a rider who leans aggressively, and weights the front wheel down enough so that the tyre can do it's job. I'm running Ibex on both my bikes on the front, in 2.4 and 2.25 sizes, straight through the year, from dry summer into wet winter.They don't like hard cases or sideloading hits though, I've thrown away two Ibex tyres with warped carcasses that died on my back wheel. Now I run aggressor. [emoji108]
Yo-Yo Posted January 15, 2019 Posted January 15, 2019 (edited) My recent thinking is that tyres are as personal as the bike they are on and the rider who is on top of that bike. I've had bikes that are 5* in reviews and not got on with them but then the guys I've sold them to love them. It's all about how you ride, what you ride and one tyre you love may not suit your friends and visa versa. I'm starting to look around at different makes like the new Michelin range, Good Year and Panaracer offerings. Might be shite but might be great. Edited January 15, 2019 by Yo-yo Wheelie87 1
Eddy Gordo Posted January 15, 2019 Posted January 15, 2019 I have had those same issues with minions, hi rollers and dh tyres. The knobs just dont hold up.I bought lots of different brand used tyres to see what I like. Best way if you willing to spend, test and resell.
Headshot Posted January 16, 2019 Author Posted January 16, 2019 Looking at Mayhems pics and doing the finger test on a MM I have in 26", the difference between it and the Butcher is clear as the daylight between the Butchers knobs. It's not only the absence of transition knobs but also the highway across the top of the tyre. On the Mary you cant run your finger from one side to the other without encountering a knob. Then there is the super built up side knobs that seem to never let go. The MM is the gold standard IMO. I'm starting to convince myself it's what I need... Capricorn, Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and Eddy Gordo 3
Headshot Posted January 16, 2019 Author Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) double tap delete... Edited January 16, 2019 by Headshot
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 Looking at Mayhems pics and doing the finger test on a MM I have in 26", the difference between it and the Butcher is clear as the daylight between the Butchers knobs. It's not only the absence of transition knobs but also the highway across the top of the tyre. On the Mary you cant run your finger from one side to the other without encountering a knob. Then there is the super built up side knobs that seem to never let go. The MM is the gold standard IMO. I'm starting to convince myself it's what I need...You won't be sorry. It and the Eliminator are apparently neck and neck in terms of suitability for pretty much everywhere. Just not sure how the Eliminator will behave in the wet.
Jewbacca Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 Sjoe.... okes are technical! I have absolutely no idea what half this tire talk is about but my strava times on my hardtail are faster than some of the guys chatting here...... (is it friday?) ChristiaanSt 1
Odinson Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 Sjoe.... okes are technical! I have absolutely no idea what half this tire talk is about but my strava times on my hardtail are faster than some of the guys chatting here...... (is it friday?) Always that one guy. Faster, harder, longer. Jewbacca 1
Duane_Bosch Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 In the immortal words of Bullet Tooth Tony. You're in trouble now boy.
Headshot Posted January 16, 2019 Author Posted January 16, 2019 Sjoe.... okes are technical! I have absolutely no idea what half this tire talk is about but my strava times on my hardtail are faster than some of the guys chatting here...... (is it friday?) It must be your tyres. Come on share!
Duane_Bosch Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) Sjoe.... okes are technical! I have absolutely no idea what half this tire talk is about but my strava times on my hardtail are faster than some of the guys chatting here...... (is it friday?) what is this fast you speak of? I prefer to describe my riding as thorough. I like to minutely ride over and make wheel and eye contact with ever rock and root i encounter on the trails. This is to get full value from the experience. That's much better than this fast malarky. If you go fast the ride finishes so much more quickly. Whats the point of that? Edited January 16, 2019 by Duane_Bosch Eddy Gordo and Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 2
Duane_Bosch Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 on a serous note. Wait until you do a climb and are pretty happy with yourself for getting to the top. Only to discover that the fastest guy is 5 times faster than you. #realitycheck Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 Sjoe.... okes are technical! I have absolutely no idea what half this tire talk is about but my strava times on my hardtail are faster than some of the guys chatting here...... (is it friday?) And? Well done for having the skill to overcome a smaller amount of outright grip. Personally, I prefer to have as much as I can, so that my suckage is managed a bit better. Differences between tyres are easily observed, even at warp snail. Bizkit031 1
Eddy Gordo Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 What about crank length? Some people believe a longer crank is better, as per laws of physics, leverage ratio, to move an object. I have adopted a shorter crank after using 175 for a while. I am now using 170mm and the pedal stroke is much nicer especially on high revolutions up a hill. My feet are much more planted on the 170 cranks and lets not forget the added bonus of fewer rock strikes Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and Headshot 2
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 What about crank length? Some people believe a longer crank is better, as per laws of physics, leverage ratio, to move an object.I have adopted a shorter crank after using 175 for a while. I am now using 170mm and the pedal stroke is much nicer especially on high revolutions up a hill. My feet are much more planted on the 170 cranks and lets not forget the added bonus of fewer rock strikesYeah, I wanna go to 165's when my existing crank dies. But it just won't. SLX too strong. Pedal strikes on climbs and descents, and when trying to get a pedal in on a rocky trail are horrible, and there's no reported loss of power as a result of changing to 165's. Some people actually benefit from the change. Smaller circles and all that. Eddy Gordo and nonky 2
Duane_Bosch Posted January 16, 2019 Posted January 16, 2019 I've watched plenty of GCN shows where they discuss crank length. At length. I think the conventional wisdom is short cranks for short people. But from what I can tell from GCN there's no material (maybe 1 or 2 watts?) benefit to changing in either direction. IMO crank length is pretty low on the list of things you should be looking at ITO bike fit. Especially on an MTB. Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
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