Jewbacca Posted May 8, 2019 Share I have found that a 'hardcore' hardtail is rad, but 120mm 68'-67' HA with medium reach on a 29er is a sweet spot in SA. In order to properly run a 150mm fork the HA needs to be slack. Properly slack. This then makes the bike long. Adding the 'modern geo' reach, you land up with a hardtail with a 1.25m (sometimes longer) wheelbase. This is RAD if you ride big steep lines with flowy berms and gaps and are able to ride them at speed. We have virtually none of that in SA. A bike like that doesn't climb nicely, no matter how you dress it up with a 77' SA. We typically have traily trails. Even double black, plumber and status Quo in Jonkers won't be made easier on a super long slack hardtail as offered by BTR, Sick, Kingdom etc. I know guys riding those trails comfortably on 120mm travel 'trail' geo hardtails. (I used to be one of them until I got a real bike). The Slade fits into the above catagory with a touch more travel, but without the ridiculous geometry. After being so adamant for so many years that a trail bike dual suss was a waste of time, I take that all back. I was wrong. Not to say I didn't have fun on my 'hardcore' hardtails, but have subsequently found that a genuine trail bike kicks it's pants and a geniune XC bike kicks it's pants depending on the desired application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MomsenBikes SA Posted May 8, 2019 Share thanks for the feedback and kind words guys! as someone mentioned the ENDURO HARDTAIL is a small , niche, discerning market here in SA - whilst we do like the style and definitely would love to have 1 in our range - the numbers required to justify the design / tooling ( yes, we pay for moulds and unique tube profiles and bends etc ) / stock etc. are just not there. The ST-R Version 2 was designed as a Steel 29er that could be used for a variety of riding styles - from SingleSpeed 29er fun to XC Racing and probably really nice as a Adventure/Touring/MonsterCross bike too -- we tried to cover as much as possible in terms of what someone would have either "lying around" to build it up or " dream spec " it up at a store. from what we have seen - there has been a healthy mix of both " scenarios ". the key outline on the V2.0 is: -- updated geometry compared to the original - a bit slacker and longer-- 100 to 120mm fork compatibility-- taper headtube -- 142 Rear Thru-Axle ( to fit your old non Boost wheels you might have lying around )-- revised frame sizing - true S, M, L , XL ( i.e. 15/17/19/21" ) compared to the original S, M, L ( which were 17, 19, 21" and confused everyone ) Never say never .... but for now we don't have plans to do a V3.0 as we still have a fair bit of stock of the ST-R frames still on hand ... again, a very niche and discerning market. it is however GREAT to see the builds and creative bikes being put together using our ST-R ( and the ST-F ) frames - kinda makes it all worthwhile - even though it makes almost ZERO business sense in terms of what we sell etc. keep sharing the pics pls Wannabe, Hairy and Comrade J 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 8, 2019 Share I have an STR2 ..... could I slap a angle set headset into the frame to bring the geo closer to the 67-68 deg HA mark? Thanks for your direct interaction on the STR's! thanks for the feedback and kind words guys! as someone mentioned the ENDURO HARDTAIL is a small , niche, discerning market here in SA - whilst we do like the style and definitely would love to have 1 in our range - the numbers required to justify the design / tooling ( yes, we pay for moulds and unique tube profiles and bends etc ) / stock etc. are just not there. The ST-R Version 2 was designed as a Steel 29er that could be used for a variety of riding styles - from SingleSpeed 29er fun to XC Racing and probably really nice as a Adventure/Touring/MonsterCross bike too -- we tried to cover as much as possible in terms of what someone would have either "lying around" to build it up or " dream spec " it up at a store. from what we have seen - there has been a healthy mix of both " scenarios ". the key outline on the V2.0 is: -- updated geometry compared to the original - a bit slacker and longer-- 100 to 120mm fork compatibility-- taper headtube -- 142 Rear Thru-Axle ( to fit your old non Boost wheels you might have lying around )-- revised frame sizing - true S, M, L , XL ( i.e. 15/17/19/21" ) compared to the original S, M, L ( which were 17, 19, 21" and confused everyone ) Never say never .... but for now we don't have plans to do a V3.0 as we still have a fair bit of stock of the ST-R frames still on hand ... again, a very niche and discerning market. it is however GREAT to see the builds and creative bikes being put together using our ST-R ( and the ST-F ) frames - kinda makes it all worthwhile - even though it makes almost ZERO business sense in terms of what we sell etc. keep sharing the pics pls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MomsenBikes SA Posted May 8, 2019 Share I have an STR2 ..... could I slap a angle set headset into the frame to bring the geo closer to the 67-68 deg HA mark? Thanks for your direct interaction on the STR's! don't have any experience with the Angle Set headsets - but if only a bearing - it should be fine. the issue is when you change the fork axle to crown which raises the BB and adds leverage on the entire front end of the bike - frame was designed around a 100 to 120mm fork travel. if the Angle Set is merely effecting fork angle it sounds like a good idea if your main intention is to slacken the front end a bit. you could achieve similar results by playing with volume of tyre etc. or different stems or saddle positioning etc. alot of variables Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 8, 2019 Share Shotto! don't have any experience with the Angle Set headsets - but if only a bearing - it should be fine. the issue is when you change the fork axle to crown which raises the BB and adds leverage on the entire front end of the bike - frame was designed around a 100 to 120mm fork travel. if the Angle Set is merely effecting fork angle it sounds like a good idea if your main intention is to slacken the front end a bit. you could achieve similar results by playing with volume of tyre etc. or different stems or saddle positioning etc. alot of variables Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Letum911 Posted May 9, 2019 Share thanks for the feedback and kind words guys! Never say never .... but for now we don't have plans to do a V3.0 as we still have a fair bit of stock of the ST-R frames still on hand ... again, a very niche and discerning market. keep sharing the pics pls How about a trade in deal PS. I love the STR, here's mine. Main issue on the V1 is the tyre clearance at the back, it's a mission to find a tyre that fits. Steven Knoetze (sk27) and Pieter1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocknRolla Posted May 9, 2019 Share When my shock on my on-one dies, and I am forced to return it to running a rigid fork, I will probably purchase a STR2. The slacker HA the Tapered steerer are major drawcards for me.My mate runs a white STR1 and he loves that bike. Maybe my ship comes in and I get an STR2 sooner than I think.... Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinmug Posted May 9, 2019 Share What's the difference (aside from rear wheel clearance) between the STR v1 and STR v2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease_Monkey Posted May 9, 2019 Share What's the difference (aside from rear wheel clearance) between the STR v1 and STR v2?Momsen did highlight the changes in their post above. tinmug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinmug Posted May 9, 2019 Share Thanks – they really only listed v2 features/design elements. Not sure how that compares to v1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Letum911 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Thanks – they really only listed v2 features/design elements. Not sure how that compares to v1. In short the whole bike. Geo is a lot more slack and the clearance on the tyres are better. Also the colours are cooler tinmug and Hairy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendrich Posted May 10, 2019 Share These bikes are really great .. I am having a hard time parting with this frame. It climbs well it handels downhills like no other HT. It soaks up 5m gap jumps it takes drops . What ever you throw at it . It eat it up. Decided to ramp up travel with 20mm and just increase sag to keep it more plush upfront but try and keep geometry more or less the same Will ride it till it dies . Which I think will never happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendrich Posted May 10, 2019 Share Steel is real Hairy and V12man 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted May 10, 2019 Share a couple of closer and more detailed pics would be appreciated. Steel is real Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORNE Posted May 10, 2019 Share a couple of closer and more detailed pics would be appreciated.to 'steel' with the eyes I presume , since thats the same colour one you got isn't it? Hairy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MomsenBikes SA Posted May 10, 2019 Share How about a trade in deal PS. I love the STR, here's mine. Main issue on the V1 is the tyre clearance at the back, it's a mission to find a tyre that fits. WhatsApp Image 2019-05-08 at 14.03.461.jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-05-08 at 14.03.46.jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-05-08 at 14.03.461.jpeg the V1 dates back to a time when 2.1 was KING and the idea of a 2.35 on a Stage Race/Marathon / XCO bike seems crazy. The original V1 frames were on the market in around 2012? so a good +5 years in terms of MTB trends. the newer ST-R and ST-F are more 2017 onwards in terms of their geo and design. will there be a 2020 ... ? tinmug and Letum911 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now