Momsen str . Help needed

[eddy]

https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/ will have

Thanks, I'll give them a shout.

[Hairy]

In testing the STR in the driveway, under load there is a groaning/creaking sound. I have changed the chain and then the chain ring to see if it was either of these ... and it was not.

 

Before ripping the hub apart, I will first remove the copper slip that I used between the frame and sliding drop outs ... this may just (hopefully) be the solution. If not, the hub will have to stripped down. I know the axel is secure and locked down, but I have never ridden this wheelset before, so do not really know what to expect from it.

[Hairy]

Bb or chainring bolt maybe?

Nope

 

BB is solid as a rock

 

1st chainring was a 36t NW that must have seen no more than 50km before

2nd chainring is a 32t On-One SS specific chainring that has been used before, but looks spotless because On-One just make such lekker chain rings.

[Hairy]

Will get back to the bike, just had other things I had to do (Such as play plumber ... and not the fun "role play plumber") ... tomorrow I will clean off the sliding dropouts and see if this works. Hoping that the lubricant is allowing the drop outs to slip slightly and hence the groan ... with no lube it will have more of a frictional bond.

[Jewbacca]

I ran those sliders on a few different bikes and never lubed them up... dry install, like an EBB......

[Hairy]

I ran those sliders on a few different bikes and never lubed them up... dry install, like an EBB......

I must say they are flipping cool compared to a traditional horizontal drop out ... if you adjust the chain tension, you no longer need to also adjust your brakes too and it you want to take your rear wheel out is it as simple as if it were a "normal" bike ... with the traditional horizontal drop outs having to align and tension up the drive train again following the wheel removal is just a pain in the butttttt!

[Monark]

Check the pedal thread for grease - I rebuilt my entire single speed diagnosing a creak... turned out to be a dry thread on the pedal where it connects to the crank arm

[V12man]

In testing the STR in the driveway, under load there is a groaning/creaking sound. I have changed the chain and then the chain ring to see if it was either of these ... and it was not.

 

Before ripping the hub apart, I will first remove the copper slip that I used between the frame and sliding drop outs ... this may just (hopefully) be the solution. If not, the hub will have to stripped down. I know the axel is secure and locked down, but I have never ridden this wheelset before, so do not really know what to expect from it.

Put some copper slip on the axle - across the full length - worth a go before stripping down a hub

[Hairy]

So after the following 

 

• 2 x different chain rings fitted
• 2 x different chains fitted
• pedals removed, cleaned, lubed and re-fitted
• hub freebody cleaned and lubed
• axel cleaned and lubed
• sliding drop outs cleaned
• retention bolts pulled out to see if it was rubbing on the drop outs causing the crunch / groan / creak

And the bike still made the noise.

 

Took her for a pedal around the driveway and you can feel the crunch and noise under torque in the drive train.....

 

It dawned on me, the flipping cog. Under closer scrutiny it showed signs of wear.

 

Fitted a new (er) cog and she is smooth and silent. Only problemo being that the gear ratio is too light for commuting and maybe just a bit too heavy for Table Mountain running on a 32x18t ... so going to pop on the longer chain and see how she rolls on a 36x18t for the commute.

 

@Kiwi ... I suspect I will be placing an order with you for some nice wide based cogs if I can not find any close to home!

[Hairy]

Put some copper slip on the axle - across the full length - worth a go before stripping down a hub

That was the first choice of lube on the axle .

[colindavie86]

howzit chaps

Looking for some advice from the suspension gurus on this group. I bought a second hand 120mm Reba for my stf. In order to get 25% sag i am pumping it to 40psi. Seems very low as the gauge on the side says I should be at 120psi. I seem to be using most of the travel without bottoming out unless taking a huge knock. However when riding a steeper trail the fork is almost fully compressed. Is this low pressure normal or might there be something wrong with the fork? Would some bottomless tokens perhaps be the solution (currently has none)?

[King_Crispy]

@hairy.

Why you running your qr on the rhs? Convention is left

[Jewbacca]

@hairy.

Why you running your qr on the rhs? Convention is left

Front wheel on the right away from the brake rotor. Rear would be left away from the RD.

 

I've always done this for ease of access.

 

Running the QR on the left on the front wheel would just be silly wouldn't it? 

 

Pretty sure all my 15mm fork axles also have the lever on the drive side....

[NotSoBigBen]

Front wheel on the right away from the brake rotor. Rear would be left away from the RD.

 

I've always done this for ease of access.

 

Running the QR on the left on the front wheel would just be silly wouldn't it?

 

Pretty sure all my 15mm fork axles also have the lever on the drive side....

Funny you say that, at the bike shop my son always does it the way you say, rear on the left and front on the right... I put both on the left, habit I suppose and it just 'looks' right [emoji12]

[Hairy]

Front wheel on the right away from the brake rotor. Rear would be left away from the RD.

 

I've always done this for ease of access.

 

Running the QR on the left on the front wheel would just be silly wouldn't it? 

 

Pretty sure all my 15mm fork axles also have the lever on the drive side....

[andyrtmorgan]

awesome - tks guys.

 

the main challenge will be our numbers for sure.

 

comments about colors - it was our 2017 range that really sucked! the 2018 and 2019 stuff is alot better but unfortunately you don't see them in many shops ... but agree 2017 we did not do ourselves any favors! 

 

the 2020 range is about to get updated on the site -- colors are VERY MUCH ON POINT --- we are not a niche brand in anyway so we have to respect the good old 80/20 rule for that.

 

we have to do 100 frames minimum to justify this kind of project -- so if we split it over 3 sizes it is just over 30 per size --- a tough ask in the current climate.

 

but let's see.

 

Next question -- anyone seen the really cool new Evil Gravel Bike? ( some spy pics popping up on Radavist etc )  I really like that bike! what about a MONSTER CROSS GRAVEL bike? is that not more where things are going for SA riding?

 

would love to do something in that space ... 

Sjoe... I'm busy converting my V1 STR frame (which was a nice SS gathering dust) to a nice gravel tourer as that seems to be what me and my mates are doing more of these days. Overnight bikepacking tours with 100ish km gravel days. Definitely seems to be something that is gaining popularity, but there are not many options for steel gravel frames locally.

 

I have been riding an alloy Specialized Tri-Cross which I picked up in the UK but it was hard as a goat's knee on anything but a super-smooth surface. Looking forward to the compliance that I know the STR will give me, but would like the option of being able to pick up a slightly lighter, more gravel specific steel frame. In an XL!

 

Just looking for a carbon rigid fork to finish my build, then I'll post a pic.