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Posted

Thanks for the comments and advice all. So seems this is not such an uncommon issue as I thought, as per the link Eddie sent.

 

What my LBS did should've resolved the issue, so I'm not sure why it didn't. Guess I'll try open it up myself this weekend. 

Posted (edited)

Another possible issue is the shifter cable.  Could be cable tied to tight somewhere or internally something could be too tight placing drag on the cable.  See this thread I stumbled on before about similar issue:  https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=216921

 

From the pictures it looks like it could be the same issue. Here is what the OP wrote:

 

 

"Thx for the replies.

 

What a difference!

 

It was the cable guide/clamp near the BB, it was too tight putting unnecessary drag on the derailleur cable."

Edited by eddy
Posted

Thanks for the comments and advice all. So seems this is not such an uncommon issue as I thought, as per the link Eddie sent.

 

What my LBS did should've resolved the issue, so I'm not sure why it didn't. Guess I'll try open it up myself this weekend. 

I'm not slagging your LBS off or anything but don't always assume something has been done or been done properly....If you are DIY and tech minded have a look your self unless it voids your warranty? At the price of a new RD best not to give any reason for Shimano/LBS to refute you claim.

Posted

It is the clutch and is a very common problem with the 1 x 12 Shimano derailleurs. My XT derailleur is less that three months old and did exactly the same. I went through whole process of getting the derailleur hanger checked, trying spacers and a longer b-screw, but to no avail. Opened the clutch and it is dry, rusted and sticky. It is a hassle to take the derailleur apart to clean the clutch.

 

Exactly the same happened with the clutch of my previous 11 speed XT derailleur, whereas the 6 year old 10 speed XT derailleur's clutch on my other bike is faultless.

 

It really pis.... me off when you pay R2,500 for a derailleur and it stops working properly after less than three months! Surely Shimano must know about the problem.

 

We are not alone: https://crankjoy.com/review-update-shimano-xt-8100-arising-issue

In my experience servicing the clutch involves removing three small screws, thus removing the dust cap, no need to even remove the chain let alone the wheel or derailleur. Not too much of a hassle imo. Not slamming your comment, just providing my take on take.

 

Lack of lubrication and dust impregnation seems to be the single biggest issue resulting in poor performance.

 

A minute dust seal (o-ring) keeps the dust out. Its very small and easy to deform or lost.

 

Note: XT and XTR also allows external adjustment of the torque applied with the clutch engaged. 

Posted

Another possible issue is the shifter cable.  Could be cable tied to tight somewhere or internally something could be too tight placing drag on the cable.  See this thread I stumbled on before about similar issue:  https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=216921

 

 

From the pictures it looks like it could be the same issue. Here is what the OP wrote:

 

 

"Thx for the replies.

 

What a difference!

 

It was the cable guide/clamp near the BB, it was too tight putting unnecessary drag on the derailleur cable."

 

 

Thanks, will look at this also. I haven't had a chance to look at the issue myself yet. 

Posted

I'm not slagging your LBS off or anything but don't always assume something has been done or been done properly....If you are DIY and tech minded have a look your self unless it voids your warranty? At the price of a new RD best not to give any reason for Shimano/LBS to refute you claim.

 

I've made my LBS aware that the problem hasn't been solved, and they've contacted Shimano to find out what next. It seems this is a fairly common issue and surely Shimano will have a protocol to deal with this. 

 

I can do basic maintenance myself so I might just open it up and see if there is anything obvious that might be causing the issue. But I won't fiddle too much or else I just bugger it up even more. LOL

Posted

I finally upgraded my old 3x gearing last year to SLX 1x12 and a Sunrace casette. A couple of friends have gone this route and are extremely happy with it. I'm however not impressed. Gear changes aren't smooth and very clunky, and recently it developed another issue, which I haven't seen on the hub yet.

 

When gearing down the bottom jockey wheel (if that's what you call it) doesn't move back to keep the chain tight, so the chain starts to hang. If I push it forward and let go it snaps back to hold the chain tight, but I have to do this every time I've gone up a few gears and then down again.

 

 attachicon.gifIMG_20200626_124211.jpg

 

I took it back to my LBS, at very short notice and not a lot of time for them to work on it. So kudos to them for still helping me out. He said they cleaned it out and correctly torqued something. Upon collection I went for a short ride, gearing felt a little better and derailleur seemed fine.

 

Very next day I take my bike out and chain is sagging again, even worse than before. I'm a 3 hour drive away from my LBS so can't quickly take it back and leave it there to have them sort it out. Has anyone experienced this before and have some advice on what I can do to solve this?

I've seen this several times now. It's either the clutch or the jockey pulley cage shaft that is dry and corroded. I'd get both serviced.

the clutch is approached from the the front face of the derailleur. Under the Allen cap where the jockey pulley cage swivels.

the shaft is approached from the back of the derailleur and requires the removal of the jockey pulley cage.

Posted

attachicon.gifCapture.JPG

 

Even though the b-tension looks to be off, it wont affect your rd cage getting stuck like that. Did you not maybe overextend the rd causing damage? This could happen if you bottom out in you granny gear and your chain is too short.

It could either be that there is an issue with the spring / cage. The spring that puts tension on the cage might be slipping out of its detent and getting stuck, or the spring might be broken.

 

Alternatively, your clutch can be binding up.

 

Long story short, its new, you LBS where you bought it should replace it for you.

 

(exploded view of rd just for reference, I know its a 10 speed rd)

 

edit:

 

it could be that the bolt, securing the cage to the RD body might be too tight also. See bolt in blue circle

attachicon.gifCapture2.jpg

Spot on.  Have had that coil spring slip out of the hole the end is secured in.  You can actually replace the spring if it worn or bent.  Taking it apart and cleaning and lubricating normally takes care of the sticking. If its a new derailleur this should not happen !!!

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