Jump to content

Shimano


LBKloppers

Recommended Posts

Yeah sounds like the hanger might be the issue. 
 

I’ve been on my 12 speed shimano setup for the past 5 years. And my experience has been it’s really set and forget. With the odd cable replacement. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, LBKloppers said:

I am quite capable of servicing all the mechanicals on my bike, but I'd rather ride than fiddle.

That’s fine, Some love the fiddle and others dont.. I love(and kind of hate🤣🤣)sorting things out myself and learning about my bike.. can’t do that if it never goes wrong.. 

I think it’s part of being a cyclist..

Anyways, good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the 'check your hanger' camp.. with one of those frikkin laserbeam things

12s has small margins at the best of times, a slight nurdle on the hanger and you will get that 'non' feeling, like when you used to use friction shifters and didn't quite have the feel for it. 

That or your chain is stretched. Then it can also feel like it's on loose rails. 

OR, unpopular opinion, downgrade to 11 speed or 10 speed.

I currently have a modern, made for purpose wide range 1x9 on my MTB. It gets the job done and it's cheap as chips

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, LBKloppers said:

10 or 11 speed Full XT 8100 on a mtb. My gripe.......The inexact tardy shifting. Yes I had everything, and I mean everything, was renewed and setup by the lbs just in case I was a poepol. The other day I got on a old bike my son had with 2010 X9 installed. The crispness of the shifting was such a reminder that we get used by what we have and then we accept it. 

My XT setup is indexed as good as it can be but there is this 3/4 gear area that never shifts when I like. I have to feather the shift or I have to jump two gears up and drop one to get where I want. In mtb, there might be a time or three where this can cause problems.

I don't have the budget to change, but I wish I did.

The other side of the coin is that Shimano still is cheap compared to the SRAM product.

Cheaper to change your LBS...

XT runs perfectly if set-up correctly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, W@nted said:

Theses symptoms are possibly due to a bent derailleur hanger. Did your lbs check it?

Jip. Straight as a rule.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Underachiever said:

Cheaper to change your LBS...

XT runs perfectly if set-up correctly

Apparently not ;-(

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, LBKloppers said:

Apparently not ;-(

 

BTW. This is not my first bad experience with Shimano. Hence my original post. A previous bike did exactly the same. There is history. That time around I was planning and did replace the bike. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, MORNE said:

I had this exact issue on AXS. Somewhere mid cassette it would just hesitate for a split second and no amount of electronic micro adjustments could get it sorted. Thats the thing…when theres a cable you can at least get a new one…play around with the tension. When its 1’s and 0’s / signals and it chooses to be salty, it will be salty. 

Linkglide is 11 speed (11-50) , and basically a ‘mechanical version’ of transmission in the way the tooth ramps work. So shifting is slightly slower than hyperglide etc…but way smoother and rock solid. Ive been super impressed with it. It just works…even on my high pivot bike.

?IMG_2144.jpeg

I quickly scanned the internet for this. What makes it different? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, LBKloppers said:

Are you suggesting that a clutch service might improve my frustrations?

 

Well worth a try.

 

I am running 1x11 Shimano on all 4 our bikes.

 

On the one bike I had an issue shortly after installation.  Did it myself, and tried to save a few minutes by re-using the old outer cable ....  Once I replaced it with a new inner cable it has been working perfectly for close on 8 000 km.

 

On the full suss I had one "scare" one morning.  Left home and about 1km further, first downhill, the gears just would not work and the chain was drooping .... I released the clutch, and manually worked the system through a couple of open/close actions.  The gears worked perfectly for the rest of the ride.  Clearly the clutch just needed a service.

 

 

Few years back I had two bikes, one after the other.  Both on sram GX .... life is just too short for that amount of fiddling.  When Knipe_Racing and later Mark just cant get these infernal things to behave for more than 500km at a time .... neeeeee dankie, nie weer nie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, PappaWatTrap said:

Yeah sounds like the hanger might be the issue. 
 

I’ve been on my 12 speed shimano setup for the past 5 years. And my experience has been it’s really set and forget. With the odd cable replacement. 

 

Bent hanger can drive you up the wall, irrespective of the brand of derailures ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aside from the hanger - clutch, B knuckle and pulley bearings are the most overlooked things that cause weirdness. Shimano 12 speed B knuckles are notorious for seizing up.

Also check for bent teeth on the cassette.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Jewbacca said:

I'm in the 'check your hanger' camp.. with one of those frikkin laserbeam things

12s has small margins at the best of times, a slight nurdle on the hanger and you will get that 'non' feeling, like when you used to use friction shifters and didn't quite have the feel for it. 

That or your chain is stretched. Then it can also feel like it's on loose rails. 

OR, unpopular opinion, downgrade to 11 speed or 10 speed.

I currently have a modern, made for purpose wide range 1x9 on my MTB. It gets the job done and it's cheap as chips

 

This . Downgrade. Running 1 x 11 Deore on my dual and 2 x10 GRX on my gravel bike . Smooth shifting and much cheaper to replace chains/ cassettes 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the Shimano 12-speed stuff pretty flimsy and poorly built. The clutch design is a pain if you don’t stay on top of maintaining it. I’ve now repaired two derailleurs (XTR and XT) both with corroded cage axles. Water gets in there and eventually the axle rusts inside the bushing and the cage tension spring can’t overcome it. The XT stuff is still relatively affordable compared to SRAM electronic but it doesn’t seem to last as long. Oh and the cage lock on SRAM is so, so nice to have. 

Edited by michaelbiker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And just a helpful tip if anyone is looking for spares to repair their derailleurs. Aliexpress has a ton of (either fake or original - I can’t really tell) Shimano spare parts. I also had to replace a corroded tension spring on the XTR derailleur and the spring I bought there worked 100%. Just make sure you get the right part number. 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ol1TygJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/10/2024 at 6:45 AM, LBKloppers said:

10 or 11 speed Full XT 8100 on a mtb. My gripe.......The inexact tardy shifting. Yes I had everything, and I mean everything, was renewed and setup by the lbs just in case I was a poepol. The other day I got on a old bike my son had with 2010 X9 installed. The crispness of the shifting was such a reminder that we get used by what we have and then we accept it. 

My XT setup is indexed as good as it can be but there is this 3/4 gear area that never shifts when I like. I have to feather the shift or I have to jump two gears up and drop one to get where I want. In mtb, there might be a time or three where this can cause problems.

I don't have the budget to change, but I wish I did.

The other side of the coin is that Shimano still is cheap compared to the SRAM product.

Are you in PTA? Bring it to me and I will sort it out free of charge 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/10/2024 at 6:45 AM, LBKloppers said:

 The other day I got on a old bike my son had with 2010 X9 installed. The crispness of the shifting was such a reminder that we get used by what we have and then we accept it. 

 

I have Dura Ace 11 speed on a road bike and XX 11 on a MTB. 

I both shift well, but neither as good as the 2004 Record 10spd and 2010 9spd X0 on some older bikes.

I suspect that shorter cages (it is easier to build a short rigid lever than a long one) , fewer gears (precision less critical) and perhaps more solid construction all contribute to this.

But both RDs shift solidly and immediately. The Record absolutely silently and the X0 with a satisfying clunk.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout