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TheoG

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Posts posted by TheoG

  1. Well he’ll be in this years merc next year? ☺

    But yes, i hope he rediscovers some of his form, we need a competitive Vettel, as we do an Alonso, and Leclerc, Max, hopefully Danny Ric. There is a slight chance for a crazy competitive season (for p2 at least?) next year if some teams pull finger.

     

    It has been a while since we had lots of different and hopefully competitive teams with top tier drivers occupying at least one seat.

     

    Agree, this boring Merc dominance must come to an end now, lets hope we see a very competitive season next year.

  2. For anyone interested, the orange one is called the Ocarina (looks like the musical instrument - random fact of the day) and gets good reviews ito accuracy. The drawback is that it only goes up to 10, but I like the type / design. The newer model also has an easier to read gauge.

     

    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/maintenance/tools-kits-and-boxes/torque-wrench/icetoolz-ocarina-torque-wrench-review/

     

     

     

    I see CWCycles has the E212 that goes from 5-25 for R749 atm. Watched an instructional video and it's quite a big heavy tool, not something you just carry around.

     

     

     

    Yes but no fittings   :wacko:

  3. When I didn't have one, it didn't bother me, just tightened on gut feel.

     

    Now that I got one, cant understand why it didn't bother me before, it simply remove the guess work and do so consistently.

     

    The Axis one for R960 is really good value for money.

  4. I work with test equipment. Even if that wrench is out of cal, 20% would be 6Nm if the torque is meant to be 5Nm. Carbon can take a lot more, OEM recommend a torque setting to avoid damaging equipment. I doubt 5Nm will end up at 20Nm. The most important part of a torque wrench is to make sure all bolt are tightened evenly. Also, I doubt a bicycle shop sends there torque wrench for a annual calibration.

     

    Also have some experience with test equipment, the worst I got from the above calibration values is 3.5% error, in my book that is pretty damn good.

     

    So I agree with you 200%.

  5. always best to leave your bike in smallest front ring and smallest on the cassette .. its stops your jockey springs from stretching and messing with your shifting.

     

    Just don't forget, some very much older (~2010) derailleurs worked in reverse, where the default position is on the largest cog, hence the reverse is true.  Problem with that was that if the "indexing spring" is relaxed, the "cage spring" is tensioned and vice versa.

     

    Good thing derailleurs changed to what we have now, both springs "relaxed" when on the smallest cogs.

  6. Reviving an old thread. Any more recent suggestions?

     

    This seems reasonably priced, but I don't just want to buy the cheapest option. https://bike-addict.co.za/products/axis-torque-wrench-set

     

    Or maybe this one?

     

    https://www.dragons.co.za/giant/gear/to023h-600000023-giant-torque-wrench-silver-221mm

     

    I bought the Axis one from Bike Addict.  It work 100%, very nice set, nothing wrong with the quality.  It comes with a calibration certificate which indicate that the accuracy is pretty good.  Just hope & believe I can trust it 100% ...

     

    4 Nm (4.11, 4.14, 4.12)

    10 Nm (10.3, 10.31, 10.28)

    12 Nm (12.39, 12.38, 12.34)

     

    Check that it can rather go to 24 Nm (Axis one can), 14 Nm is very limiting.

  7. Here is a locally supplied crank repair kit - Not cheap - they seem to be affiliated with Torqe Zone Academy - Maybe contact them and they can do a repair for you

     

    https://uniorbiketools.co.za/crank-saver-pedal-thread-repair-and-insert-kit-751556.html?cat=70826

     

    Any PROPER LBS should have a kit like this.  Somehow I doubt if that's the case, maybe one or two ...

     

    Edit:  PS, I will ride Shitmano any day rather tham Scram ...   :D .

  8. I had one done 3 months ago and since then I've had no issues until last week

     

    This is why I'm baffled perhaps I need to ask this guy to do another check

     

    Got a new bike 3 months ago and done the fit. We cycle every weekend since then so not sure why I'm having issues now

     

    Bike fit might make a difference but cramping after such a short distance, something else must be wrong or at very least contributing.

  9. I'm battling with cramps for a very long time.  Used to run marathons and ultras and the only way I could "postpone" the point where the cramps start is more endurance training.  I need to add, I sweat a lot more than the norm, and that's probably why at a certain point there is simply not enough electrolytes left in my body, hence cramp.

     

    Supplements like Mg, Ca, K, Na does help, but for me it was never a guarantee not to get cramps.

     

    Your situation sound different/weird compared to mine, cramping after only 5-7km riding!

     

    I suggest keep making some more expensive pee (by popping the vitamins) and go and try again in a few days.  If the same thing happen again, off to the Dr you go ... :)

     

    All I can say is sterkte, despite a lot of different advice I was never able to permanently solve the cramping problem.

  10. Close the thread.

     

    But not before more cycling industry communication bashing:

     

    The reality is that not everyone is 100% up to date on their customer communication strategy. (Doing this effectively is almost a full time job)

    Bicycle shops seem to be severely lacking in this department tho.

    There are numerous industries where it's the same. I had a supplier the other day, who had most excellent comms, but their Quality was crap, and in the end they got chased off site, and the client got their deposit back.

     

    Yah, you need both, good quality & service.  One without the other is no good ...

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