popcorn_skollie Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 The Tmars mechanical dropper. 110mm travel. Can you get the service kit? http://i.imgur.com/ibyUG4Q.jpg So its been 18 months using this thing. Never took it off the bike since I installed.Not one service. I figured I'd do that once its starts giving issues. Which it did... The last few rides I noticed some side to side play. Then on Saturday. Poof!Side to side play turned into a full rotation of the stanchion. Massive amount of twisting till you somehow manage to click it in one of the 3 settings. Which minimized the play but still a bit of a nuisance. Turns out the 2 plastic guides inside were destroyed. These guides slot into the stanchion and travel along a groove inside the actual post. Acting as kind of a washer between the two. Its purpose. To keep the stanchion from twisting while moving the post up and down. If When they break. You'll need to buy the service kit to replace them.But importing them takes forever and they too will break eventually. http://i.imgur.com/Ge4kjqO.jpg So here's what I done... Fashioned some home made replacements out of aluminium. Just a little grinding and sanding to get them to size and presto http://i.imgur.com/TlINAWY.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/5Is7Ttn.jpg Since I stripped the thing I noticed one or 2 other things as well.First of which. How ridiculously simple this contraption it. There's no way you would struggle to put this thing back together. Its pretty straight forward and anyone with common sense can throw it back together. Secondly. The amount of mud, grime and sand that gets in here is astonishing. Well, at least 18 months worth. It mixes with the grease and cakes everythin into a gritty soggy mess.I recomend opening this thing at least every 3-6 months for a good clean and re grease. Get rid of the plastic spring cover too. Its suppose to protect the ferrous spring from rust and damaged but what it actually does is collect mud and moisture allowing your spring to be exposed to moisture constantly. I noticed some slight surface rust on my spring because of this. Not enough of it to worry though. Managed to polish most of it off. Its also a pretty simple spring and a non-ferrous replacement should be easy to get just about anywhere. Moving on. Cleaned everything. Re greased everything with copper slip and everything was back to normal. The post functions better that ever and there is no twist or side to side play.A mechanic made the guides for me. Took him a while to get them fitting snug with enough tolerance to allow free movement. If anyone else wants the same cheap as chips mod and service to their Tmars/Forca dropper. Please let me know and I'll forward you his details. Skott5, Kalahari Vegmot, Odinson and 8 others 11
Bomberman Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 Hey guys, Im in the market for a new dropper since my reverbe gave me the finger... So Im considering either the rapide R or the Lyne. What would you guys recommend?
Meezo Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 Hey guys, Im in the market for a new dropper since my reverbe gave me the finger... So Im considering either the rapide R or the Lyne. What would you guys recommend? check classifieds, Lyne got a v2, rapide we still waiting a proper test by Kiwi and all of products he sells is yet to disappointed a living soul
Martin PJ Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 http://i.imgur.com/ibyUG4Q.jpg So its been 18 months using this thing. Never took it off the bike since I installed.Not one service. I figured I'd do that once its starts giving issues. Which it did... The last few rides I noticed some side to side play. Then on Saturday. Poof!Side to side play turned into a full rotation of the stanchion. Massive amount of twisting till you somehow manage to click it in one of the 3 settings. Which minimized the play but still a bit of a nuisance. Turns out the 2 plastic guides inside were destroyed. These guides slot into the stanchion and travel along a groove inside the actual post. Acting as kind of a washer between the two. Its purpose. To keep the stanchion from twisting while moving the post up and down. If When they break. You'll need to buy the service kit to replace them.But importing them takes forever and they too will break eventually. http://i.imgur.com/Ge4kjqO.jpg So here's what I done... Fashioned some home made replacements out of aluminium. Just a little grinding and sanding to get them to size and presto http://i.imgur.com/TlINAWY.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/5Is7Ttn.jpg Since I stripped the thing I noticed one or 2 other things as well.First of which. How ridiculously simple this contraption it. There's no way you would struggle to put this thing back together. Its pretty straight forward and anyone with common sense can throw it back together. Secondly. The amount of mud, grime and sand that gets in here is astonishing. Well, at least 18 months worth. It mixes with the grease and cakes everythin into a gritty soggy mess.I recomend opening this thing at least every 3-6 months for a good clean and re grease. Get rid of the plastic spring cover too. Its suppose to protect the ferrous spring from rust and damaged but what it actually does is collect mud and moisture allowing your spring to be exposed to moisture constantly. I noticed some slight surface rust on my spring because of this. Not enough of it to worry though. Managed to polish most of it off. Its also a pretty simple spring and a non-ferrous replacement should be easy to get just about anywhere. Moving on. Cleaned everything. Re greased everything with copper slip and everything was back to normal. The post functions better that ever and there is no twist or side to side play.A mechanic made the guides for me. Took him a while to get them fitting snug with enough tolerance to allow free movement. If anyone else wants the same cheap as chips mod and service to their Tmars/Forca dropper. Please let me know and I'll forward you his details. I have two of these seatposts, but stop using them because the side to side play became a bit annoying. I did order some service kits from a guy in Israel on eBay, I used them up too. A mate of mine was going to look at making a service kit for these, maybe use some material that was a bit harder wearing. Would be interested in trying your mod piece of kit.
Dexter-morgan Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 I have a good contact with Tube laset cutting maybe I will make one.
Grey Hubs Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 check classifieds, Lyne got a v2, rapide we still waiting a proper test by Kiwi and all of products he sells is yet to disappointed a living soulI second that vote. Lyne still working well! Time will tell but happy with mine so far. At the price you can't go wrong...
BaGearA Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Anyone know where i can find A 31.6 -> 30.9 mm shim for real cheap. My coke can one is still working great but yesterday i had my second ride cut short cause it slipped and pushed the shim way down the seat tube. And obviously this won't happen with A shim that has A thick lip. Anything under 10$ with shipping SAPO is fine but i don't/can't fork out too much Cheers
T-Bob Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Anyone know where i can find A 31.6 -> 30.9 mm shim for real cheap. My coke can one is still working great but yesterday i had my second ride cut short cause it slipped and pushed the shim way down the seat tube. And obviously this won't happen with A shim that has A thick lip. Anything under 10$ with shipping SAPO is fine but i don't/can't fork out too much CheersLyne sell theirs for about R100
Bizkit031 Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 I.E. Seat tube = 31.6 mmSeatpost = 30.9 mm Rapide have one for about R70
BaGearA Posted May 3, 2017 Posted May 3, 2017 Lyne sell theirs for about R100damn , didn't even know they have. Will get in contact with them. Thank you Sir
splat Posted July 4, 2017 Posted July 4, 2017 Dropper posts in the Tour de France Mavic specs Custom KS seatposts on neutral bikes so that a rider can adjust saddle height on the fly http://cdn.media.cyclingnews.com/2017/07/04/1/mavic_1_1499090276978_bilyqb53pick_630_80_670.jpg http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/dropper-posts-in-the-tour-de-france-mavic-specs-them-on-neutral-bikes/ Dexter-morgan, Hairy and bologniusmaximus 3
Piston ZA Posted June 28, 2018 Posted June 28, 2018 Some advice please. I need to get a dropper post for my new bike. Preferably internal routing, and would be a size 31.6. The Lyne Components dropper would be perfect and be in my budget. The shortest dropper Lyne have is the 120mm (apparently the 31.6 x 100mm has been discontinued). Looking at their sizing charts, the minimum distance needed between the seat clamp and saddle rail is 183mm for it to fit. Now the problem. I have measured my bike and I have 170mm between seat clamp and saddle rail. The 100mm would have fitted, but not the 120mm dropper. Other makes that have 31.6 x 100mm seem to be far and few between, or beyond my budget at the moment. So far, these appear to be my options: 1. Get the 30.9 x 100mm internal dropper, with a shim (this appears to be the most sensible), but what are the drawbacks to this? 2. Cut the seat tube down about 15mm (bike is second hand so won't affect any warranties, and I have seen this been done before). 3. Anything other options or advice? TIA
Vetplant Posted June 28, 2018 Posted June 28, 2018 Some advice please. I need to get a dropper post for my new bike. Preferably internal routing, and would be a size 31.6. The Lyne Components dropper would be perfect and be in my budget. The shortest dropper Lyne have is the 120mm (apparently the 31.6 x 100mm has been discontinued). Looking at their sizing charts, the minimum distance needed between the seat clamp and saddle rail is 183mm for it to fit. Now the problem. I have measured my bike and I have 170mm between seat clamp and saddle rail. The 100mm would have fitted, but not the 120mm dropper. Other makes that have 31.6 x 100mm seem to be far and few between, or beyond my budget at the moment. So far, these appear to be my options: 1. Get the 30.9 x 100mm internal dropper, with a shim (this appears to be the most sensible), but what are the drawbacks to this? 2. Cut the seat tube down about 15mm (bike is second hand so won't affect any warranties, and I have seen this been done before). 3. Anything other options or advice? TIACutting the tube down the required 15mm is the right solution in this case. Check some Youtube videos on how to do this the right way and you would have a proper installation. Putting a shim in just feels like a bit of a bodge.
GrahamS2 Posted June 28, 2018 Posted June 28, 2018 Some advice please. I need to get a dropper post for my new bike. Preferably internal routing, and would be a size 31.6. The Lyne Components dropper would be perfect and be in my budget. The shortest dropper Lyne have is the 120mm (apparently the 31.6 x 100mm has been discontinued). Looking at their sizing charts, the minimum distance needed between the seat clamp and saddle rail is 183mm for it to fit. Now the problem. I have measured my bike and I have 170mm between seat clamp and saddle rail. The 100mm would have fitted, but not the 120mm dropper. Other makes that have 31.6 x 100mm seem to be far and few between, or beyond my budget at the moment. So far, these appear to be my options: 1. Get the 30.9 x 100mm internal dropper, with a shim (this appears to be the most sensible), but what are the drawbacks to this? 2. Cut the seat tube down about 15mm (bike is second hand so won't affect any warranties, and I have seen this been done before). 3. Anything other options or advice? TIAI have the Brand X dropper from CRC, identical to the Lyne product. It's possible to add a 13mm stopper to the internal piston that would simply prevent it from rising to full extension (essentially making it a 107mm dropper). That could work for you? Piston ZA 1
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