How to build a MonsterCross Bike 101

[Zebra]

I did that 2006 Epic. How did you know to avoid doing 2008?

 

The good news is that rivnuts are easy to fix 

 

I would guess that the only shock you'll be able to fit is that exact Spesh shock. Much as I like the bikes they tend to have a thing for designing their own standards.

after doing three consecutive Epics, 3 years running, trust me, I needed a break! But yes, I 'dodged' 2008!

 

Noted re only using Spez shock, will start searching now.

 

Regarding Rivnuts, can you tell me the 'easy fix'? My plan to tighten them, but NOT then use them, is to slip a butter knife or similar under the head of the bolt, apply light tension whilst using a allen key to turn the bolt in through the 'now-captive' nut, until it pullas tight against the inside of the down-tube...but I am guessing you have another solution!

[Zebra]

Thinking back to that full suspension single speed gravel bike I once built, now that was an abomination if ever there was one, just 2 rides and it was abandoned [emoji15]

can you tell me WHAT about it did not work for you, since I am considering doing the same, but NO front shocks, just a near-locked-out rear shock...

[NotSoBigBen]

can you tell me WHAT about it did not work for you, since I am considering doing the same, but NO front shocks, just a near-locked-out rear shock...

The biggest issue was that the brain no longer worked so it bobbed up and down ... it was only a bit of an experiment so I didn't really bother to replace it with something to make it rigid. Oh and it was single speed [emoji2957] .... Your idea will probably be way more usable that's for sure!

 

Now this bike was a hoot! 80mm fork, MTB tyres.

 

We were camping near Breedtsnek for 2 weeks, I rode up and down there nearly every day ... yes with those mechanical disks and I survived!

[Grease_Monkey]

I have a very good condition SPECIALIZED SOFT-TAIL ally S-Works 26er that I would like to convert to a monstercross/gravel grinder.

 

I have many questions:

1. With rear shock already removed, how easy/difficult is it to ‘lock out’ the rear triangle, and CREATE a hard tail?

2. would I be able to fit gravel Tyres on 29 hoops to the bike.

3. If not then I have a few pairs of 26 wheels I could use...

4. Which means it would be more of a MTB with drops, than a gravel grinder, I know...

5. The Medium frame would work well, after measuring, allowing for drops, since I also have a Large alloy Spez. S-works, and I could ride theMedium comfortably, with drops fitted....

6. Should mention the Large Spez is already fitted out as an e-bike, so will not use that frame.

All suggestions welcome, the frame really is in tip-top condition...

Cheers

Chris

 

 

I also have an older Epic (2006) in my garage that already has slicks on it (well more touring / commuting tyres). I also have a Shimano Tiagra 2x10 hydro groupset from a gravel build where it didn't quite work. I am going to be putting drops and the Tiagra groupset on the Epic to make a monster cross commuter bike to ride to work (new job close to home with a shower at work  ).

 

I am going to be keeping the front and rear suspension (just going to set it up hard), mostly because I am not planning on spending a single cent over and above gear cables and drop bars. But also because I feel like spending money on such an old bike is just not worth it, no matter the condition. The tyres I will be using are 26X1.8" Schwalbe Marathon tyres - heavy, and not tubeless compatible - but for my commuting purposes they will be perfect. 

 

Will post some pics once done. But that will only be mid May.

[NotSoBigBen]

 

Ready for a coffee ride tomorrow [emoji41]

 

For the cycling 'nerds' some details ...

 

SSG - Single Speed Gravel

 

Frame - 2008 Bianchi Oetsi 26" MTB frame

Fork - Mosso rigid Alu

Shift levers - SRAM, the left shifter is US but the brake works

Crank - Truvative Stylo, also around 2010 - the right pedal is stuck in but luckily it's in ok nick

Drive train details - 42x22, to get that 'magic gear' to look good!

Tyres - CST Traveller 700x38, non tubeless but running them tubeless ...

Wheels - 29" MTB definitely not a 'set', front XT hub with some generic rim, rear a non series Shimano wheel

Brake calipers - Tektro Novela mechanical

 

A real mish mash ...

[emoji41]

Edited April 29, 2021 by NotSoBigBen

[DJuice]

Ready for a coffee ride tomorrow [emoji41]

Enjoy the bike, the ride and the coffee.

 

She looks great.

Would like to be a flea to here to comments of your spray buddy when you pitch with a new frame.

[CAAD4]

Sjoe Oom, that looks factory. The DJ would dig it...

Edited May 1, 2021 by CAAD4

[NotSoBigBen]

Enjoy the bike, the ride and the coffee.

 

She looks great.

Would like to be a flea to here to comments of your spray buddy when you pitch with a new frame.

He's a big real Afrikaans old toppie, the type of guy you can call at midnight!

 

He just shook his head when I said I wanted to keep these small bits original ...

[DJuice]

He's a big real Afrikaans old toppie, the type of guy you can call at midnight!

 

He just shook his head when I said I wanted to keep these small bits original ...

That Bianchi head badge must be the best in cycling!

As a child starting cycling, in town was one Bianchi and that head badge is what I recall, before I get to know the history.

 

Even considered it as a tattoo.

Edited May 1, 2021 by DJuice

[Zebra]

@100Tours

 

Regarding Rivnuts, can you tell me the 'easy fix'? My plan to tighten them, but NOT then use them, is to slip a butter knife or similar under the head of the bolt, apply light tension whilst using a allen key to turn the bolt in through the 'now-captive' nut, until it pulls tight against the inside of the down-tube...but I am guessing you have another solution!

 

...Ok, butter knife, slim feeler-gauge solution did not work as planned......any insights as to what I might try?

 

Thanks!

Chris

[missioner]

@100Tours

 

Regarding Rivnuts, can you tell me the 'easy fix'? My plan to tighten them, but NOT then use them, is to slip a butter knife or similar under the head of the bolt, apply light tension whilst using a allen key to turn the bolt in through the 'now-captive' nut, until it pulls tight against the inside of the down-tube...but I am guessing you have another solution!

 

...Ok, butter knife, slim feeler-gauge solution did not work as planned......any insights as to what I might try?

 

Thanks!

Chris

Get a high tensile bolt and nut that fit into the rivnut. Thread the nut halfway down the bolt, then screw the bolt into the rivnut till the nut buts up against it.

 

Now the important part, hold the bolt with a spanner and tighten the nut against the rivnut. Use force enough to over come the friction but try not to break the bolt off inside the rivnut.

 

If that doesn't work go buy the rivnut insertion tool and some suitable replacement rivnuts, drill out the old ones and replace them with me ones.

 

If buying the tool is not an option phone a few LBS's till you find one that has the tool and can do the repairs.

[Zebra]

Get a high tensile bolt and nut that fit into the rivnut. Thread the nut halfway down the bolt, then screw the bolt into the rivnut till the nut buts up against it.

 

Now the important part, hold the bolt with a spanner and tighten the nut against the rivnut.

 

Use force enough to over come the friction but try not to break the bolt off inside the rivnut.

 

If that doesn't work go buy the rivnut insertion tool and some suitable replacement rivnuts, drill out the old ones and replace them with me ones.

 

If buying the tool is not an option phone a few LBS's till you find one that has the tool and can do the repairs.

Thanks; will try this this week ahead, and revert back; appreciate you writing with THREE alternatives, too!

Chris

[MORNE]

So I came across this (bottom) pic over the weekend and i'll admit it has me very curious.... 

My mtb's frame/geo looks VERY similar and this doesn't look at all wrong imo. 

 

a 100-120mm susp fork or keep it rigid?

then, where what how ito drop bars for something like this if you please?

Edited May 10, 2021 by MORNE

[BogusOne]

So I came across this (bottom) pic over the weekend and i'll admit it has me very curious.... 

My mtb's frame/geo looks VERY similar and this doesn't look at all wrong imo. 

 

a 100-120mm susp fork or keep it rigid?

then, where what how ito drop bars for something like this if you please?

 

Depends on where and what you want to ride but I would keep it rigid. Then you need to decide if you want to keep it singlespeed or slap some gears on it. What is your budget for the transformation as you would need to decide on brakes as well... Cable discs, hydraulic, or cable hydraulic.... see it opens a whole can of worms... BUT its a lekke road to walk with them worms 

Im just waiting on my cranks then Ill have something in ti to post here 

[MORNE]

Depends on where and what you want to ride but I would keep it rigid. Then you need to decide if you want to keep it singlespeed or slap some gears on it. What is your budget for the transformation as you would need to decide on brakes as well... Cable discs, hydraulic, or cable hydraulic.... see it opens a whole can of worms... BUT its a lekke road to walk with them worms 

Im just waiting on my cranks then Ill have something in ti to post here 

my budget usually ends up in the same place i throw all the invoices....

[NotSoBigBen]

Not sure where I'm going with this 'mullet' thing yet ... currently 27.5x2.4 rear and 29x2.25 front

I have a 27.5x3.0 to try and a mate is dropping off a 29x2.4 later, will see if the 3.0 first in the rear, I'll fit the 2.4 front anyway

Also has a derailleur hanger issue so probably SS