Kranswurm Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Okay, so - I have an opportunity to buy a Honda XR500R for a really good amount of coin. Like, stupid cheap. Brand new internals, clutch etc etc and owned by my mate's dad. It'll be used for commuting and the odd outride. Thoughts?I had the XL500S ,my mate had the XR500R.Both solid but the XR was torture on the tar.Not meant for it.Ridiculously small tank as well.Not a good commuter unless its on dirt
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 GAH. Just heard it's not registered. Never been reg'd, either.
Hackster Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Okay, so I'm back on a bike. Found a 2007 BMW F650GS that was in a barn for 10 years. Having a lot of fun with it. One of the best things is that compared to my bicyles, it's pretty cheap to service/fix. It's my first bike after a 20 year break so I've got a bit of catching up to do. Quick question, why can't I convert my wheels into tubeless the same way I did on the MTB? I've just fitted new Mitas E07s and the thought that they're 'tubed' is giving me a headache... RocknRolla and Hairy 2
patches Posted August 19, 2019 Posted August 19, 2019 Okay, so I'm back on a bike. Found a 2007 BMW F650GS that was in a barn for 10 years. Having a lot of fun with it. One of the best things is that compared to my bicyles, it's pretty cheap to service/fix. It's my first bike after a 20 year break so I've got a bit of catching up to do. Quick question, why can't I convert my wheels into tubeless the same way I did on the MTB? I've just fitted new Mitas E07s and the thought that they're 'tubed' is giving me a headache... What size wheels on the GS? If they're 18", 19" or 21" you may be able to fit a Nuetech Tubliss system. I run these on both my bikes (21" front, 18" rear). They're basically the same concept as Schwalbe Procore. In fact I think Schwalbe stole the idea from Nuetech. Dual chambers: a high-pressure inner to act as a giant rimlock and protect the rim from bumps, and a low pressure outer, which can be run at ridiculously low pressures (even flat in emergencies) to allow more traction. Technically speaking they're not for road use, but I have done over 7000km on one of my sets. The key is just just not to run the crazy low pressures in the outer chamber. I keep mine at about 18psi unless I'm in sand. They can be run with or without sealant too. Coming form an MTB background I went the sealant route. Anyway, have a look. They're the closest thing to an MTB tubeless conversion I have found for offroad bikes, and as a bonus they don't require tubeless tyres. Normal offroad tyres work with them. Hackster 1
davetapson Posted August 20, 2019 Posted August 20, 2019 (edited) Okay, so - I have an opportunity to buy a Honda XR500R for a really good amount of coin. Like, stupid cheap. Brand new internals, clutch etc etc and owned by my mate's dad. It'll be used for commuting and the odd outride. Thoughts? I love 'em, but it's from my era. Is R road legal tho'? It's not a L? Edited August 20, 2019 by davetapson
Gnarly Posted August 20, 2019 Posted August 20, 2019 The lighties race weapon for the next season which starts in Oct here. Will replace all the decals when new ones arrive, back to #83. patches, Zatopek, IceCreamMan and 10 others 13
RocknRolla Posted August 20, 2019 Posted August 20, 2019 Okay, so I'm back on a bike. Found a 2007 BMW F650GS that was in a barn for 10 years. Having a lot of fun with it. One of the best things is that compared to my bicyles, it's pretty cheap to service/fix. It's my first bike after a 20 year break so I've got a bit of catching up to do. Quick question, why can't I convert my wheels into tubeless the same way I did on the MTB? I've just fitted new Mitas E07s and the thought that they're 'tubed' is giving me a headache... Congratulations.Tell more about the bike? km's? extra's colour? Some peeps have done ghetto tubeless ssing sikaflex or some such. tape the spoke holes over, and apply something that seals airtight. I have been running tubes on my bike, and the only time punctures ever become an issue is close to the end of tire life.
davetapson Posted August 20, 2019 Posted August 20, 2019 How'm I going to squeeze this into the garage without the missus noticing... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2280599657&tm=email&et=45&mt=539CE1D7-7516-41CE-822F-DA08A48588AB BSG 1
patches Posted August 20, 2019 Posted August 20, 2019 How'm I going to squeeze this into the garage without the missus noticing... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=2280599657&tm=email&et=45&mt=539CE1D7-7516-41CE-822F-DA08A48588AB This may help https://www.bunnings.co.nz/monarch-plastic-drop-sheet-2-6x-3-6m-blue_p01670110 Cover it up and tell her it's a surprise! (which isn't a lie) But yeah, DRZ400's and DR650's are like the Hiluxs of the NZ dualsport scene. Easy to fix, cheap to run, loads of aftermarket parts & accessories, and they just keep going. A good friend of mine sold his Husaberg FE450 to get a DR650. He said he has hardly looked back. So yeah, can't go wrong with a DRZ400 or DR650. Oh, and for an added bonus, you'll save heaps on insurance. Just yesterday I was shopping around for insurance on the Husky 450. One insurer (Protecta) offered comprehensive insurance for $103pm ($1250 excess) based on an agreed value of $10,000. If I simply changed the bike model to a DR or DRZ (but kept the agreed replacement value at $10,000) the premium drops to $47pm with a $750 excess. This seemed ridiculous, so I called them. They explained that a Husky FE is a "Class 4" bike, which carries the highest premium rate. So yeah, a DR/DRZ is smart move in many ways! *note you can use the above reasoning when trying to convince your wife Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and dirtypot 2
davetapson Posted August 21, 2019 Posted August 21, 2019 So yeah, a DR/DRZ is smart move in many ways! *note you can use the above reasoning when trying to convince your wife This is a damn fine price for NZ. Given the choice, I'd lean towards 650 just due to less 'buzzing' when riding longer distances. Currently I work just about in walking distance from home. Need to get a new job out of walking/bus lane reach, then I 'have' to buy a commuter... BSG 1
patches Posted August 21, 2019 Posted August 21, 2019 This is a damn fine price for NZ. Given the choice, I'd lean towards 650 just due to less 'buzzing' when riding longer distances. Currently I work just about in walking distance from home. Need to get a new job out of walking/bus lane reach, then I 'have' to buy a commuter... Yup, $4,500 isn't bad at all. From the looks of the pics the guy has been riding out at Muriwai. Once on a ride out there I met a guy with a DRZ that looked almost identical to that one. I wonder if it's the same guy?! As for the DR650 (or Bushpig as they call it in Aus) it seems to be the "lightweight" adventurer bike of choice in these parts. In SA the adventure scene is all about big BMW GS's and such. The humble kiwi takes a far more practical and simplistic approach and loads up a DR650 and treks all over the place. The guy from Enduro Cross-Training has a side channel on Adventure riding in Aus. He has a few good vid on a DR650 budget adventure bike build. Worth a look: As for the commute... well.... I used to live 2.5km from work and would walk some days, ride others, hahaha! The fact that bikes can use bus lanes adds to the benefit. I just wish bikes were allowed to use the NX express lanes on SH1.
forkie Posted August 21, 2019 Posted August 21, 2019 GAH. Just heard it's not registered. Never been reg'd, either. ?? that just means less fines come through the post... Let's Ride, DirtyFrank and IceCreamMan 3
IceCreamMan Posted August 21, 2019 Posted August 21, 2019 This is a damn fine price for NZ. Given the choice, I'd lean towards 650 just due to less 'buzzing' when riding longer distances. Currently I work just about in walking distance from home. Need to get a new job out of walking/bus lane reach, then I 'have' to buy a commuter... I had a DR650, amazing bike. A lil agricultural but awesome reliability and dependability. The 400 more hooligan and probably the pick of the 2 for everything but trans continental riding but it is more maintenance intensive and liquid cooling adds things that can go wrong. for many years I only rode single cylinder motorbikes after superbikes and loved the simplicity of them.
davetapson Posted August 21, 2019 Posted August 21, 2019 (edited) Yup, $4,500 isn't bad at all. From the looks of the pics the guy has been riding out at Muriwai. Once on a ride out there I met a guy with a DRZ that looked almost identical to that one. I wonder if it's the same guy?! As for the DR650 (or Bushpig as they call it in Aus) it seems to be the "lightweight" adventurer bike of choice in these parts. In SA the adventure scene is all about big BMW GS's and such. The humble kiwi takes a far more practical and simplistic approach and loads up a DR650 and treks all over the place. The guy from Enduro Cross-Training has a side channel on Adventure riding in Aus. He has a few good vid on a DR650 budget adventure bike build. Worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58vB-5urcJI As for the commute... well.... I used to live 2.5km from work and would walk some days, ride others, hahaha! The fact that bikes can use bus lanes adds to the benefit. I just wish bikes were allowed to use the NX express lanes on SH1.That's a damn fine video/series...That NX Express route is soooo tempting. Figure you've got to do it once in your life... [emoji848] Edited August 21, 2019 by davetapson
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