Post your woodwork here

[Amberdrake]

LOL... sounds like I'm not the only one with an OCD kick that hurts. I did some stone tiling for the first time over the weekend. It turned out really nice (if I may say so myself), and the missus is super chuffed with the end product but my tying in of the stone pattern wasn't perfect on the first few tiles so now I'm thinking of pulling them off and redoing them. The missus is convinced I've lost my mind for worrying about something so minor but it will bother me every time I look at them Guess it's a good excuse to stay out the kitchen

I actually like these defects on home jobs these days.

It shows I learned something while working, sometimes I avoid ripping it out with one simple thought "Contractor would have done worse or charged crazy school fees".

I figure few years down the line Ill have to redo some things again and I can do better with that run.

Eg downstairs floors getting redone soonish

[Hairy]

after you have done the cut-out for the sink .... give the cut edge a decent coating of exterior varnish will you!

[porqui]

When I do cut outs on kitchen tops I use a hand circular saw on the straights and only do the corners with a jigsaw

 

I rub a good coating of silicon on the cut surfaces.

 

I never use the clamps that come with the sink but make sure the mating surfaces are clean and cleaned with acetone. Put down a generous bead of silicon - wait 10 min and place sink. Put cut out on top of sink and then 3 to 4 cement blocks on top. Leave to cure for 24 HOURS.

I have never had a sink pop up.

[Long Wheel Base]

Job done, Buyer and estate agent happy. Flip I worked my backside off to get it done. Was on my ace and the full 3600x600 board is freaking heavy and awkward to carry. Especially as this is an upstairs unit. After getting the first piece up to the entrance and realising it was too long to get in I had to take it back down and make a plan to cut it in the parking lot. Wasn't ideal but luckily I was able to make a plan with a small grass patch around a fire hydrant to cut it. Ended up replacing the whole kitchen. Used all but about 500mm from the 2nd board.

Bought the counter tops from board master(R380 per 3600x600). WOW that place is massive, they have A LOT of boards.

Attorney just called and they will proceed with the transfer today so by COB today this place should be off my name.

 

WRT the jigsaw, luckily my bosch didn't skip a beat. Used a circular saw to cut the straight stuff and the jigsaw for the finer work. I love my 18V lithion Ion stuff from bosch and makita. Makes these kinda jobs so much easier.

[Long Wheel Base]

When I do cut outs on kitchen tops I use a hand circular saw on the straights and only do the corners with a jigsaw

 

I rub a good coating of silicon on the cut surfaces.

 

I never use the clamps that come with the sink but make sure the mating surfaces are clean and cleaned with acetone. Put down a generous bead of silicon - wait 10 min and place sink. Put cut out on top of sink and then 3 to 4 cement blocks on top. Leave to cure for 24 HOURS.

I have never had a sink pop up.

I used silicon under the sink as well as the clamps.

I put woodoc50 on the cut surfaces.

[Hairy]

lovely to watch

[mon-goose]

a new respect for the amount of work that goes into those canoes 

[carrera4s]

My first attempt to use tapered sliding dovetails:  I used them to attach the shelves to the sides of my son's friend's "book shelve desk".

 

The raw pine photos shows a test piece fit into one of the actual sides.  The middle photo shows how far it slides in by hand.  The last 25 mm needs a few light taps from a mallet.

 

Pretty chuffed at how easy it actually is.  Just a pity no-one actually sees my "master skills" in the final product. 

Edited August 17, 2017 by carrera4s

[Hairy]

you "need" a lovely low profile LED lighting strip recessed into that top of that desk vs the bulky T5 option

[carrera4s]

you "need" a lovely low profile LED lighting strip recessed into that top of that desk vs the bulky T5 option

 

That was my plan, but the customer wanted this option.

[Hairy]

That was my plan, but the customer wanted this option.

clients ... who needs them!

[Capricorn]

some input needed: chisel and plan edges chipping off.

 

I spend quite a bit of time sharpening my chisels and the blade of this one particular  No 3 plane that i resurrected. Two grades of diamond stones with a final polish on an 8000 grit waterstone. Of late however, I've been noting chipping of the tips. Reminds me of the odd occassion I hit a hidden nail or screw. But I haven't hit anything metallic. There's no denting, or bending over. Just chipping.

 

I'm beginning to wonder if the tip is too sharp. But given I'm following the as-made angle of the various bevels with no micro-bevel, i'm beginning to wonder if the material is too brittle.

 

The chisel in question is blue plastic handled Stanley set I bought a very long time ago, and the previously mentioned resurrected stanley No 3. I have a set of narex chisels that I sharpen exactly the same way,  but i haven't use it recently to see if they suffer the same fate.

Edited August 20, 2017 by Capricorn

[Eddy Gordo]

Def sounds like its too sharp. Maybe try using the narex ones and see how they fair.

[Capricorn]

Def sounds like its too sharp. Maybe try using the narex ones and see how they fair.

 

The thing is, I don't think they too sharp. They feel sharp for sure, but not surgical blade sharp if that makes sense. So i was a bit surprised they chipped. In fact, i've been sharpening them till they feel like the blade that shipped with the Lie-nielse no62 low angle plane. That thing is silly sharp!

 

random stuff: handy guide to identifying your stanley bailey handplane.

turn's out, that resurrected handplane is a type 19.

 

https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/

Edited August 20, 2017 by Capricorn

[Capricorn]

and then I come across a Paul Sellers blog posting on the matter of sharpening. I like this guy. 

 

 

 

GOING AGAINST THE GODS – MYTH BUSTING

 

Myth busting #1

Forget micro bevels and guides and get on to real woodworking.

Guides can be good as training wheels but I believe you should get on with the freehand practice asap.

For three decades now woodworkers have been duped into believing that the micro bevel is superior to a long, convex bevel. Back in the 70’s many books written as curriculum by school woodworking teachers taught that a bevel of 25-degrees was optimal, followed by a refinement micro- or secondary bevel at 30-degrees.  Of course it wasn’t true, but people believed it because it actually seemed sensible. The problem with the micro bevel was the weakness of the edge.

The elongated convex bevel on the other hand has many advantages obvious to any craftsmen that developed it, making chisels and planes far more effective and versatile. The micro bevel added no value to what already existed for centuries but it substituted for developing skill in sharpening. Adding the guides slowed down what only takes an hour or less to master.

 

The method I use is a non-machine method that creates a convex bevel edge like this in a matter of seconds and will do just about anything I want it to. The method? Oh, it’s around 200-300 years old.

Don’t take my word for it. Try it. I’ll be posting more on how I sharpen and hone my planes, chisels and so on shortly.

Myth busting #2

Forget flattening water stones – hollow stones give perfect convex bevels

No sharpening stone needs to be flat. For three decades woodworkers have been duped into believing that stones must be flat, but if you sharpen on an elongated convex camber the stone can hollow all it wants because you want the convex and the hollowed stone creates exactly what you want. Did you never stop to ask yourself why craftsmen’s stones of old were hollow? I mean all of them? They weren’t stupid for 200 years and then we came along with our better ways and threw out what was working perfectly because someone wrote an article. They only needed to sharpen and hone a convex bevel. I never understood why their seemed such an intent to keep flattening stones. All those gurus of woodworking (little more than salesmen really) out their selling honing water stones and then came the flattening stones and the whole ritual of sharpening and then the whole ritual of method.

You can use hollowed stones and flat stones to create a convex bevel easily in seconds. I use diamond plates and have done for nearly two decades and did so because they also stay dead flat. The main advantage is no water baths and mess.

 

Think about it.

[porqui]

Did you by any chance grind them on a wheel first.

Chisel edges go brittle if overheated. Blade metal must never go blue even just a small spot if they do you re grind and you stay light on the pressure and keep moving the blade from side to side.

I have the same chisels (can't get them anymore) and do not have that problem.

No such thing as a TOO sharp chisel.

Edited August 20, 2017 by porqui