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Posted

Those nasty perfed steel reinforcing plates really spoil this no end. It's a shoddy and cheap workman's solution to a nice engineering vision. Surely there were more elegant solutions?

 

Aren't they a de-facto method of truss construction here? Quick & easy. Days of quality workmanship and doing a job elegantly are lone gone.

 

I see lots of roofs from the inside, shoddy workmanship abounds, on all fronts!  besides the carpentry, disgusting and unsafe electrical / alarm system / plumbing work . Generally its that no one can see the mess that people do it that way, and get away with it.

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Posted (edited)

Those nasty perfed steel reinforcing plates really spoil this no end. It's a shoddy and cheap workman's solution to a nice engineering vision. Surely there were more elegant solutions?

Agree with you there, I think that they wanted to show their product and abilities (they manufacture roof trusses), it's in front of their reception. When they do mine, I'll probably have plates cut and powder coated to bolt the trusses together. Edited by Stretched@Birth
Posted

Couldn't find the lace making bobbins I turned, but this is what they look like. About 12 cm long and 3 - 6 mm in diameter. They are used to spool the thread on and then to weave the lace into a pattern. Intricate isn't the word.

Oh wow. Ok now I see.

I wonder if it is possible to turn such a little thing on a regular lathe?

I suppose one would have to attach each end of the little ebony stick to some sort of auxiliary piece of wood in order to get it to hold in the lathe.

Posted

Agree with you there, I think that they wanted to show their product and abilities (they manufacture roof trusses), it's in front of their reception. When they do mine, I'll probably have plates cut and powder coated to bolt the trusses together.

that would be another solution that would be far more elegant... 

Posted (edited)

Oh wow. Ok now I see.

I wonder if it is possible to turn such a little thing on a regular lathe?

I suppose one would have to attach each end of the little ebony stick to some sort of auxiliary piece of wood in order to get it to hold in the lathe.

Yes, the valuable wood is glued to something cheap and the lathes used are normally small metal lathes that cannot cut lengths much above 200mm or so, but very high precision.

Edited by DJR
Posted (edited)

The below pics show some of the complexity of the design. The king post sits on the top of the arch, not sure though if you'd straighten out the arch if it would line up with the "top" sides.

 

bc78cf0a504d5d5c26bc885d31c18585.jpg

 

fc8846ded51799d3fbeccc8ed978789f.jpg

 

if for your home, perhaps request that the bottom chord (curved portion) is one continuous laminated beams that traverses the full span of the roof space. Designed correctly, you will need fewer of them, and it would require no webs and none of those hideous truss plates. Will require a jig to construct the curved glulam, but its doable without special tools.

 

http://www.westernwoodstructures.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/_lemay_curved_glulam.jpg

 

http://www.materialsfordesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Ceiling-of-Glulams-3-10-1-13-1.jpeg

 

little vid on how to make one in less than 4min ;)

 

Edited by Capricorn
Posted

Hey guys, I know this is going to show my naivety here,

 

but can this be right and if so please explain the massive price differences

 

No. 4 Planner

 

attachicon.gifWPLANE-004_2.JPG

 

Ardendorf no name brand special @ R175

 

Hardware Centre : Stanley @ R3800 & Veritas @ R5275

Super rip-off!

 

The Veritas is an absolutely beautiful tool, but at R5k seriously overpriced (online they retails at CAN $ 232)

 

The Stanley Sweetheart range is expensive and even those need truing and at that price ridiculously overpriced.

 

A Stanley #4 I can get you for R580- R700 and I live far from cities.

Posted (edited)

If you want to buy Veritas, rather buy directly from Lee Valley. I did it, and can assure you that even with shipping and taxes, I came in way under Hardware Centre's pricing.

 

A good old second-hand Stanley from the 1920s to 1970s is still the way to go if you don't have the money. They are out there. You may even get some USA made ones.

 

Here is my collection of planes. Only the ones on the front right were bought new. The others were all bought at pawn shops. The one Bailey #3 (second from right at the top) were bought at a pawn shop in Parow for R80, still in it's yellow carton box, with not one spec of rust.  Was probably never used even.

 

 

Edited by Moridin
Posted

Thanks! I got some Nova 17, first coat is on. What grit should I sand with in between?

 

 

At least 80/100,  ... 150/180   finer grit will clog up, but try say 80 first then a finer grit, get it smooth before the next coat. And give it good time to dry in between coats, more thinner coats are better than fewer thicker coats.

Posted

Made these:

 

e856677873c4d05b88decce5912eb732.jpg

 

To join these:

 

815beabc7618904e284864f73658c2b5.jpg

 

For this:

 

62fb63c0bd22e7358ae9ef12557e0775.jpg

 

The table is slowly taking shape, used a biscuit jointer, pocket holes and glue, finished half of the top when I ran out of screws and clamps, will carry on tomorrow.

Stretch, just a question...we all see things diffirently, but why didn't you lap-jointed the X legs i.o. the individual pieces, then laminated the 3 or 4 X legs with lap joints together?

Posted

Stretch, just a question...we all see things diffirently, but why didn't you lap-jointed the X legs i.o. the individual pieces, then laminated the 3 or 4 X legs with lap joints together?

Another q - did you just laminate them, or did you reinforce the lamination with dowels or biscuits?

 

I can see why you did it the way you did (far easier to create a pseudo-lap joint by gluing 2 shorter pieces to the longer piece and have a gap in the middle) but I wouldn't trust "just" glue to hold up over time, with that table top and the abuse I know tables receive. But then I'm a fan of over-engineering stuff, so I could be wrong. 

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