Car maintenance

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Did the dealer shnaai you?

I honestly don't know, and there's no way to tell to be honest. could have been my mechanic not bleeding the system when he put the new thermostat in, causing the thing to overheat just a bit too much and then cause it to blow. Could have been there before, but much smaller (sure as fk wasn't overheating when I bought it) so.... Ja I dunno dude. Going back to the dealer now that my mechanic has worked on it would be a bit schnaai, and would start a super finger pointing exercise.

 

I'm gonna get it fixed and see what I can do to recoup some of the expenses. Good news is that even with this, it's still within budget even with worst case.

 

Mate of mine in Ceres is a diesel mechanic and he's got a few connections he can pull in. Still love this thing tho.

Edited February 17, 2018 by Myles Mayhew

[Let's Ride]

Always had good service with MACE in Tokai and they don't replace things just for fun.

 

For a cheaper alternative allan edwards motors in Claremont.

 

Myles, who serviced your car? Bosch or the dealers?

Edited February 17, 2018 by Let's Ride

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Always had good service with MACE in Tokai and they don't replace things just for fun.

 

For a cheaper alternative allan edwards motors in Claremont.

 

Myles, who serviced your car? Bosch or the dealers?

Neither. Private mechanic.

[New Landy new life]

Speaking of thermostats, my old man replaced his water pump on his 1976 Merc 230.4 and filled the system with water but the temp gauge went sky high on the first run but the top hose off the radiator was cold.

I gave him a hand and drilled a 1mm hole in the Thermostat flange to allow the air to escape and thus bleed the system allowing water to be at the thermostat instead of just air and not allowing it to open.

My old Landrover Series III had a small hole in the thermostat and a little floating ball type goodie that did that automatically and then shut the bleed hole when the water floated the tiny ball.

 

I think a lot of airlocks are caused by air not being able to go past the thermostat that is well sealed in the housing.

[the nerd]

Speaking of thermostats, my old man replaced his water pump on his 1976 Merc 230.4 and filled the system with water but the temp gauge went sky high on the first run but the top hose off the radiator was cold.

I gave him a hand and drilled a 1mm hole in the Thermostat flange to allow the air to escape and thus bleed the system allowing water to be at the thermostat instead of just air and not allowing it to open.

My old Landrover Series III had a small hole in the thermostat and a little floating ball type goodie that did that automatically and then shut the bleed hole when the water floated the tiny ball.

 

I think a lot of airlocks are caused by air not being able to go past the thermostat that is well sealed in the housing.

 

Same thing in my MK1 golf, made a little hole in the thermostat... 

 

also used to just run without it

[gazzacpt]

Speaking of thermostats, my old man replaced his water pump on his 1976 Merc 230.4 and filled the system with water but the temp gauge went sky high on the first run but the top hose off the radiator was cold.

I gave him a hand and drilled a 1mm hole in the Thermostat flange to allow the air to escape and thus bleed the system allowing water to be at the thermostat instead of just air and not allowing it to open.

My old Landrover Series III had a small hole in the thermostat and a little floating ball type goodie that did that automatically and then shut the bleed hole when the water floated the tiny ball.

 

I think a lot of airlocks are caused by air not being able to go past the thermostat that is well sealed in the housing.

I've had that issue. I've found the cheaper thermostats don't have the little air relief wobbler in them. I've started using Hella or Echlin only. You also need to pay attention to how they are installed. If that valve is at the lowest point it will also cause headaches. I suppose if it is a hole it won't matter. The valve type must be at the highest point it can be in the housing or the air just will not come out.

Lot's of systems also have bleed valves at the highest point of the cooling systems now to make life easier.

 

 

Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

[New Landy new life]

Same thing in my MK1 golf, made a little hole in the thermostat... 

 

also used to just run without it

Always best to run with a thermostat and not remove it.

 

Besides warming the engine quicker in Winter, it slows down the flow of water in the radiator, thus allowing the heat exchange better than running full flow and not giving off enough of it's heat to the fins.

[sias]

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

[Skylark]

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

Get Ate pads from Goldwagen, same OE manufacturer for most of the VW branded pads. Edited May 2, 2018 by Skylark

[LazyTrailRider]

VW again!!! Quote for 2 front brake pads - R4000!!! The guys at the local brake and clutch can do it for me for R950 and they skim the discs too...

 

That is quite rough. My X3's pads used to cost R4300 for 2 and only lasted about 25,000km if I look at the motorplan history.

 

I only kept the Beemer for 30,000km (how long I usually keep a vehicle) and had both replaced about 15,000km into my ownership just before its motorplan lapsed. It would have been insanity to take it to the dealers after that!

Edited May 2, 2018 by LazyEnduroRider

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

bloody hell. 

 

Cam position sensor has packed up on my caddy, and there's a vacuum leak somewhere wreaking havoc with the boost controller and wastegate actuator. Thought I found the leak, but nooo. 

 

Getting it sorted tomorrow, but that's another 4k. 

[Eddy Gordo]

Dont want to be a bearer of bad news, but a friend of mine had a caddy as well. He spent well over 30k on repairs in the 4 years or so that he had it. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Dont want to be a bearer of bad news, but a friend of mine had a caddy as well. He spent well over 30k on repairs in the 4 years or so that he had it. 

I've already spent 20k on it, so this is a bit of a kick in the nuts. 

[stefmeister]

bloody hell.

 

Cam position sensor has packed up on my caddy, and there's a vacuum leak somewhere wreaking havoc with the boost controller and wastegate actuator. Thought I found the leak, but nooo.

 

Getting it sorted tomorrow, but that's another 4k.

How many km on the odo?

 

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

How many km on the odo?

 

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hehe... 1.9 tdi

 

232000km 

 

Just had a full top end overhaul

 

Head skim

New cam

New glow plugs

new intake valves & guides

new cam followers

front control arms

new Crank position sensor

new cam position sensor (that packed up after 3,000 km - Goldwagen unit)

 

These 1.9's have been known to be pretty sturdy, as long as you look after em. Seems the previous owners did a very good job of not looking after it. 

[Jakalaka]

How many km on the odo?

VW/Audi are ***. They start giving trouble after 80-ish kkm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey now, let's keep things civil.

 

Everyone has a few stories of manufacturer x.....

 

Let's keep this thread useful.