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Posted

With 32 x 46 at the back ,you should be able to ride everything .32 x 50 is so slow ,you will struggle to keep upright .I reckon the smallest in front with a 50 at the back should be a 34 or even better a 36 oval .I am going to try out 1 x 12 this desember .Currently on 34 x 11 -46 .Top end on 32 x 10 is also to slow imo

I agree. I had a 32x46 as well. On the 40 tooth it was ok, but as soon as you jump to 46 tooth, you spin and go nowhere! Can't remember where I read it wrt ratios. But the 34x50 will still give the same effect or you will still spin as much like the 32x46. I think going 36 in front would be perfect to fully utilise the range?

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Posted

With 32 x 46 at the back ,you should be able to ride everything .32 x 50 is so slow ,you will struggle to keep upright .I reckon the smallest in front with a 50 at the back should be a 34 or even better a 36 oval .I am going to try out 1 x 12 this desember .Currently on 34 x 11 -46 .Top end on 32 x 10 is also to slow imo

I agree. I had a 32x46 as well. On the 40 tooth it was ok, but as soon as you jump to 46 tooth, you spin and go nowhere! Can't remember where I read it wrt ratios. But the 34x50 will still give the same effect or you will still spin as much like the 32x46. I think going 36 in front would be perfect to fully utilise the range?

Posted

I agree. I had a 32x46 as well. On the 40 tooth it was ok, but as soon as you jump to 46 tooth, you spin and go nowhere! Can't remember where I read it wrt ratios. But the 34x50 will still give the same effect or you will still spin as much like the 32x46. I think going 36 in front would be perfect to fully utilise the range?

 

 

it depends on your power to weight and the gradient you ride regularly. In Cpt, if you can handle a 36T chainring  for a Grabouw Trailseeker then you probably in the top 10%.

A 34T chainring on flatter courses isn't enough. I regularly sit in the 12 and 10 tooth sprockets when dirt roading. A mate of mine lives in a JHB and he rides a 36T chainring up there. No problem. Comes to Cpt on holiday and we have to ride with toilet paper unless he swaps the 36T for 34 or even a 32T.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

GX Eagle now on 7200km and it's running ok. Running 2nd chain from 2000km . I say running ok  because it has never run quite as smooth and quiet as my previous drivetrain Shimano XT 11sp.

 

I'm thinking of putting the 1st chain back on instead of a new chain. What do you think?

Posted

GX Eagle now on 7200km and it's running ok. Running 2nd chain from 2000km . I say running ok because it has never run quite as smooth and quiet as my previous drivetrain Shimano XT 11sp.

 

I'm thinking of putting the 1st chain back on instead of a new chain. What do you think?

If it's at a similar wear limit then I don't see why not, that's something many people do albeit with more chains hut the theory remains the same.
Posted (edited)

I did 1400km on my GX and my LBS said chain was 50% so they changed it.   They reckon I must replace casette and chain rings with my next chain. Surely not?

Edited by Starvin' Marvin
Posted (edited)

Do your sram 12 speed chains wear unevenly on the outer side and inner side of the chain? I am running the black eagle chain and the cassette facing side has worn silver.

That will always happen on a coloured chain as the inner plates rub against the cassette when changing up gears.

 

Edit: spelling.

Edited by BikeisLife
Posted (edited)

I did 1400km on my GX and my LBS said chain was 50% so they changed it.   They reckon I must replace casette and chain rings with my next chain. Surely not?

 

 

It depends.... 

How worn is the cassettte?

only way to tell is if the new chain skips or its visibly worn i.e. the tooth show pointy ends  and start to look concave on the drive edge (trailing edge)

Edited by DieselnDust
Posted

Do your sram 12 speed chains wear unevenly on the outer side and inner side of the chain? I am running the black eagle chain and the cassette facing side has worn silver.

How would it wear evenly when there is nothing touching the outside? And the inside is used for shiffting?

Posted

I did 1400km on my GX and my LBS said chain was 50% so they changed it.   They reckon I must replace casette and chain rings with my next chain. Surely not?

Put on a new chain and see if it slips, if not then ride it if it does change casette

Posted

I did 1400km on my GX and my LBS said chain was 50% so they changed it.   They reckon I must replace casette and chain rings with my next chain. Surely not?

 

Bike shops always suggest changing cassettes and chainrings, regardless of mileage or condition!

 

My XX1 11 speed cassette and chain have done around 2100km and still looking good. Chain is at 0,5% wear, so will be due for a change soon. Cassette and chainring still look new...

 

It's all about looking after your drive train. If you clean and lube it religiously, it will last!

Posted (edited)

It depends.... 

How worn is the cassettte?

only way to tell is if the new chain skips or its visibly worn i.e. the tooth show pointy ends  and start to look concave on the drive edge (trailing edge

the 50T has abit of shiny bits from the chain shifting.  The chain has never skipped and the shifts are buttery smooth. no pointy ends

post-9851-0-27468400-1550603244_thumb.jpg

Edited by Starvin' Marvin

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