Sram GX / XO1 / XX1 12 Speed mileage

[DieselnDust]

2 hours ago, Chain-L said:

Have about 9 000km on a XO1 casette and XX1 chainring. I have been rotating three chains (2 x XO1 chains and one GX chain-which I took out of rotation, because of higher wear). I have now had a few chain drops and I am thinking of only replacing the chainring and see if that solves the problem. Should I consider getting two new XX1/XO1 chains to start with the new chainring and hope the casette is still ok, or do I just continue with the current 2x chains till the casette needs replacing?

I guess it will probably depend on the wear on the chains....and If they are still within the 0.5% then replacing with two new ones should be ok, if over 0.5 then probably to late..?
Would you agree with my logic and which DM chainring would you suggest?

 

 

If you have been replacing before 0.5% then your cassette should be fine for another chain cycle.

If you ave been running the chains over 0.5% then likely the cassette is damaged. The only way to know for sure is to replace the chains, with a new chain ring and then check for rear sprocket skipping. If it skips then save the old  drive train parts chains and cassette for winter and squeeze more life out of them that  way.

In the other thread you posted about a Chaining for a SRAM Ai crankset. The best best is a SRAM Xsync2 6mm offset DM for this crankset. Those rings last a lot longer than other brands. They did their homework on the tooth profile for this product

 

Good luck !

[DuncanCT]

Would be interesting to hear who would forgo the weight penalty for longevity.

I have bought for an ebike but at R1500 and depending on how many km's you can get out of it seems like a valid option for longer miles?

For reference: Shimano LinkGlide CS-LS600-11

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8130.html

Edited June 17, 2022 by DuncanCT

[Chadvdw67]

I dont feel like going through the whole thread, so it has probably been answered already....

 

Is there any real difference between the sram XO1 and XX1 chains? There is a significant price difference between them, and I am almost due a new chain, so just checking if it really worth the extra R800-R1000 for the XX1 over XO1?

[MTBRIDER1234]

1 hour ago, Chadvdw67 said:

I dont feel like going through the whole thread, so it has probably been answered already....

 

Is there any real difference between the sram XO1 and XX1 chains? There is a significant price difference between them, and I am almost due a new chain, so just checking if it really worth the extra R800-R1000 for the XX1 over XO1?

In my experience, the XX1 chains last a helluva lot longer than any other chain. More specifically, the black, gold and rainbow XX1 chains last forever; like they last 2 or 3 times as long as an X01 or lower  spec chain. I would say if you can afford it, then definitely go for it! It will save you money in the long term and it looks rad!

[MTBRIDER1234]

On 12/6/2018 at 10:24 AM, DieselnDust said:

GX Chain : 1000km

 

TAYA Gold 12s : 300km

 

XO1: 1800km

 

XX1 : 500km and still no sign of wear. When fitted the Park Tool Chain checker wouldn't fit at 0.0% wear and it still doesn't.

 

The XO1 eagle cassette has seen all these chains and all chaines were replaced at 0.5% wear. At this point the wear is visible because the chain starts to lift off the 42T and 50T sprockets about half way around the chain wrap.

 

lesson: buy an XX1 chain. I don't know anyone who is using one that has replaced it yet. I even have on on my road bike now

 

1 hour ago, Chadvdw67 said:

I dont feel like going through the whole thread, so it has probably been answered already....

 

Is there any real difference between the sram XO1 and XX1 chains? There is a significant price difference between them, and I am almost due a new chain, so just checking if it really worth the extra R800-R1000 for the XX1 over XO1?

it seems like many others have also found a large difference between them. Like Diesel said, buy an XX1 chain; it will be exactly what I get once my current chain goes.

[DieselnDust]

My current XX1 chain has seen about 3800km and its at 0.5% wear now. It has been abused more than any previous chain though. I've ridden KarooBurn, 360one and AroudthePot with this chain (that's 242+362+160km of race condition abuse + a full XCO season and around 180km per week of training. Basically its done almost a years worth of Cape Epic training plus the Epic comparatively.

Its running on an old cassette and chainring for the winter then it comes off and the new rings, chain and low mileage cassette goes back on for summer

 

[Jbr]

Not sure it is the right topic for this question but not sure either that my question deserves it's own topic.

So yesterday I decided to put on some new race parts to start testing the setup a little bit before the next few races instead of crash testing on race day. Good on me, because I'm still fine tuning to get it right.

So I replaced my GX AXS cage with a garbaruk cage and in the same time I fitted a fresh XO1 cassette to replace my GX cassette,

This setup is a hell of a lot lighter, but the cage doesn't really seem that stiff. Funny enough, it shifts perfectly on all the bigger cogs (where you'd assume cage stiffness plays the biggest part ?), but where it seems not great is the 3 smallest cogs. I tried every B-Gap setting possible to try and get it better, but it's still not great, especially under load.

I put a fresh chain on (KMC gold ti, I actually cut it a little bit longer than the previous one (two outer, three inners), it's a lot better, which is a bit surprising because the previous chain was already a freshie from december, as the old one wasn't working on the brand new sram chainring.

Questions are :

1. is there a break-in period for a fresh cassette ? I could test with the old cassette see if the shifting on the small cogs is perfect, I might, but I'd find it a bit odd, I can't remember ever having shifting problems on a fresh cassette/chain combo, although the fact that I'm not using an eagle chain could be a factor (cassette says "eagle chains only").
2. I notice as is that my limit screws aren't event touching, yet the alignement of the derailleur with the smallest cog is almost not "out" enough, which could explain why it's so hard to get the smallest cog "On". I've actually removed a spacer that was behind the cassette, but it's still not quite out enough. I'm now wondering if the garbaruk cage has a tiny different offset or if maybe I put the spring in the derailleur back the wrong way (don't thing there's a way but hey ?) or if it might maybe be a bit tired and needs replacing ?

Opinions?

Right now it is totally rideable, I just find having to ease of a bit and wait a second to engage the 3 smallest cogs not really acceptable on a top end setup.

Edited March 13 by Jbr

[droo]

1 hour ago, Jbr said:

Not sure it is the right topic for this question but not sure either that my question deserves it's own topic.

So yesterday I decided to put on some new race parts to start testing the setup a little bit before the next few races instead of crash testing on race day. Good on me, because I'm still fine tuning to get it right.

So I replaced my GX AXS cage with a garbaruk cage and in the same time I fitted a fresh XO1 cassette to replace my GX cassette,

This setup is a hell of a lot lighter, but the cage doesn't really seem that stiff. Funny enough, it shifts perfectly on all the bigger cogs (where you'd assume cage stiffness plays the biggest part ?), but where it seems not great is the 3 smallest cogs. I tried every B-Gap setting possible to try and get it better, but it's still not great, especially under load.

I put a fresh chain on (KMC gold ti, I actually cut it a little bit longer than the previous one (two outer, three inners), it's a lot better, which is a bit surprising because the previous chain was already a freshie from december, as the old one wasn't working on the brand new sram chainring.

Questions are :

1. is there a break-in period for a fresh cassette ? I could test with the old cassette see if the shifting on the small cogs is perfect, I might, but I'd find it a bit odd, I can't remember ever having shifting problems on a fresh cassette/chain combo, although the fact that I'm not using an eagle chain could be a factor (cassette says "eagle chains only").
2. I notice as is that my limit screws aren't event touching, yet the alignement of the derailleur with the smallest cog is almost not "out" enough, which could explain why it's so hard to get the smallest cog "On". I've actually removed a spacer that was behind the cassette, but it's still not quite out enough. I'm now wondering if the garbaruk cage has a tiny different offset or if maybe I put the spring in the derailleur back the wrong way (don't thing there's a way but hey ?) or if it might maybe be a bit tired and needs replacing ?

Opinions?

Right now it is totally rideable, I just find having to ease of a bit and wait a second to engage the 3 smallest cogs not really acceptable on a top end setup.

Questions - did you measure the old chain before you put it on? 3 months riding for you could easily wear a chain past 0.5%, and a worn chain on a new cassette will shift badly, and also have the fun side effect of trashing your new cassette in a few rides.

Was there a spacer between the cage and spring when you took the original cage off? This could throw out spacing if it isn't needed with the new cage.

Did you get the pulley spacers the right way around? 3 are the same, 1 is different and goes over a nipple where the top pulley attaches to the inner cage. 

How was the shifting with the original cage?

[Jbr]

11 minutes ago, droo said:

Questions - did you measure the old chain before you put it on? 3 months riding for you could easily wear a chain past 0.5%, and a worn chain on a new cassette will shift badly, and also have the fun side effect of trashing your new cassette in a few rides.

Was there a spacer between the cage and spring when you took the original cage off? This could throw out spacing if it isn't needed with the new cage.

Did you get the pulley spacers the right way around? 3 are the same, 1 is different and goes over a nipple where the top pulley attaches to the inner cage. 

How was the shifting with the original cage?

yes, it was not near .75, I only rode 20mins with that "brand new 2nd hand" chain. I always change my chains the second they reach .75

I put the new cage on top of the plastic platform that held the old cage, and that seals the container that keeps the spring in, the new cage contact point with that platform looks same as on the old one and fits on perfectly.

I put the pulleys in the cage thinking they're non directional. When I started troubleshooting that shifting issue I noticed that the closest pulley to the cassette was actually spaced out differently on the one side (closer to the frame), so if I turn it around it will make my problem even worse.

On the original cage shifting was better, although I always had that little bit of a weird setup where the limitscrew at the small side of the cassette was barely in contact, I figured it was because someone put a spacer behind my cassette (probably when I had a pair of training wheels setup for my prev bike, the bikeshop must have tried to make them both align with the same derailleur setting)

I'll take a couple photos

Edited March 13 by Jbr

[BaGearA]

2 minutes ago, Jbr said:

yes, it was not near .75, I only rode 20mins with that "brand new 2nd hand" chain. I always change my chains the second they reach .75

I put the new cage on top of the plastic platform that held the old cage, and that seals the container that keeps the spring in, the new cage contact point with that platform looks same as on the old one and fits on perfectly.

I put the pulleys in the cage thinking they're non directional. When I started troubleshooting that shifting issue I noticed that the closest pulley to the cassette was actually spaced out differently on the one side (closer to the frame), so if I turn it around it will make my problem even worse.

On the original cage shifting was better, although I always had that little bit of a weird setup where the limitscrew at the small side of the cassette was barely in contact, I figured it was because someone put a spacer behind my cassette (probably when I had a pair of training wheels setup for my prev bike, the bikeshop must have tried to make them both align with the same derailleur setting)

I'll take a couple photos

That's too far , a cassette with a 0.75 chain coming off won't take a brand new chain ...atleast not smoothly 

 

I rotate 3 chains on a cassette all at 0.5 then back on till .75 when the 3rd has reached .5 

 

As per countless comments on the threads and its worked great for me 

 

GX eagle fwiw 

[droo]

1 minute ago, Jbr said:

yes, it was not near .75, I only rode 20mins with that "brand new 2nd hand" chain. I always change my chains the second they reach .75

I put the new cage on top of the plastic platform that held the old cage, and that seals the container that keeps the spring in, the new cage looks same as the old one and fits on that platform perfectly.

I put the pulleys in the cage thinking they're non directional. When I started troubleshooting that shifting issue I noticed that the closest pulley to the cassette was actually spaced out differently on the one side (closer to the frame), so if I turn it around it will make my problem even worse.

On the original cage shifting was better, although I always had that little bit of a weird setup where the limitscrew at the small side of the cassette was barely in contact, I figured it was because someone put a spacer behind my cassette (probably when I had a pair of training wheels setup for my prev bike, the bikeshop must have tried to make them both align with the same derailleur setting)

 

Spacer behind the cassette on an XD driver would cause issues for sure, so removing that would definitely help.

0.75 is way far gone for a chain and will be quite well into eating cassette and rings. 0.5% is the max wear if you want to save the bits with teeth, and shifting will start getting a bit sloppy beyond that as well.

On the top pulley - diagram below is what I'm talking about, sounds like you may have one of the spacers on backwards which could well be causing your issue.

[Jbr]

Just now, BaGearA said:

That's too far , a cassette with a 0.75 chain coming off won't take a brand new chain ...atleast not smoothly 

 

I rotate 3 chains on a cassette all at 0.5 then back on till .75 when the 3rd has reached .5 

 

As per countless comments on the threads and its worked great for me 

 

GX eagle fwiw 

I realise I've been counting wrong this whole time 🤣 For me before .5 is .75 new (half full, half empty glass 🤣)

Here's the old chain :

Here you can see the upper pulley is spaced towards the outside (sorry about the mess, the new chain was freshly waxed waiting for it's day)

 

Where the cage is pressed against that platform/seal that keeps the spring tight and clean. At first I thought that little thingy that you put in to prevent the cage from spinning a 360 the second you take the chain off was a bit too big for where it bolts into the cage (you can see it's in contact with the derailleur), but I took it off and it doesn't make a difference in shifting

[Jbr]

One thing though, without the spacer it still looks like there's a gap behind the cassette, about a mil or half a mil, I checked the grooves in the cassette, it doesn't look like you're supposed to fit it in a specific way like the shimano cassettes that have a specific pattern so that you can only fit the cassette in one specific position... right ? Must I just tighten it harder ?

[DuncanDoughnuts]

On 8/2/2021 at 10:54 AM, DieselnDust said:

The cassette is worn because of the chain that was run to 0.75%. Replace the chain before 0.5% wear and the cassette will last much longer

Fully agree with that ... I also fine I get about 50% more millage form a X.O chain that a GX chain. Not sure if it's just me and the extra wear a ebike puts the chains through. (and I replace between 0.5 and 0.6)

I use an app called MainTrack that links with my strava where I can track the millage and hours or every separate component on the bike. So I can see exactly the millage Im getting for my chains and cassettes. 

[michaelbiker]

39 minutes ago, Jbr said:

One thing though, without the spacer it still looks like there's a gap behind the cassette, about a mil or half a mil, I checked the grooves in the cassette, it doesn't look like you're supposed to fit it in a specific way like the shimano cassettes that have a specific pattern so that you can only fit the cassette in one specific position... right ? Must I just tighten it harder ?

Is this an XD or XDR driver hub? The spacer is necessary when using an eagle cassette on XDR. 

[Jbr]

1 minute ago, michaelbiker said:

Is this an XD or XDR driver hub? The spacer is necessary when using an eagle cassette on XDR. 

XDR, okay so that's why the spacer was there and why the is still there even without it, will put it back on, I didn't notice an improvement after taking it off anyways. Thanks man