Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo

[Headshot]

The 2.3 version, 100% agreed. 2.5WT - not so sure. 

 

BUT. For people looking for an aggressive XC tyre for the front, the Aggressor would be far better than, say, an Ikon. 

Isn't what we ride really just aggressive XC anyway. 

[Odinson]

The 2.3 version, 100% agreed. 2.5WT - not so sure. 

 

BUT. For people looking for an aggressive XC tyre for the front, the Aggressor would be far better than, say, an Ikon. 

 

I don't know, man. The Maxxis range has basically got everything covered. 

 

I'm now running a pair of 2.6" Rekons and they're fekkin' good all-rounders. Would much rather run that as opposed to an Aggressor for XC purposes. Think you're straight line braking isn't going to be all that great with the Aggressor. 

[Odinson]

Isn't what we ride really just aggressive XC anyway. 

 

If you're not getting shuttled or using a lift, it's XC. 

[DuncanDoughnuts]

Which bike is the Butcher on? Mojo HDR? 

have it on my tallboy, and it works really well there...so I though it would be great on my HD3 ..

 

Nope .... had a awful ride on Sunday trying to find grip...

 

so the DHR WT back on the front and Ive kept the Purgatory on the back... I find it does roll nicer than the Aggressor I took off. Both 2.3 

Edited January 28, 2019 by Toads.Mojo

[Hairy]

I think the new fangled fancy term is "Down Country"

 

Isn't what we ride really just aggressive XC anyway. 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I think the new fangled fancy term is "Down Country"

Or UpDuro / DownDuro 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Isn't what we ride really just aggressive XC anyway. 

I dunno, man. I don't really care about what e-bikes are doing in races, and I don't use lycra. Also not likely to wear a tapout t-shirt or complain that my no-fat soy milk frapachappalatte has too many sprinkles of cocao on top. 

 

Maybe I'm just a chillduro type of guy. 

[Jewbacca]

Always that one guy. Faster, harder, longer. 

Scoooter!

 

I was jesting

[Headshot]

The Aggressor has nice hard center knobs and the softer edging knobs seem well supported. Should roll like a demon. (It also smells nice and I like the name) Looking forward to a possible test ride later if my spouse can be persuaded to shuttle me a few km...

[Odinson]

The Aggressor has nice hard center knobs and the softer edging knobs seem well supported. Should roll like a demon. (It also smells nice and I like the name) Looking forward to a possible test ride later if my spouse can be persuaded to shuttle me a few km...

 

Transitioning from a soft to a hard knob dramatically improves performance. 

[Hairy]

Just hope it holds out and does not slip out at speed......could be a nasty accident!

Transitioning from a soft to a hard knob dramatically improves performance. 

[Headshot]

Just hope it holds out and does not slip out at speed......could be a nasty accident!

 

Now now boys - the double entendre has its limits...

[Odinson]

While on the subject of tyres, who here has gone from around a 25mm ID rim to about a 30mm ID rim. I'd like to go slightly wider to make full use of Maxxis' WT tyres, but I'm gonna be pissed if I replace perfectly good rims and then feel virtually no difference out on the trail. 

[Duane_Bosch]

I'm on the fence with this type of thing. When I bought my jeffsy 2 of my mates told me that the stock rim width was basically unusable and that I should immediately throw away the stock wheels. I could honestly not feel a difference between ZTR's on hopes over the stock wheels the bike comes with.

 

I'd want actual measured data from a rider I respect before I'd commit. And even then I'd weigh that cost up over another performance upgrade such as a few days with a shock wiz for example. If I destroy a wheel then yes.

 

The only non stock items on my bike are the rear shock and the cockpit. But the cockpit is just personal preference rather than any perceived performance advantage.

Edited January 29, 2019 by Duane_Bosch

[GrahamS2]

I'm on the fence with this type of thing. When I bought my jeffsy 2 of my mates told me that the stock rim width was basically unusable and that I should immediately throw away the stock wheels. I could honestly not feel a difference between ZTR's on hopes over the stock wheels the bike comes with.

 

I'd want actual measured data from a rider I respect before I'd commit. And even then I'd weigh that cost up over another performance upgrade such as a few days with a shock wiz for example.

I'm with you on that viewpoint. It's such a fractional change, and the biggest benefit is a bit more volume so lower pressures can be run.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I'm on the fence with this type of thing. When I bought my jeffsy 2 of my mates told me that the stock rim width was basically unusable and that I should immediately throw away the stock wheels. I could honestly not feel a difference between ZTR's on hopes over the stock wheels the bike comes with.

 

I'd want actual measured data from a rider I respect before I'd commit. And even then I'd weigh that cost up over another performance upgrade such as a few days with a shock wiz for example. If I destroy a wheel then yes.

 

The only non stock items on my bike are the rear shock and the cockpit. But the cockpit is just personal preference rather than any perceived performance advantage.

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/rim-widths-comparison-test-mountain-bike.html

 

This is the best write up I've read to date. Not sure if you respect Matt Wragg...

I personally felt a small difference in grip, but that was thanks to the slightly higher volume the wider rim allowed (went from 24 to 35mm internal) with the same tyres. How much of that was the rim build (assymetric rims, so better spoke tension and stiffer wheel) vs placebo vs riding on different days and weighting the tyres differently, I don't know. I just know I was able to drop the pressure a smidge.

 

Whether that would have remained true with a 28/30/32 mm rim, I haven't got any real world experience on the comparisons but I can sorta deduce how it would change by thinking about it.

 

Tyre profile is also very important, imo. Squareish tread patterns would square off even more, which means transition to side knobs happens earlier and tearing may be a problem due to this.

 

But hey, it wasn't nearly as big of a difference as going from the Pike RC to the Lyrik RC2 and Marzo.

Edited January 29, 2019 by Captain Fatbastard Mayhem