The toolbox thread

[Mars1967]

There are also these 2 on Takealot, of the 3, which would you recommend?

Check this out on takealot: Ryobi - Cordless Driver Drill Kit - 18V Li-Ionhttps://www.takealot.com/ryobi-cordless-driver-drill-kit-18v-li-ion/PLID52753416

Check this out on takealot: Ryobi - Cordless Drill 10mm - 18V Li-Ionhttps://www.takealot.com/ryobi-cordless-drill-10mm-18v-li-ion/PLID52753409

It doesn’t appear as if either of the Ryobi drills have a hammer drill function. Of the two the blue one is definitely the pick. The special on the Bosch is really good. For R345 more, which in the bigger scheme of things is nothing, you have a great drill that is serviceable to boot. It also does not appear that this Bosch has a hammer drill function. This is only important if you intend drilling into bricks and mortar as well.

 

The Adendorff drill has a hammer drill function and comes with two batteries.

Edited March 9, 2021 by Mars1967

[patches]

So I have to ask you guys in the know, when it comes to cordless drills etc, what is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? I want to get one soon, mainly for screws and things, but not sure which I should get, I already have a corded drill with hammer function for the "heavy duty" drilling, but what is better between the impact drill and normal cordless drills? Some impact drills I can see have a hex drive, but others look like they have normal chucks, very confusing.

 

 

I've recently done the research

 

Impact drill does not equal impact driver, they are 2 different things.

If its main purpose is going to be driving screws then you want an impact driver. It drives the screw kind of like an air driver, so its not applying continous torque but rather short rapid burst of torque, apparently so much easier and so much more powerful than a normal driver

 

 

I also wonder about this.

 

The Impact Drill hex drive means I won't be able to use it with normal drill bits if I need to do a quick job in wood, plastic  or something else.

 

I would rather go for one with a normal chuck. You can always insert the hex bit receiver thingy to allow you the quick swap-out of bits when doing screws.

 

 

As others have explained, the terminology can be confusing. Drill, hammer drill, impact drill drill driver, drunk driver, whatever!

 

So here's my slightly silly way of looking at it...

 

You know the DRILL...

 

 

The drill. Drill driver. You know this. This is what most people use or associate with making holes and turning fasteners. These use the traditional 10 or 13mm 3 jaw chucks, most decent models have clutches to tap out of the torque is too high for the application (like driving screws into drywall).

 

Can make holes in wood, metals, plastic,ad nearly any material where just a spinny-spin motion is needed.

 

Can fasten/unfasten most screws/bolts/nuts with the correct bit and as long as they are't too tight.

 

Advantages: Great for making holes and some light fastener work. Cheapest option.

Disadvantages: Limiting in other areas. Not torque enough to undo the wheel-nuts on your car.

 

It's HAMMER Time

 

The most common type of hammer drill is just called that... a hammer drill (or in confusing cases, an impact drill).

 

 

 

Still has the 3 jaw chuck and does spinny-spins, but now with some added tappy-taps (when set to hammer mode). The taps are axial (or along the shaft of the drill bit).

 

They hammer mode is almost primarily used for masonry (brick, concrete etc). But almost all hammer drills will have a regular drilling mode (and sometimes a fastener driving mode) so they are very versatile.

 

Advantages: Versatile, not too pricey

Disadvantages: Not great for serious masonry work. Still won't undo the wheel nuts on your car.

 

For dedicated masonry work and when some extra brute force is needed, a rotary hammer drill is the tool.

 

 

 

Bigger, beefier, and will pull you pants down if you use the belt hook.

 

Most of these use a special SDS (or some SDS variant) chuck, requiring special slotted drill bits.

 

Like so:

 

 

They can do harder tappy-taps (in the axial direction) while doing spinny-spins, to get though things like concrete lintels and such. Some can also do tappy-taps without spinny-spins as a sort of chisel/jackhammer function.

 

Not ideal for driving fasteners due to size, weight, and the need for an SDS-regular chuck (or some other) adaptor.

 

Advantages: Powerful. SDS chuck system is great. an come with chisel functionality

Disadvantages: Pricey, heavy, too specific, and not great for anything else really.

 

Deep IMPACT

 

Now we get into the actual question at hand... the impact driver.

 

 

These use a quick-release hex type chuck. They are primarily used for driving fasteners and unlike the hammer drill, the impact action is tangential (perpendicular to the radius... damn that sounds even more confusing)...

 

so basically thing of using a decent sized spanner on a tight bolt, stuck bolt. Then to get the bolt loose you hit the end of the spanner in an anti-clockwise motion with a hammer. That is how the impact driver do.

 

When a certain amount of resistance to the rotation is met, it starts a hammer/impact action in in the same direction as the rotation.

 

They can create massive amounts of torque (like I mean more torque than a mid sized car. The impact driver pictured above puts out 280Nm).

 

One can also get drill bits to fit the hex-chuck for making holes in stuff, however there is no axial impact/hammer action so no good for masonry.

 

The impact driver drill bits have the hex shank like so, and can be uses in a conventional chuck.:

 

 

Advantages: more compact than a drill. great torque for for tough fasteners. Can drill holes (best suited to soft materials though). Hex chuck is super quick and easy to use. It also doesn't loosen itself or slip, like conventional chucks often do. And yeah... it will likely undo the wheel-nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Not suited for masonry. Not ideal for all drilling applications.

 

You filthy WRENCH

 

 

The impact wrench is very similar to the impact driver, with the main difference being the "chuck", or lack thereof. Impact wrenches use conventional square drives (usually 1/2") to attach sockets for the driving of fasteners. They also have more torque and are generally bulkier.

 

Some more powerful models (like the one below) are even bigger, but boast more torque than a supercar... we're talking over 1500Nm for the variant below)

 

 

Advantages: very powerful. Great for driving big fasteners and tech screws into tough materials. Fits your socket set. Can undo the wheel nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Too specialised for general use. Pricey. Will strip the wheel nuts off your car.

 

Conclusion:

 

Impact drivers are amazing. I use mine far more often than I use my drill. Mostly because I fasten/unfasten more than I make holes in things, and the size and hex chuck make it convenient.

 

However if I could only have 1 of all the above, it would be a hammer drill as it's the most versatile. If you have a hammer drill, the addition of an impact driver will not go to waste. I'm fairly certain that like me, you'll find yourself using it more and more.

Edited March 9, 2021 by patches

[Chadvdw67]

As others have explained, the terminology can be confusing. Drill, hammer drill, impact drill drill driver, drunk driver, whatever!

 

So here's my slightly silly way of looking at it...

 

You know the DRILL...

 

 

The drill. Drill driver. You know this. This is what most people use or associate with making holes and turning fasteners. These use the traditional 10 or 13mm 3 jaw chucks, most decent models have clutches to tap out of the torque is too high for the application (like driving screws into drywall).

 

Can make holes in wood, metals, plastic,ad nearly any material where just a spinny-spin motion is needed.

 

Can fasten/unfasten most screws/bolts/nuts with the correct bit and as long as they are't too tight.

 

Advantages: Great for making holes and some light fastener work. Cheapest option.

Disadvantages: Limiting in other areas. Not torque enough to undo the wheel-nuts on your car.

 

It's HAMMER Time

 

The most common type of hammer drill is just called that... a hammer drill (or in confusing cases, an impact drill).

 

 

 

Still has the 3 jaw chuck and does spinny-spins, but now with some added tappy-taps (when set to hammer mode). The taps are axial (or along the shaft of the drill bit).

 

They hammer mode is almost primarily used for masonry (brick, concrete etc). But almost all hammer drills will have a regular drilling mode (and sometimes a fastener driving mode) so they are very versatile.

 

Advantages: Versatile, not too pricey

Disadvantages: Not great for serious masonry work. Still won't undo the wheel nuts on your car.

 

For dedicated masonry work and when some extra brute force is needed, a rotary hammer drill is the tool.

 

 

 

Bigger, beefier, and will pull you pants down if you use the belt hook.

 

Most of these use a special SDS (or some SDS variant) chuck, requiring special slotted drill bits.

 

Like so:

 

 

They can do harder tappy-taps (in the axial direction) while doing spinny-spins, to get though things like concrete lintels and such. Some can also do tappy-taps without spinny-spins as a sort of chisel/jackhammer function.

 

Not ideal for driving fasteners due to size, weight, and the need for an SDS-regular chuck (or some other) adaptor.

 

Advantages: Powerful. SDS chuck system is great. an come with chisel functionality

Disadvantages: Pricey, heavy, too specific, and not great for anything else really.

 

Deep IMPACT

 

Now we get into the actual question at hand... the impact driver.

 

 

These use a quick-release hex type chuck. They are primarily used for driving fasteners and unlike the hammer drill, the impact action is tangential (perpendicular to the radius... damn that sounds even more confusing)...

 

so basically thing of using a decent sized spanner on a tight bolt, stuck bolt. Then to get the bolt loose you hit the end of the spanner in an anti-clockwise motion with a hammer. That is how the impact driver do.

 

When a certain amount of resistance to the rotation is met, it starts a hammer/impact action in in the same direction as the rotation.

 

They can create massive amounts of torque (like I mean more torque than a mid sized car. The impact driver pictured above puts out 280Nm).

 

One can also get drill bits to fit the hex-chuck for making holes in stuff, however there is no axial impact/hammer action so no good for masonry.

 

The impact driver drill bits have the hex shank like so, and can be uses in a conventional chuck.:

 

 

Advantages: more compact than a drill. great torque for for tough fasteners. Can drill holes (best suited to soft materials though). Hex chuck is super quick and easy to use. It also doesn't loosen itself or slip, like conventional chucks often do. And yeah... it will likely undo the wheel-nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Not suited for masonry. Not ideal for all drilling applications.

 

You filthy WRENCH

 

 

The impact wrench is very similar to the impact driver, with the main difference being the "chuck", or lack thereof. Impact wrenches use conventional square drives (usually 1/2") to attach sockets for the driving of fasteners. They also have more torque and are generally bulkier.

 

Some more powerful models (like the one below) are even bigger, but boast more torque than a supercar... we're talking over 1500Nm for the variant below)

 

 

Advantages: very powerful. Great for driving big fasteners and tech screws into tough materials. Fits your socket set. Can undo the wheel nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Too specialised for general use. Pricey. Will strip the wheel nuts off your car.

 

Conclusion:

 

Impact drivers are amazing. I use mine far more often than I use my drill. Mostly because I fasten/unfasten more than I make holes in things, and the size and hex chuck make it convenient.

 

However if I could only have 1 of all the above, it would be a hammer drill as it's the most versatile. If you have a hammer drill, the addition of an impact driver will not go to waste. I'm fairly certain that like me, you'll find yourself using it more and more.

That was a really nice breakdown, very easy for us simple minded individuals to understand, thanks Patches

[mazambaan]

A grumble on hex bits; you can get longish ones but I cannot seem to find an extension as you would get with socket sets?

[Mars1967]

A grumble on hex bits; you can get longish ones but I cannot seem to find an extension as you would get with socket sets?

The best option is to use a quick coupler. The ones with the magnet inserted in the base are fairly slim. there is a picture of one higher up in the thread.

[The Ouzo]

As others have explained, the terminology can be confusing. Drill, hammer drill, impact drill drill driver, drunk driver, whatever!

 

So here's my slightly silly way of looking at it...

 

You know the DRILL...

 

 

The drill. Drill driver. You know this. This is what most people use or associate with making holes and turning fasteners. These use the traditional 10 or 13mm 3 jaw chucks, most decent models have clutches to tap out of the torque is too high for the application (like driving screws into drywall).

 

Can make holes in wood, metals, plastic,ad nearly any material where just a spinny-spin motion is needed.

 

Can fasten/unfasten most screws/bolts/nuts with the correct bit and as long as they are't too tight.

 

Advantages: Great for making holes and some light fastener work. Cheapest option.

Disadvantages: Limiting in other areas. Not torque enough to undo the wheel-nuts on your car.

 

It's HAMMER Time

 

The most common type of hammer drill is just called that... a hammer drill (or in confusing cases, an impact drill).

 

 

 

Still has the 3 jaw chuck and does spinny-spins, but now with some added tappy-taps (when set to hammer mode). The taps are axial (or along the shaft of the drill bit).

 

They hammer mode is almost primarily used for masonry (brick, concrete etc). But almost all hammer drills will have a regular drilling mode (and sometimes a fastener driving mode) so they are very versatile.

 

Advantages: Versatile, not too pricey

Disadvantages: Not great for serious masonry work. Still won't undo the wheel nuts on your car.

 

For dedicated masonry work and when some extra brute force is needed, a rotary hammer drill is the tool.

 

 

 

Bigger, beefier, and will pull you pants down if you use the belt hook.

 

Most of these use a special SDS (or some SDS variant) chuck, requiring special slotted drill bits.

 

Like so:

 

 

They can do harder tappy-taps (in the axial direction) while doing spinny-spins, to get though things like concrete lintels and such. Some can also do tappy-taps without spinny-spins as a sort of chisel/jackhammer function.

 

Not ideal for driving fasteners due to size, weight, and the need for an SDS-regular chuck (or some other) adaptor.

 

Advantages: Powerful. SDS chuck system is great. an come with chisel functionality

Disadvantages: Pricey, heavy, too specific, and not great for anything else really.

 

Deep IMPACT

 

Now we get into the actual question at hand... the impact driver.

 

 

These use a quick-release hex type chuck. They are primarily used for driving fasteners and unlike the hammer drill, the impact action is tangential (perpendicular to the radius... damn that sounds even more confusing)...

 

so basically thing of using a decent sized spanner on a tight bolt, stuck bolt. Then to get the bolt loose you hit the end of the spanner in an anti-clockwise motion with a hammer. That is how the impact driver do.

 

When a certain amount of resistance to the rotation is met, it starts a hammer/impact action in in the same direction as the rotation.

 

They can create massive amounts of torque (like I mean more torque than a mid sized car. The impact driver pictured above puts out 280Nm).

 

One can also get drill bits to fit the hex-chuck for making holes in stuff, however there is no axial impact/hammer action so no good for masonry.

 

The impact driver drill bits have the hex shank like so, and can be uses in a conventional chuck.:

 

 

Advantages: more compact than a drill. great torque for for tough fasteners. Can drill holes (best suited to soft materials though). Hex chuck is super quick and easy to use. It also doesn't loosen itself or slip, like conventional chucks often do. And yeah... it will likely undo the wheel-nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Not suited for masonry. Not ideal for all drilling applications.

 

You filthy WRENCH

 

 

The impact wrench is very similar to the impact driver, with the main difference being the "chuck", or lack thereof. Impact wrenches use conventional square drives (usually 1/2") to attach sockets for the driving of fasteners. They also have more torque and are generally bulkier.

 

Some more powerful models (like the one below) are even bigger, but boast more torque than a supercar... we're talking over 1500Nm for the variant below)

 

 

Advantages: very powerful. Great for driving big fasteners and tech screws into tough materials. Fits your socket set. Can undo the wheel nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Too specialised for general use. Pricey. Will strip the wheel nuts off your car.

 

Conclusion:

 

Impact drivers are amazing. I use mine far more often than I use my drill. Mostly because I fasten/unfasten more than I make holes in things, and the size and hex chuck make it convenient.

 

However if I could only have 1 of all the above, it would be a hammer drill as it's the most versatile. If you have a hammer drill, the addition of an impact driver will not go to waste. I'm fairly certain that like me, you'll find yourself using it more and more.

did not know about impact wrenches. I was today years old when I learned about them

[Vetplant]

That was a really nice breakdown, very easy for us simple minded individuals to understand, thanks Patches

Yep, agreed, I enjoyed the word selection.. " Spinny-spin", "Tappy-Tap", easy to follow.

 

I'm swayed to look out for a cordless impact driver to supplement my corded Hammer Drill.

[Hairy]

so after all the above I have come to the conclusion that all I need is a JIS screwdriver

[Jehosefat]

It doesn’t appear as if either of the Ryobi drills have a hammer drill function. Of the two the blue one is definitely the pick. The special on the Bosch is really good. For R345 more, which in the bigger scheme of things is nothing, you have a great drill that is serviceable to boot. It also does not appear that this Bosch has a hammer drill function. This is only important if you intend drilling into bricks and mortar as well.

 

The Adendorff drill has a hammer drill function and comes with two batteries.

The Bosch that is on special does have a hammer function according to the Bosch website: https://www.bosch-professional.com/za/en/promotion/06019F83K6

 

I just pulled the trigger on one this morning from Top Dog. Was getting over having to whip out the Rotary Hammer every time I wanted to put a small hole in a wall 

Edited March 10, 2021 by Jehosefat

[Chadvdw67]

Yep, agreed, I enjoyed the word selection.. " Spinny-spin", "Tappy-Tap", easy to follow.

 

I'm swayed to look out for a cordless impact driver to supplement my corded Hammer Drill.

Have to admit, in my head I was kinda reading it with the Ozzy man reviews and New Zealand Dad's voice

[Skylark]

The Bosch that is on special does have a hammer function according to the Bosch website: https://www.bosch-professional.com/za/en/promotion/06019F83K6

 

I just pulled the trigger on one this morning from Top Dog. Was getting over having to whip out the Rotary Hammer every time I wanted to put a small hole in a wall

I have seen that same deal but with 2 1.5Ah batteries instead of 1x 2Ah, worth googling for anyone that may prefer 2 of the smaller batteries vs 1 2ah.

[Jehosefat]

I have seen that same deal but with 2 1.5Ah batteries instead of 1x 2Ah, worth googling for anyone that may prefer 2 of the smaller batteries vs 1 2ah.

Agree, two batteries is way better than one even if they are slightly smaller. Luckily I've already got a few of the Bosch 18v batteries so I'm not too concerned about this bundle only having one.

[RustyHWR]

7 x Spinners left at Teng Tool Paarden Eiland @ R250.

Takes 1/4” sockets on one side and bit drivers on the opposite side.

[Psyrax]

Just a question regarding hand tools (pliers, grips, etc). Do anyone know where one can get these liqiud rubber that you dip the handles in to form a new solid grip? Some of my older tools look sad and some newer tools' grip are not good.

[BigDL]

As others have explained, the terminology can be confusing. Drill, hammer drill, impact drill drill driver, drunk driver, whatever!

 

So here's my slightly silly way of looking at it...

 

You know the DRILL...

 

 

The drill. Drill driver. You know this. This is what most people use or associate with making holes and turning fasteners. These use the traditional 10 or 13mm 3 jaw chucks, most decent models have clutches to tap out of the torque is too high for the application (like driving screws into drywall).

 

Can make holes in wood, metals, plastic,ad nearly any material where just a spinny-spin motion is needed.

 

Can fasten/unfasten most screws/bolts/nuts with the correct bit and as long as they are't too tight.

 

Advantages: Great for making holes and some light fastener work. Cheapest option.

Disadvantages: Limiting in other areas. Not torque enough to undo the wheel-nuts on your car.

 

It's HAMMER Time

 

The most common type of hammer drill is just called that... a hammer drill (or in confusing cases, an impact drill).

 

 

 

Still has the 3 jaw chuck and does spinny-spins, but now with some added tappy-taps (when set to hammer mode). The taps are axial (or along the shaft of the drill bit).

 

They hammer mode is almost primarily used for masonry (brick, concrete etc). But almost all hammer drills will have a regular drilling mode (and sometimes a fastener driving mode) so they are very versatile.

 

Advantages: Versatile, not too pricey

Disadvantages: Not great for serious masonry work. Still won't undo the wheel nuts on your car.

 

For dedicated masonry work and when some extra brute force is needed, a rotary hammer drill is the tool.

 

 

 

Bigger, beefier, and will pull you pants down if you use the belt hook.

 

Most of these use a special SDS (or some SDS variant) chuck, requiring special slotted drill bits.

 

Like so:

 

 

They can do harder tappy-taps (in the axial direction) while doing spinny-spins, to get though things like concrete lintels and such. Some can also do tappy-taps without spinny-spins as a sort of chisel/jackhammer function.

 

Not ideal for driving fasteners due to size, weight, and the need for an SDS-regular chuck (or some other) adaptor.

 

Advantages: Powerful. SDS chuck system is great. an come with chisel functionality

Disadvantages: Pricey, heavy, too specific, and not great for anything else really.

 

Deep IMPACT

 

Now we get into the actual question at hand... the impact driver.

 

 

These use a quick-release hex type chuck. They are primarily used for driving fasteners and unlike the hammer drill, the impact action is tangential (perpendicular to the radius... damn that sounds even more confusing)...

 

so basically thing of using a decent sized spanner on a tight bolt, stuck bolt. Then to get the bolt loose you hit the end of the spanner in an anti-clockwise motion with a hammer. That is how the impact driver do.

 

When a certain amount of resistance to the rotation is met, it starts a hammer/impact action in in the same direction as the rotation.

 

They can create massive amounts of torque (like I mean more torque than a mid sized car. The impact driver pictured above puts out 280Nm).

 

One can also get drill bits to fit the hex-chuck for making holes in stuff, however there is no axial impact/hammer action so no good for masonry.

 

The impact driver drill bits have the hex shank like so, and can be uses in a conventional chuck.:

 

 

Advantages: more compact than a drill. great torque for for tough fasteners. Can drill holes (best suited to soft materials though). Hex chuck is super quick and easy to use. It also doesn't loosen itself or slip, like conventional chucks often do. And yeah... it will likely undo the wheel-nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Not suited for masonry. Not ideal for all drilling applications.

 

You filthy WRENCH

 

 

The impact wrench is very similar to the impact driver, with the main difference being the "chuck", or lack thereof. Impact wrenches use conventional square drives (usually 1/2") to attach sockets for the driving of fasteners. They also have more torque and are generally bulkier.

 

Some more powerful models (like the one below) are even bigger, but boast more torque than a supercar... we're talking over 1500Nm for the variant below)

 

 

Advantages: very powerful. Great for driving big fasteners and tech screws into tough materials. Fits your socket set. Can undo the wheel nuts on your car

Disadvantages: Too specialised for general use. Pricey. Will strip the wheel nuts off your car.

 

Conclusion:

 

Impact drivers are amazing. I use mine far more often than I use my drill. Mostly because I fasten/unfasten more than I make holes in things, and the size and hex chuck make it convenient.

 

However if I could only have 1 of all the above, it would be a hammer drill as it's the most versatile. If you have a hammer drill, the addition of an impact driver will not go to waste. I'm fairly certain that like me, you'll find yourself using it more and more.

Brilliant - thank you. I bought an impact driver for building fences and decking in the new house after watching a few YouTube vids that suggested that that’s where it really comes into it’s own.

[BaGearA]

7 x Spinners left at Teng Tool Paarden Eiland @ R250.

Takes 1/4” sockets on one side and bit drivers on the opposite side.

 

Can someone explain to me (never heard of these things) what a spinner does?