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Replacing Sealant


Rhodent

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Karl Platt seated a tyre with a hand pump once. Just takes a bit of effort.

Before or after he carried Urs Huber across an Epic Stage finishline ..... on one leg

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Off Topic,

 

How Much Pressure do your tubeless MTB tyres lose in 1 Week.?

 

Thanks.

Differs wildly between brands ....

 

On some tires the loss is minimal over a month, while others needs to be topped up rach weekend.

 

In fact, the Maxxis that came with the Scott had to be topped up weekly, while the Maxxis on my current bike goes more than a month ....

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I used LTX777 which I think I got off CWC. Filled up on Friday and inflated with a bomb as couldn't get the tyre to seat by itself.

The ride on Saturday was terrible. Tyre kept on deflating. Took it all apart today and the sealant was pretty much solid. I'd heard some sealants can turn solid from a bomb...looks like I found the one that does!

 

post-3385-0-96167100-1612109049_thumb.jpg

post-3385-0-13640700-1612108975_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mudbream
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Off Topic,

 

How Much Pressure do your tubeless MTB tyres lose in 1 Week.?

 

Thanks.

.. Conti protection tyres I had to top up weekly

 

Maxxis tyres maybe twice a month

 

Spez tyres are just weird it feels like I go months between checking pressures

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No need to take the tyre off. Valve out. Sealant in. Valve back in. Pump up tyre. Ride your bike.

At some point you'll have to open it up and see what's inside, just adding more through the valve will lead to some serious gunk after a while.

 

With the right rim, reseating is easy. Otherwise soapy water and patience.

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Get ahead of the curve ... :)

 

This stuff WORKS. I have tubeless sets with for 2 years, no issues.

 

This morning a kid on a 20" tire had a puncture ... obviously nobody carries that size spare tube ....

 

I removed the valve core, added a bit of Sludge, valve in, inflate tire ....

 

Took longer to wask my hands and pack away the tools in my car than it took to get the kid going.

 

 

used it once (for a short little while) stuffed up the valve core to the point of me having to replace the whole valve.

 

the rest of the bottle ended up in the drain.

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I used LTX777 which I think I got off CWC. Filled up on Friday and inflated with a bomb as couldn't get the tyre to seat by itself.

The ride on Saturday was terrible. Tyre kept on deflating. Took it all apart today and the sealant was pretty much solid. I'd heard some sealants can turn solid from a bomb...looks like I found the one that does!

 

attachicon.gifc29fcc15-2459-4b32-82cb-6f92a0035ea4.jpg

attachicon.gif594f6808-345f-41bd-8d5a-5cbc274b1cc9.jpg

 

CO2 and latex sealant don't play nicely together. If you use a bomb to seat, deflate after (keep bead in place), then pump by hand. Also, make sure the sealant is given a good slosh-around to make sure all little leaks are taken care of at time of 1st inflation.

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CO2 and latex sealant don't play nicely together. If you use a bomb to seat, deflate after (keep bead in place), then pump by hand. Also, make sure the sealant is given a good slosh-around to make sure all little leaks are taken care of at time of 1st inflation.

isnt it the fact that the co2 gets so cold that causes the sealant to congeal ? So deflating again and pumping by hand is not gong to solve the problem.

 

At least thats my understanding, but I could be totally wrong.

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CO2 and latex sealant don't play nicely together. 

I understand that's due to the extremely low temperature of the co2 that causes the latex sealant to harden. Is that true?

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isnt it the fact that the co2 gets so cold that causes the sealant to congeal ? So deflating again and pumping by hand is not gong to solve the problem.

 

At least thats my understanding, but I could be totally wrong.

The reason why latex sealants solidify when using CO2 cartridges is a physical one; it’s the big thermal shock, which often initiates the polymerization of the sealant. To avoid it, it’s normally sufficient to put the valve at 12-o’clock prior to inflation and let the sealant flow down to the 6-o’clock area, so that it won’t be directly hit by the cold gas. Also, reducing the inflation speed (most CO2 adapters allow it these days) will prevent dropping the temperature too much, good for the sealant … and good for your hands, if you’re not wearing gloves.

https://www.velonews.com/gear/technical-faq-tire-sealant-questions/

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I understand that's due to the extremely low temperature of the co2 that causes the latex sealant to harden. Is that true?

 

https://www.velonews.com/gear/technical-faq-tire-sealant-questions/

 

"The reason why latex sealants solidify when using CO2 cartridges is a physical one; it’s the big thermal shock, which often initiates the polymerization of the sealant. To avoid it, it’s normally sufficient to put the valve at 12-o’clock prior to inflation and let the sealant flow down to the 6-o’clock area, so that it won’t be directly hit by the cold gas. Also, reducing the inflation speed (most CO2 adapters allow it these days) will prevent dropping the temperature too much, good for the sealant … and good for your hands, if you’re not wearing gloves."

 

I had always though it was a chemical reaction, but never really researched it.

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I understand that's due to the extremely low temperature of the co2 that causes the latex sealant to harden. Is that true?

 

 

Yip thats exacty it.

The change of phases from liquid to gas drops the temperature ot below freezing point of water which freezes the water in the sealant. 

When inflating with Co2 always use an adaptor with a flow control valve and make sure the valve is at the top of the wheel so the sealant is at the bottom.

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As an aside and at risk of stirring up a hornets nest... I wonder how different each sealant is to the other.... So many people have a favourite which they swear by that leads me to believe there are few cr@p ones out there?

Enduro Seal works well but stinks of ammonia as do many others.... Their bottle applicators are a cool idea with the tube. I've had serious velcroing issues with Enduro seal that might have been left a bit longer.

I wouldn't say that I swear by it, but I use Ryder's sealant. 

 

Reasons being: 

1. More cost effective alternative to some of the original brand imported stuff;

2. Local is lekker;

3. Haven't had issues with tyres losing pressure (except when the sidewalls start falling off the cliff).

 

Don't have any reason at present to consider another product as this works well with my Maxxis and C/dale home brand rims.

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I used LTX777 which I think I got off CWC. Filled up on Friday and inflated with a bomb as couldn't get the tyre to seat by itself.

The ride on Saturday was terrible. Tyre kept on deflating. Took it all apart today and the sealant was pretty much solid. I'd heard some sealants can turn solid from a bomb...looks like I found the one that does!

 

c29fcc15-2459-4b32-82cb-6f92a0035ea4.jpg

594f6808-345f-41bd-8d5a-5cbc274b1cc9.jpg

Also tried this stuff for a while. Its supposed to turn into foam and fill the air volume of the tyre while agitated, which sounds okay, but it turns into a tube in its own right, blocks valves, and dries out...

 

Went back to Enduroseal and no more hassles...

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