Upgrading Components - Is it worth it?

[BrettS]

Apologies if this thread exists elsewhere but I haven't found it.

 

I recently got into cycling again and decided not to splurge on a new bike and picked up a decentish 2nd hand bike.

I am loving the sport and am in a constant love hate relationship with my bike, possibly bike envy and the love for something new/ more upgraded.

I have a 29er hard tail, I love the look of my bike all the angles are great and aggressive but it has a Shimano Altus 3 x 9 drive train which I am not so happy with. 

So my questions are: is it possible to convert it to a 1 x 10/11/12? 

Is this a conversion that I could do? 

Or would it be better / more cost effective to simply buy something newer? 

[Mojoman]

I bought a bike 4 years back with 9 speed parts...Over the years by keeping an eye on the classifieds it was all upgraded except for the wheels ( 9mm QR so not many options). I would do it again. I just dont have the money to pay R30k for something with semi decent parts...
If you like your frame and you think you will continue with the sport 3 or 4 years down the road then upgrade...
(Or if you have plenty of dosh flog the bike and buy something better!_
(I went 1 x 10...would I do it again...probably not...Its certainly not cost effective in my opinion....It seems you have to replace every chain, chain ring and cassette everytime...9 speed cheaper in my opinion)

Edited October 25, 2021 by Mojoman

[117]

You'll have to change your shifter too,, maybe a hub as well - will depend on what you have at the mo

In answer to your question, yes. But it's a rabbit hole of never ending wants and upgrades.

[Titleist]

Buy something newer. If the bike has the Altus groupset, it means that the frame isn't so hot either so you'll spend more money on the groupset than what the bike is worth.

[Mojoman]

1 minute ago, Titleist said:

Buy something newer. If the bike has the Altus groupset, it means that the frame isn't so hot either so you'll spend more money on the groupset than what the bike is worth.

Disagree with this...Most bikes use the same frame and just use different parts as the price increases....

[Martin PJ]

Yes, upgrade. 1 x 11 Shimano Deore or SLX is great. There are plenty of people on the bikehub who sell what you would need to go 1x11. I use 1x10 Shimano SLX, very happy with it, but spares are hard to get (cassette mainly). You won't be able to go 1x12 without changing the rear hub.

Best part of 1x11 is that Shimano and SRAM are interchangeable - derailleurs, shifters, obviously cassette too.

Better brakes are a great upgrade too, SLX or Deore is my preference.

[BrettS]

It's an ongoing struggle. As much as I like my frame, the bike really isn't worth much.

The components / upgrades to be made:

- SR Suntour XCM 30 Forks / it is a tapered head tube so I believe that makes it easy to upgrade the forks?

- Shimano Altus 3 x 9 / would definitely like to upgrade

- Shimano crankset (not even sure which ones, probably 2015 or there abouts)

- Tektro hydraulic disc brakes / those seem pretty decent

- 100mm stem / would like to get a 50mm stem

- Don't think there is much I can do about the wheels unless I swap the whole wheel set. To achieve tubeless status.

I found a spec sheet on the bike. Maybe that makes it easier.

[Bondinator]

It all depends on the size of your freehub body. If its a standard Shimano freehub, you should be able to go straight through to 10, 11 or 12 speed. Sunrace makes 12 speed cassettes for the standard shimano freehub body and the NX and SX Sram cassettes should be the same too. Moving to a 1x groupset will make things much more simplistic, lighter and easier to maintain

The only challenge that you will have when selling the bike a year or two down the line after the upgrade is that you wont get your return on investment. I am experiencing this at the moment. Selling my Anthem that I upgraded to a 1x12  speed Sram GX groupset and a few extra bells and whistles, like carbon bars and seatpost, people want to compare it to other Anthems selling on the platform with stock standard 10 speed groupset that already looks long in the tooth. To the right person its worth the extra buck but to those that dont know what they are looking for, it will be a loss

[BrettS]

19 minutes ago, Bondinator said:

It all depends on the size of your freehub body. If its a standard Shimano freehub, you should be able to go straight through to 10, 11 or 12 speed. Sunrace makes 12 speed cassettes for the standard shimano freehub body and the NX and SX Sram cassettes should be the same too. Moving to a 1x groupset will make things much more simplistic, lighter and easier to maintain

The only challenge that you will have when selling the bike a year or two down the line after the upgrade is that you wont get your return on investment. I am experiencing this at the moment. Selling my Anthem that I upgraded to a 1x12  speed Sram GX groupset and a few extra bells and whistles, like carbon bars and seatpost, people want to compare it to other Anthems selling on the platform with stock standard 10 speed groupset that already looks long in the tooth. To the right person its worth the extra buck but to those that dont know what they are looking for, it will be a loss

That is a big issue and your bike is already a big brand name. A lot of new people like me get into the sport and purely look at price vs what really matters. ie. components on the bike.

My bike is a no name brand and I suppose if I were to upgrade the bike that would be for my benefit alone and I would need to ride it to make use of my investment. I wouldn't get my money back by selling it.

I am keen on buying a Titan Cypher - I will have to save up to make it happen and will have to continue to ride my current bike as is until I am able to make the jump up. 

[Rolf Hansen]

30 minutes ago, BrettS said:

That is a big issue and your bike is already a big brand name. A lot of new people like me get into the sport and purely look at price vs what really matters. ie. components on the bike.

My bike is a no name brand and I suppose if I were to upgrade the bike that would be for my benefit alone and I would need to ride it to make use of my investment. I wouldn't get my money back by selling it.

I am keen on buying a Titan Cypher - I will have to save up to make it happen and will have to continue to ride my current bike as is until I am able to make the jump up. 

This is correct. If you plan on riding it for a couple of years it should not be an issue.

I have a 2008 model Cannondale. It is a dual suspension and was fairly decently specified to begin with but only a 26".

I have since upgraded to 740mm Syncros bars, 60mm Specialized stem, 34T oval narrow-wide front chainring (running 1x9 at the moment), SRAM Level T brakes with 4 piston caliper upfront, 180mm Rapide brake rotors, Manitou Magnum 140mm fork and 27.5+ wheel upfront and Lyne dropper post.

Will I get my money back when I try to sell it? Not in a million years.

This bike is now awesome for me though and I love it.

Edited October 25, 2021 by Rolf Hansen

[RobertWhitehead]

11 minutes ago, BrettS said:

That is a big issue and your bike is already a big brand name. A lot of new people like me get into the sport and purely look at price vs what really matters. ie. components on the bike.

My bike is a no name brand and I suppose if I were to upgrade the bike that would be for my benefit alone and I would need to ride it to make use of my investment. I wouldn't get my money back by selling it.

I am keen on buying a Titan Cypher - I will have to save up to make it happen and will have to continue to ride my current bike as is until I am able to make the jump up. 

Ok, so here's my 2 cents: 

• You have a no name brand frame so this is the same as polishing a turD ????. 
• Are all the parts interchangeable on your no name frame to any other? Yip, they are. Your main sticking point will be the QR on both the fork and frame. This will cause you to not be able to upgrade to a decent fork (quickly - you do get decent QR forks but they're not as readily available)

So my suggestion: Start to upgrade the bike systematically i.e. upgrade the drive train, rear mech, cassette, shifter, chain ring. Then ride the bike for another month or two. Then swop the fork for something with a thru axle but then remember that you'll have to change the wheels as well to accommodate. Now you'll notice that the rear will remain QR to fit the frame, this will be easy enough to get. Then lastly wait for a decent frame and then carry all these parts over to the new frame. Now you have a whole new bike which you bought / upgraded over time.

I must warn you though: 

1. This can be a more expensive option and it does come with some additional risk, you may end up buying the wrong part or the part may be in bad shape
2. It is not an instant solution to your problem, this takes time to achieve.

But there's definite benefits to this approach:

1. You only buy a part when and if you can afford to do so.
2. Once you're done upgrading the bike it will be exactly the way you want it and there will not be something rubbish on the bike - unless you're still looking to upgrade that particular part.
3. You do not have to have a massive outlay of cash to get into the game, you already have a bike so it doesn't matter how long it takes to upgrade it ????.

I build bikes as a "side hustle" and will gladly help you to get down the road. 

[Rolf Hansen]

2 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

Ok, so here's my 2 cents: 

• You have a no name brand frame so this is the same as polishing a turD ????. 
• Are all the parts interchangeable on your no name frame to any other? Yip, they are. Your main sticking point will be the QR on both the fork and frame. This will cause you to not be able to upgrade to a decent fork (quickly - you do get decent QR forks but they're not as readily available)

So my suggestion: Start to upgrade the bike systematically i.e. upgrade the drive train, rear mech, cassette, shifter, chain ring. Then ride the bike for another month or two. Then swop the fork for something with a thru axle but then remember that you'll have to change the wheels as well to accommodate. Now you'll notice that the rear will remain QR to fit the frame, this will be easy enough to get. Then lastly wait for a decent frame and then carry all these parts over to the new frame. Now you have a whole new bike which you bought / upgraded over time.

I must warn you though: 

1. This can be a more expensive option and it does come with some additional risk, you may end up buying the wrong part or the part may be in bad shape
2. It is not an instant solution to your problem, this takes time to achieve.

But there's definite benefits to this approach:

1. You only buy a part when and if you can afford to do so.
2. Once you're done upgrading the bike it will be exactly the way you want it and there will not be something rubbish on the bike - unless you're still looking to upgrade that particular part.
3. You do not have to have a massive outlay of cash to get into the game, you already have a bike so it doesn't matter how long it takes to upgrade it ????.

I build bikes as a "side hustle" and will gladly help you to get down the road. 

100%. This is exactly what I did.

[KB280DT]

1 hour ago, BrettS said:

.....

- Don't think there is much I can do about the wheels unless I swap the whole wheel set. To achieve tubeless status.

.....

My daughter currently rides an Avalanche Prima Donna (really low end spec wise) and after the third bloody tube, I looked at going tubeless. With the help of @ChrisF we managed to do a tubeless conversion using her standard avalanche rims. Bought two tubeless tyres from Specialized (Butcher & Purgatory in 27.5") and haven't looked back. 

So I'd think that going tubeless with your current wheels should be possible - I'm sure some of the good folk here might have a 29ér tubeless tyre to pass on for testing before you fork out the $$$'s for new tyres.

[RobertWhitehead]

3 minutes ago, Rolf Hansen said:

100%. This is exactly what I did.

And this is way more rewarding than buying a complete bike off the shelf. All the parts have a story as to how you got hold of them as well as the "deal" you got. New bikes are over rated and not as much fun ????

Edited October 25, 2021 by RobertWhitehead
spelling error

[BrettS]

8 minutes ago, RobertWhitehead said:

Ok, so here's my 2 cents: 

• You have a no name brand frame so this is the same as polishing a turD ????. 
• Are all the parts interchangeable on your no name frame to any other? Yip, they are. Your main sticking point will be the QR on both the fork and frame. This will cause you to not be able to upgrade to a decent fork (quickly - you do get decent QR forks but they're not as readily available)

So my suggestion: Start to upgrade the bike systematically i.e. upgrade the drive train, rear mech, cassette, shifter, chain ring. Then ride the bike for another month or two. Then swop the fork for something with a thru axle but then remember that you'll have to change the wheels as well to accommodate. Now you'll notice that the rear will remain QR to fit the frame, this will be easy enough to get. Then lastly wait for a decent frame and then carry all these parts over to the new frame. Now you have a whole new bike which you bought / upgraded over time.

I must warn you though: 

1. This can be a more expensive option and it does come with some additional risk, you may end up buying the wrong part or the part may be in bad shape
2. It is not an instant solution to your problem, this takes time to achieve.

But there's definite benefits to this approach:

1. You only buy a part when and if you can afford to do so.
2. Once you're done upgrading the bike it will be exactly the way you want it and there will not be something rubbish on the bike - unless you're still looking to upgrade that particular part.
3. You do not have to have a massive outlay of cash to get into the game, you already have a bike so it doesn't matter how long it takes to upgrade it ????.

I build bikes as a "side hustle" and will gladly help you to get down the road. 

I am quite a handy guy and this would be a fun undertaking to try and build up the bike to where I want it to be. 
I predict there will be issues with buying the incorrect parts as I am not that clued up on the compatibility of parts and then having to go without riding until I am able to correct the issues.

I also thought that maybe buying a full suspension bike and keeping my current bike (as it's not worth selling) and then working on it as a project could be quite fun? Then I will always have something to ride until the project is complete? 

My wife will probably kill me no matter which direction I go in haha

[Chadvdw67]

Why not have a look at fitting 9 speed wide range cassete? That way all you need to do is remove big and small chainring, if they can be removed that is, and maybe fit a narrow wide chainring, if you left the front derailleur in place and just adjusted the limit screws you could get rid of the shifter as well

 

https://evobikes.co.za/product/sunrace-casette-csm980-9spd-11-40t-blk/

 

It may not be perfect, but it should work well enough, you wil probably need to add a derailleur hanger extender as well, but it is by far the cheapest option I would imagine

Edited October 25, 2021 by Chadvdw67