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CdT85

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Posts posted by CdT85

  1. Not sure if multiple bikes uploads are allowed...

    but here is my 2014 Merida Big 7 CF Team

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    Parts List:

    Suspension: 2014 Rockshox Sid XX

    Drive Train: 175mm Shimano Xt crank with 34T oval, XT M8000 shifter and derailleur, Sunrace 11-50, SLX chain

    Wheelset: WTB Frequency I 23 on Stans 3.30 with Alpina double butted spokes and nipples

    Brakes: Avid Elixir 5, with 180mm HS1 front and 170mm HS1 rear, semi metalic pads.

    Cockpit: Raceface Next 725mm Bars, Funn Stryge 70mm Stem, Spank spoon grips, Xfusion Hilo 100mm Dropper and Fizik Tundra 2 Saddle.

  2. I give you my 2015 Ibis Mojo HD3

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    Parts List:

    Suspension: 2018 Fox 32 RC2 Fit (3 volume spacers), 2017 Cane Creek Db Ail IL (5 volume spacers)

    Drive Train: 170mm Sram GX crank, Sram X1 shifter and derailleur, Sunrace 11-46, KMC chain

    Wheelset: Kore Realm 3.0 on Hope Pro 4 with Wheelsmith  spokes and nipples

    Brakes: Shimano XT M785, with 180mm Ice Tec Rotors front and rear, metalic finned pads. Updated the brake levers by replacing the plastic pistons with titanium alloy pistons.

    Cockpit: Truvativ Black Box Jerome Clementz 750mm Bars, Dartmoor Trail 50mm Stem, ODI Rogue Grips, Lyne 125mm Dropper post with under bar lever and Fabric Line Elite Saddle.

     

    Need new rubber and suspension service post lockdown

     

  3. I have the Big 7 XT Edition as my commuter.

     

    Nice thin tires (thin in MTB terms) works nicely.

     

    Even with the front fork semi locked it has just enough travel to soak up the road surface, without loosing too much energy

     

     

    If I was doing longer distances I would change the 3x to a 2x with a larger ring in front, to get more top speed.

     

     

     

    These 650B bikes are not the flavour of the month, and dirt cheap to pick up.  Nice tires, right gearing, and you have a very nice dual purpose bike.

    Lekker. I have the XO edition. Just had the XO logos removed at CBR, since I am running an mostly XT groupset. and my OCD wouldn't allow me to ride the frame like that :ph34r:

     

    I currently have WTB Frequency I-23 wrapped in 2.25 Onza Ibex/Cannis with a 34 oval on a 11-50 cassette on the bike. Spin out at about 45km/h on the tar road, and maybe 60km\h if I tuck on the descends. . Was thinking of going 2 x 10, with a road bike shift/brake levers and a dropped handlebar, putting slicks on and swapping my hydraulic brakes for mechanical to be able to use road bike shifters.

     

    Rocking a 100mm Sid XX up front, tempted to swop it for a fixed fork. The peeps at CBR said they can maybe hook me up with a set of carbon forks.

     

    Just wondering if I can fit 700c tyres on the bike or if I should stick to just 650b slicks. Cant keep up with my mate on his road bike with my current setup at all

  4. I broke my hd3's rear triangle last year and was looking at getting the Ripmo AF as a replacement. Lots of bike for a reasonable amount. Insurance ended up replacing my rear triangle, else i would have bought the Ripmo AF.

    Speak to William or the guys at Revolution about a demo bike. Once you go DW link, you will probably never go back

  5. Thank you!

     

    So I used the Rustoleum flat black primer after sanding and cleaning the frame with iso alcohol.

    The green is 2k spray but no hardener. Clearcoat is 2k with hardener

     

    Just note, the cans they put the 2k in has a adjustable nozzle on it. so you can turn the nozzle to get a different spray. Standard it sprays a straight line vertically, like a spray gun would. And first just spray off the frame somewhere to get it going.

     

    Thanx bud. Will give it a go :thumbup:

  6. So obviously the current paint had to be removed first...

     

    I wanted to take it in to get Hydro Blasted but the can of paint stripper in my garage was calling me and I just didnt have the patience to wait till Monday. Also, I want to see what the paint stripper will do to the current paint and if it is a case of just "rubbing off" the old paint.

     

    Don't be fooled friends. The old paint DOES NOT RUB OFF!!!

     

    So with my feet full of paint stripper and hand burning all over I managed to get to this after 2 days of paint stripping (I did have a kiddies party in between and in-laws visiting so it was short bursts of scraping every so often)

     

    attachicon.gifStripped pyga.jpg

     

    What primer did you use on the raw aluminium?

    And was the spray and clear coat the 2k spray with hardener?

     

    Busy rebuilding a Giant Reign and the raw frame is looking for a fresh new color scheme.

     

    Your spray projects is looking good btw.

  7. Reviving an old thread here.

     

    Stripped out mate's stuck down M7000 SLX lever last night and found that the piston/plunger head is mushroomed. And seems that my M785 XTs isn't far from reaching that point also.

     

    Found these kits on Ali Xpress. Works out to about R190 with shipping if anyone want to attempt to rebuild/revive their lever.

     

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973287602.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3c344c4d9QAbRL

     

    Lead time sux a bit, but will provide feedback on these and the rebuild process if and when they arrive one day

  8. Insist that they repair the scratch at their cost. 

     

    Not sure where OP is based, but Carbon Bike Repairs in Durbanville can do a repair (at the LBS's cost of course) on the scratch without having to respray the whole bike. Pricing and quality has been ok so far on repair work I had done by them, and the lead time is usually 5 to 10 working days

  9. If the head tube is 44mm internal, then you can install an external headset cup from cane creek that allows you to run a tapered steerer fork.

     

    I did this on a few of my previous frames.

     

    Just not sure how the external cup will influence your carbon head tube. Also note that you will lift your front end up by 10mm with the external cup, slackening your head angle, changing your seat angle and raising your bottom bracket

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