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Slowbee

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At least you are trying and learning while you are going Tchjina!

Its been fun so far, I think I have put in around 60 hours of work on that bench which doesnt show when you look at it. Youtube and the super helpful people in this thread has helped a lot though and Im enjoying the learning experience.

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Still trying to get this bench done, things take a lot longer than expected when you are either a noob like me or dont really have the right tool for the job.

Sorry if the updates get a bit annoying.

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Made a spacer that I routed/chiselled to the correct depth to space the vise from the top edge.

 

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Vise mounted in the centre, 420mm of glorious opening width. I had to do a *ton* of work on it before mounting. It had been old stock and had congealed oil on and needed quite a bit of fine tuning on the quick release mech. Some clean green and a rag along with removing manufacturing burrs in the nut assembly and it was good to go.

 

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Plugging dowels sanded flush, I initially tried a few things getting them flushed then gave up and borrowed a belt sander which made quick work of them.

 

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Wasnt super happy about messing with the structure but had to create a cutout for the rear assembly of the vise to use its full travel. I used a forstner bit followed by a chisel to take the minimum amount of wood off.

 

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First of the jaws to be mounted, I routed it out and covered my entire garage in sawdust. I was amazed how much mess it actually made!! 

 

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The jaw has a nice tight fit over the vise and has been marked to cut off the excess. I purposely left the top edge proud of the workbench so that I can plane everything flush when its all mounted. Typical of this whole build it was too late to start using the table saw last night so the cutting will happen this afternoon. Cross-cut sled with a sacrificial block for tearout should work quite well.

 

 

So hopefully will get the smaller recess routed on the second jaw and mounted this evening, then I can plane everything flush and start marking out the dog holes.

 

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Still trying to get this bench done, things take a lot longer than expected when you are either a noob like me or dont really have the right tool for the job.

Sorry if the updates get a bit annoying.

 

Its nice to see the progress. :thumbup:

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This is my latest project, a lunging circle. My horse doing a quick inspection of my work

 

 

 

attachicon.gif2DAE7086-4AEF-4FE0-8065-26D80B70C1CE.jpegattachicon.gifB2ED81FE-3838-433C-8806-19036C16DE8C.jpegattachicon.gif13DC75A8-C2CA-4241-A070-37D7EE5E695C.jpegattachicon.gif8FF52B0D-A030-4D08-8175-F7F3D69F32A0.jpeg

 

Gate still needs 2 coats of varnish

 

attachicon.gif10212165-9A28-4782-82BB-0D8821204414.jpeg

 

your woodcarving of that horse is incredibly lifelike. well done!

 

:P

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I am a bit frustrated at the moment:

 

Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels.

 

How do Hubbers plug dowels?

  • Use drill bits that are not common sizes?
  • Turn your own dowel pins?
  • Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?
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I am a bit frustrated at the moment:

 

Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels.

 

How do Hubbers plug dowels?

  • Use drill bits that are not common sizes?
  • Turn your own dowel pins?
  • Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?

 

I use their vernier.

 

I know its a ball ache, but rather drill 9mm hole for 10mm dowel.

 

For your current predicament: buy larger dowel, sand down to requirded od

 

Edit: fit bigger dowel in drill, grab 100grit paper and start working it down, goes quick

Edited by Ed-Zulu
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I am a bit frustrated at the moment:

 

Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels.

 

How do Hubbers plug dowels?

  • Use drill bits that are not common sizes?
  • Turn your own dowel pins?
  • Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?

 

Not all drill bits are necessarily the same.

Having different drill bit sets is handy for this purpose. A hole drilled with lip and spur bit may be different from say a standard twist bit given the same size. Doing test drills beforehand where tolerances/fit are important should be practiced.

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I am a bit frustrated at the moment:

 

Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels.

 

How do Hubbers plug dowels?

  • Use drill bits that are not common sizes?
  • Turn your own dowel pins?
  • Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?

 

 

 

Here you go...

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I am a bit frustrated at the moment:

 

Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels.

 

How do Hubbers plug dowels?

  • Use drill bits that are not common sizes?
  • Turn your own dowel pins?
  • Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?

 

I found the exact opposite to be true of the 19mm dowels I have used, they were all bigger than 19mm. I measured with a caliper and they vary between 19.11 and 20.02mm. Solution for me was to mount them between centers on the lathe and sand them down.

You could also cut to size and mount them in a drill press and sand or even a hand drill.

 

Its apparently a super common thing that store bought dowels are never the exact size.

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