Post your woodwork here

[DJR]

That's stunning; well done; your workbench looks better than the furniture in my house   

TBH, I would be quite apprehensive to use it for it's intended purpose; my idea of workbench is the cheapest wood I could find put together as quickly and sturdy as possible; definitely something I would feel sorry for. 

If I look at all the gouges, burns, saw and hammer marks on my work bench, then I also think I'm perhaps not worthy a bench like that  At best I'll add drool marks to it on the first day! 

Edited December 10, 2020 by DJR

[carrera4s]

Well done. I see there's a cut out for an end vise - what are you going to use for it?

 

Hi Stefmeister, I will only install a wagon vise, not a fully fledged end vise.  I will use a wooden screw as well for that.

 

I also plan a moxon vice for dovetailing etc. and also holdfasts for the surface.  So I do not think I need a full end vice.

[No Hare]

the joys of shaving

 

 

 

[patches]

I also immediately thought about 45 degree dowels, but also realised it can possibly be a pain to drill them accurately.

 

If you don't manage to drill that accurately, maybe oversize some of the holes and use some epoxy to fill the gaps.

 

Maybe a French Cleat could work. The 18mm to 20mm thickness might be a limiting factor though.

 

Why not make them as a two piece unit then the fitment would be perpendicular to each wall. Accuracy in aligning your fixings would get the tops flush.

 

It simple really, fasten to one wall as per your diagram, and make a slot (either rebate or dovetail if you feel adventurous) in the other edge that slides the shelf in perpendicular.

Also, 18-20 mm shelves are rather thin, unless you're going for an elegant look. Personally, 32-50 mm is ideal for floating shelves IMO.

As much as I prefer solid wood over ply/chipboard, it's a bit overkill to use solid hardwood for something that is not entirely visible, apart from the front edge. . The ones I've made before, I make a sandwich of 3 layers of veneered board. The middle 'layer' is basically hollow to allow for wall mounting slots. Edges are covered in either hardwood or if I can find 50 mm edge banding. 

 

2 pieces. 

top half and bottom cover. You are just worried about downward vertical support, so the bottom can just be a cosmetic plate. Then you can have simple, straight dowels. no need for fancy alignment so things slide on just ride. Also the bottom plate gives you a chance to add and hide wiring for undercounting strip lighting. and it's servicable if required.

 

French cleats may simplify the whole installation

 

My brother in law has quite a simple but strong solution for these situations.

He uses really long coach bolts screwed into the wall, you would only need to do one side, they are strong.

Next he cuts the bolt head off with an angle grinder which just leaves the threaded bar sticking out.

Hold up the edge of the shelf and mark the centers of the bolts. Drill slightly oversized holes and jam some construction adhesive in them.

Push the shelf on and its done.

 

Its surprising how strong they are, none of his shelves he did have sagged at all.

 

Thanks guys!

 

Some great replies and good ideas!

 

• Epoxy and wiggle room. Good idea for if I try the 45deg dowels and totally stuff it, hahaha!
• I do like a french cleat, but yeah, as stated it may be tricky with only 18-20mm material thickness.
• The perpendicular dowel on 1 side and dovetail on the other is a great idea. My dovetail experience is nil, but I have access to a router table so can run some tests pieces through. grain alignment may be tricky (or not possible) due to the material being removed for the depth of the dovetail, but I can't have everything, right! As for the thickness and laminating etc. These shelves are going to be very shallow (like 100mm) at about 200mm above the kitchen counter. So the top would be the most visible part. And I kept them thin in proportion to how shallow they are... and also because I'm cheap and lazy and have already milled some 20mm thick boards 
• I did think about doing it in 2 pieces. In fact I even tried to gauge if the missus would be happy with 2 separate shelves. I may have to get rid of the mitred corner as one wouldn't be able to slide the second piece in perpendicular with the first one in place (or I'm just visualising it all wrong, haha)
• Top & bottom halves could be possible. Even though my stock is only 18-20mm thick, I could hollow it out and create the 2 clam shells. Side Note: I am adding some LED strips under the cabinets on one of the sides. Originally went with Philips Hue, but the LED/m spacing is terrible (think it's like 30/m), and even with a frosted diffuser channel the spotting is really bad and looks like a kebab shop sign. I ended up buying a single colour (4000K) with 240LEDs/m and wired it to the Hue controller. It looks great. Even though I don't have the full colour spectrum, I can still control it with the Hue Bridge and my Samsung Smartthings setup.Anyway, lighting is a whole other battle
• Coach Bolts. I actually went and bought some yesterday. M10x180mm bolts will more than suffice. I bought them in the event that the missus approves the 2 separate shelf idea. I also marked out the wall stud location (which I would need either way). But yeah, coach bolts, directly into the studs with a simple jig to make sure they're perpendicular, then 10mm holes into the back of the wood. That's a recipe for a string and simple solution. Maybe a combination of that, with carrera4s' slightly slotted hole idea, and possible like a set-screw system from underneath would enable one to have perpendicular coach bolts and still slide a corner shelf into place. hmmmm!

Anyway, lots of food for though. Thanks for all the responses. I'll go and do some more option modelling and see if I can find one that my limited hands-on skills can manufacture 

[stefmeister]

Thanks guys!

 

Some great replies and good ideas!

 

• Epoxy and wiggle room. Good idea for if I try the 45deg dowels and totally stuff it, hahaha!
• I do like a french cleat, but yeah, as stated it may be tricky with only 18-20mm material thickness.
• The perpendicular dowel on 1 side and dovetail on the other is a great idea. My dovetail experience is nil, but I have access to a router table so can run some tests pieces through. grain alignment may be tricky (or not possible) due to the material being removed for the depth of the dovetail, but I can't have everything, right! As for the thickness and laminating etc. These shelves are going to be very shallow (like 100mm) at about 200mm above the kitchen counter. So the top would be the most visible part. And I kept them thin in proportion to how shallow they are... and also because I'm cheap and lazy and have already milled some 20mm thick boards 
• I did think about doing it in 2 pieces. In fact I even tried to gauge if the missus would be happy with 2 separate shelves. I may have to get rid of the mitred corner as one wouldn't be able to slide the second piece in perpendicular with the first one in place (or I'm just visualising it all wrong, haha)
• Top & bottom halves could be possible. Even though my stock is only 18-20mm thick, I could hollow it out and create the 2 clam shells. Side Note: I am adding some LED strips under the cabinets on one of the sides. Originally went with Philips Hue, but the LED/m spacing is terrible (think it's like 30/m), and even with a frosted diffuser channel the spotting is really bad and looks like a kebab shop sign. I ended up buying a single colour (4000K) with 240LEDs/m and wired it to the Hue controller. It looks great. Even though I don't have the full colour spectrum, I can still control it with the Hue Bridge and my Samsung Smartthings setup.Anyway, lighting is a whole other battle
• Coach Bolts. I actually went and bought some yesterday. M10x180mm bolts will more than suffice. I bought them in the event that the missus approves the 2 separate shelf idea. I also marked out the wall stud location (which I would need either way). But yeah, coach bolts, directly into the studs with a simple jig to make sure they're perpendicular, then 10mm holes into the back of the wood. That's a recipe for a string and simple solution. Maybe a combination of that, with carrera4s' slightly slotted hole idea, and possible like a set-screw system from underneath would enable one to have perpendicular coach bolts and still slide a corner shelf into place. hmmmm!

Anyway, lots of food for though. Thanks for all the responses. I'll go and do some more option modelling and see if I can find one that my limited hands-on skills can manufacture 

 

well if it's only 100 mm wide shelves, keep it even simpler and just use pocket holes from the bottom. Maybe a dowel or cut off coach screw (as someone else suggested) for extra insurance. 

Edited December 11, 2020 by stefmeister

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

@patch

 

This is how I'd do it. Simple, easy, no fuss. Because it's in a corner you can get away with this as it'll be braced on 2 sides, so no need for dowels or anything fancy. And this way, you get your solid wood look with no breaks in the grain. Just stop 10mm short of the end of the slabs, and you're good.

Edited December 11, 2020 by Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

[stefmeister]

@patch

 

This is how I'd do it. Simple, easy, no fuss. Because it's in a corner you can get away with this as it'll be braced on 2 sides, so no need for dowels or anything fancy. And this way, you get your solid wood look with no breaks in the grain. Just stop 10mm short of the end of the slabs, and you're good.

 

That's pretty much how I do it.

[Rocket-Boy]

That's stunning; well done; your workbench looks better than the furniture in my house   

TBH, I would be quite apprehensive to use it for it's intended purpose; my idea of workbench is the cheapest wood I could find put together as quickly and sturdy as possible; definitely not something I would feel sorry for. 

I have seen mr Carrera use Rosewood for simple stop blocks on a drill press fence, he doesnt joke around

Im sure it will only be used for tasks that arent going to cause damage, its just way too nice for general purpose stuff.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

That's pretty much how I do it.

Yeah, foolproof for a corner / nook shelf. That 2 sides bracing is what you need.

 

For a normal shelf, this is what I do

 

https://youtu.be/wki3wMAbtLg

[patches]

@patch

 

This is how I'd do it. Simple, easy, no fuss. Because it's in a corner you can get away with this as it'll be braced on 2 sides, so no need for dowels or anything fancy. And this way, you get your solid wood look with no breaks in the grain. Just stop 10mm short of the end of the slabs, and you're good.

 

Nice simple method. I may have to up the thickness of the material. Although I would probably route a 10mm slot down the centre of each wall interfacing edge. That would still give 4-5mm thickness above and below the cleat, and the cleat (at 10mm) would be wide enough to accommodate the fasteners.

 

However, my better half is still undecided on the whole idea (mostly concerned about drilling into the brand new tiles (which are being installed as we speak).

 

So I pivoted (becasue I had freetime and wanted to make sawdust) and decided to make a cutting board with the spare maple I had lying around. cut, faced, jointed and clued up the boards on Saturday. Need to go back to the Men's Shed to unclamp and plane it.

 

Basic design will be similar to the Ikea Lamplig lipped board (but out of hard maple instead of bamboo)

 

[Rich Stan]

Hi guys,

 

I have come across this Hegner Multicut 2s scroll saw and have been asked to make an offer on it.

 

Any idea what a fair price would be, it is in as new condition.

[carrera4s]

Hi guys,

 

I have come across this Hegner Multicut 2s scroll saw and have been asked to make an offer on it.

 

Any idea what a fair price would be, it is in as new condition.

 

Sjo, that looks like a proper scroll saw:

 

https://www.hegner.co.uk/hegner-multicut-2s-scrollsaw-230v-100w.html

 

£ 766.80 = R 15 000 (but out of stock)

 

or:

 

https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/machinery-power-tools/scroll-saws/saw-scroll-multicut-2s-hegner-single-speed-110200000-detail?flypage=flypage.tpl&keyword=m024

 

A$ 1,878.45   = R 20 000

 

I see Jet also have such an expensive scroll saw:

 

https://www.toolcraft.co.za/collections/jet/products/jet-jwss-22b-scroll-saw-base-stand

 

R 18 000.

 

 

Normally a fair second hand price would be 60% - 80% for as-new condition..  So it depends on whether you need such an expensive scroll saw...

 

You can get much cheaper ones on Gumtree etc. (I paid R 1800 for a JET one (not the one on the Toolcraft website, though)).

 

Chat to the seller and see what he paid, negotiate from there.

[bertusras]

Decided to install some T-Track sliders for my future router fence. The little Bosch palm sander that I bought on Black Friday made this an absolute breeze.

 

 

And another reason why 3D printers are important

 

[Capricorn]

Decided to install some T-Track sliders for my future router fence. The little Bosch palm sander that I bought on Black Friday made this an absolute breeze.

 

 

 

And another reason why 3D printers are important

 

so you need a 3D printer to replace a chisel?

 

jibes aside, that's pretty neat

[Rocket-Boy]

Decided to install some T-Track sliders for my future router fence. The little Bosch palm sander that I bought on Black Friday made this an absolute breeze.

 

And another reason why 3D printers are important

 

Did you design the end cap yourself? Its a cool idea.

[bertusras]

so you need a 3D printer to replace a chisel?

 

jibes aside, that's pretty neat

 

Oh Takums, the damage I would cause to myself with a chisel is far greater than it needs to be...

 

Did you design the end cap yourself? Its a cool idea.

 

I did, but obviously it was a very simple and straightforward design.