Post your woodwork here

[LeTurbo]

I thought I'd just add some trouble here, because I'm feeling ornery.

 

As far as I know, linseed oil is still a major component of most varnishes and paints. The classic equation, used by artists, is that each coat must be oilier than the previous one. And some of those artworks have lasted centuries.

 

I think that's why most varnishes say to do a first coat with 30% turps added, then about 10% for the next coat, and the final straight coat. With Woodoc, you keep the surface wet for 10 minutes, so the varnish really gets absorbed. 

 

There's also the difference between a wood preservative and a varnish. As I understand it, a preservative sinks in deeper and perhaps has antimicrobial additives. And you can use a varnish over a preservative. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

(On the other hand. I've heard of someone who first paints his outdoor woodwork with a lot of raw linseed oil, then primer, undercoat and topcoat. It seems the primer bonds better with the oil in the wood.)

 

My experience with the new water-based "enamels": avoid, avoid, avoid! They're harder to apply a decent finish as the paint goops and blots more; they don't dry particularly well and, for example, a door will stick to its frame and take off small amounts of topcoat; they always have a slightly sticky feel unless you wax or polish the paintwork, and they're terrible for any surface that gets wet, like tabletops. The water-based varnishes have slight uses, primarily as a "quick seal" on the top, bottom and sides of a door or window that needs to be installed and painted the same day. I'd never use them on anything that needs to look and feel good. 

[Warthog]

I thought I'd just add some trouble here, because I'm feeling ornery.

 

As far as I know, linseed oil is still a major component of most varnishes and paints. The classic equation, used by artists, is that each coat must be oilier than the previous one. And some of those artworks have lasted centuries.

 

I think that's why most varnishes say to do a first coat with 30% turps added, then about 10% for the next coat, and the final straight coat. With Woodoc, you keep the surface wet for 10 minutes, so the varnish really gets absorbed. 

 

There's also the difference between a wood preservative and a varnish. As I understand it, a preservative sinks in deeper and perhaps has antimicrobial additives. And you can use a varnish over a preservative. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

(On the other hand. I've heard of someone who first paints his outdoor woodwork with a lot of raw linseed oil, then primer, undercoat and topcoat. It seems the primer bonds better with the oil in the wood.)

 

My experience with the new water-based "enamels": avoid, avoid, avoid! They're harder to apply a decent finish as the paint goops and blots more; they don't dry particularly well and, for example, a door will stick to its frame and take off small amounts of topcoat; they always have a slightly sticky feel unless you wax or polish the paintwork, and they're terrible for any surface that gets wet, like tabletops. The water-based varnishes have slight uses, primarily as a "quick seal" on the top, bottom and sides of a door or window that needs to be installed and painted the same day. I'd never use them on anything that needs to look and feel good. 

I don't do woodwork like you lot, bit I love old things, and have restored a fair amount of old furniture and stuff....

 

And I agree with most said... don't know about the linseed oil though... but after properly cleaning old wood I use Woodoc - first coat 50-50 with turps, then 60-40, then 80-20 and then good ole pure Woodoc, with light wipe with steel wool in between.

[Warthog]

Some of my recent "projects"...

 

Kitchen re-done Dec 2014 - entirely with Oregon wood floor planks recovered from a demolished house. (which I got for free....)

 

 

 

Butcher's block made at same time.

 

 

Top was saturated with liquid paraffin.

[Plentipotential]

I use Danish oil for all indoor pieces, fantastic. Have recently used Waxsol on teak outdoor furniture as well as my owl box and bee hive. Works well.

[DJR]

Someone gave me the handiest little camping stove, but it came in the most useless piece of flastic box that always popped open. Also, it had no room for a gas canister or two and the flimsy box made it difficult to pack in the Landy where things get bashed around a fair bit. So, I made a plywood box from bits I had lying around. All I had to buy were the hinges. The leather handle can lie flat and lift up if you pull on it. This here thread inspired me not to use the usual easy and lazy glue and panel pins method.......sorry if it is a bit rough and tumble, but that is what it is made for. To get my stove to the wilderness in a state to make a decent espresso when I get there!

[LeTurbo]

Someone gave me the handiest little camping stove, but it came in the most useless piece of flastic box that always popped open. Also, it had no room for a gas canister or two and the flimsy box made it difficult to pack in the Landy where things get bashed around a fair bit. So, I made a plywood box from bits I had lying around. All I had to buy were the hinges. The leather handle can lie flat and lift up if you pull on it. This here thread inspired me not to use the usual easy and lazy glue and panel pins method.......sorry if it is a bit rough and tumble, but that is what it is made for. To get my stove to the wilderness in a state to make a decent espresso when I get there!

Nicely done on the box joints, DJR. They look fantastic in plywood. The box'll make that espresso a whole lot richer and more rewarding. 

[LeTurbo]

Some of my recent "projects"...

 

Kitchen re-done Dec 2014 - entirely with Oregon wood floor planks recovered from a demolished house. (which I got for free....)

 

 

Did you get the free house before or after it was demolished? 

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist. 

[Warthog]

Did you get the free house before or after it was demolished? 

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist. 

     That's what happens when you think in Afr and write in English.... the Oregon was free...

Edited September 4, 2016 by Warthog

[Lotus]

This has become my favorite thread since they culled the (original) Ladies and Bikes thread!

[porqui]

This has become my favorite thread since they culled the (original) Ladies and Bikes thread!

 

Sad day that was !!

[DJR]

Nicely done on the box joints, DJR. They look fantastic in plywood. The box'll make that espresso a whole lot richer and more rewarding. 

The plywood joints do look cool.

[Eddy Gordo]

http://67.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lwdz5eDOzn1r4ejnio1_500.gif

[porqui]

This is what you do if don't have a Skil saw - never mind the safety codes(what are those?)

Some guys putting up a palisade fence across the road.

 

BTW - thats the large size grinder not the little one.

Edited September 5, 2016 by porqui

[dev null]

This is what you do if don't have a Skil saw - never mind the safety codes(what are those?)

Some guys putting up a palisade fence across the road.

 

Ja well, no fine.

 

I just don't want to stand close when that blade gets pinched in whatever is being cut. 

[kosmonooit]

This is what you do if don't have a Skil saw - never mind the safety codes(what are those?)

Some guys putting up a palisade fence across the road.

 

 

Beware the kick back on that bad boy! workmen here do what the funk they want, safety ... ?  voetsek!

 

I came across some guys fabricating some security bars for a client recently (school nogal), no safety glasses whilst angle grinding is generally a given here, but not only this, these guys were arc welding the cage with no welding helmet / glasses!

Edited September 5, 2016 by kosmonooit

[Grebel]

In most cases you could replace Health and Safety with Common Sense. I am still of the opinion that we should remove ALL warning labels off of EVERYTHING and let nature/Darwin sort their **** out. Won't take long... Nice thing about that is that you are constantly doing housekeeping. You will always be refining the herd.....