Enduro/gravity bike suspension and geo

[Jewbacca]

1 minute ago, thebob said:

Each to their own. If you find a setup that works for you then go with it. With my setup I only bottom out if I hit something too hard or make a big mistake

For sure. I am by no means saying I'm right, but if I'm not using all of my travel most of the time, then I'd want to.

I also set up at 30% sag, not 20. I want my suspension to fill in the brake bumps and chatter and keep me in contact with the ground as much as possible. Grip is life. 

These days I'm also basically James May, so don't take anything I say seriously. Moss grew on my wheels on some places at the Hoogekraal enduro

[PhilipV]

9 hours ago, StevieG said:

Was looking at cushcore, but hard to find locally. Running DHF2 front and rear, and so far so good, no punctures or rim dings yet. Not too fussed with the weight, but was also thinking along the lines of getting a faster rolling rear tyre with cushcore, and then keeping the dhf on the front.

A mate of mine was supposed too land a shipment of Cushcore a while ago. I think they are in Customs. They'll be hitting the market soon, and I'll post here when they are available. 

1 hour ago, Thermophage said:

 

But honestly a good shifting spanner is the easiest and still safe as it's basically un-chamfered.

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Fortunately my Revelation uses a cassette tool, so my big spanners stays at home. 

1 hour ago, Jewbacca said:

Anything I ride or have ridden for years. 100mm to 150mm... Various Pikes, A Yari, Fox Factory 34 and 36 and currently a Cane Creek Helm. 

I have always worked on the fact that if it doesn't bottom out, it's wrong.

me too. I ride my forks softer, and with more progression. I'm an old school softy MTBer. 

[Thermophage]

3 minutes ago, PhilipV said:

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Tell that to the vast majority of mechanics in the world

[Trashy]

44 minutes ago, PhilipV said:

A mate of mine was supposed too land a shipment of Cushcore a while ago. I think they are in Customs. They'll be hitting the market soon, and I'll post here when they are available. 

An adjustable tool is never the right tool.  Why dont you guys have 24mm spanners? 

Fortunately my Revelation uses a cassette tool, so my big spanners stays at home. 

me too. I ride my forks softer, and with more progression. I'm an old school softy MTBer. 

More progression makes it harder to bottom out for lighter riders though.

I worked closely with frame designers for a number of years, as well as with a world cup dh team and the consensus from frame manufacturers and suspension companies alike was that your suspension should be set up to bottom out on the worst hit you'll encounter in any particular ride.

[Grease_Monkey]

10 hours ago, StevieG said:

Was looking at cushcore, but hard to find locally. Running DHF2 front and rear, and so far so good, no punctures or rim dings yet. Not too fussed with the weight, but was also thinking along the lines of getting a faster rolling rear tyre with cushcore, and then keeping the dhf on the front.

Some good news for you. We (THBC Distribution) are the new importers for SA. Our first stock is being delivered tomorrow evening, so from next week it will be freely available in SA again

Edited December 7, 2021 by Grease_Monkey

[RiverInTheRoad]

You need to bottom front and back at least once a ride. Thats why the travel is there. If you don't you are overbiked for that trail or your suspension setup is too stiff for your riding style.

Unfortunately most of us run Gwin pressures with kook skills. 

[StevieG]

14 hours ago, RiverInTheRoad said:

You need to bottom front and back at least once a ride. Thats why the travel is there. If you don't you are overbiked for that trail or your suspension setup is too stiff for your riding style.

Unfortunately most of us run Gwin pressures with kook skills. 

That's an interesting take on the subject, and haven't thought about it like that. I've only ever bottomed out my shock, and fork has been fine. 120mm shock, and 130mm fork. Am also the type of rider that sets and forgets, and actually have no clue as to how the bike "should" feel while cornering, jumping, etc. It just feels right, and I have no need to change anything.

[BaGearA]

if you havent seen stanchions under a microscope then you wouldn't know that they are full of millions and millions of tiny holes 

 

those holes trap oil 

 

when bottoming your fork the tips pf the stanchions usually touch the puddle of oil near the bottom out bumper 

 

this oil is then pulled up past the second bush and sits in the middle of the lower for A short while again.

 

THIS IS A GOOD THING 

 

blikseming your fork that sounds come from your crown obviously isnt good but Bottoming your fork is not a bad thing at all 

[Wheelie87]

On 12/7/2021 at 9:13 AM, thebob said:

I have my Pike working very nicely with the following methodology (start with everything full open):

20% sag

Rebound set so the wheel doesn't jump off the floor when doing a big fast compression

HSC backed all the way out then one click in

LSC at 12 clicks from full closed. I found a nice spot where it help me up under braking, but wasn't too soft

Try a xSixx Foamo. Pretty light for the wide single ply version and should help keep the rims in one piece

Tried these recommended settings this AM on Armageddon (Jonkershoek) - felt very decent.
I added a few loose PSI's so I'm just peaking over 100 (RS recommends 110-115)
The forks felt stiffer less plush over rocks but experienced less (perceived) arm pump and had a very lekker decent.
O-ring sitting pretty underlining the DebonAir signage after the ride which I feel is a win.

[thebob]

The oil migrates up to the bushings via splash lubrication action, bottoming has nothing to do with it.

[Rock Guy]

23 hours ago, Thermophage said:

Currently the Big Betty 275x2.4 in Addix Soft (kinda like MaxxTerra). I have another brand new one for sale (shameless plug) if you are on 275 - not available in RSA because nobody talks about casing with any regularity here, so importers don't (generally) either . My current go to rear tyre is actually the Spez Butcher in Grid Gravity for both grip, rolling resistance (yes, it rolls better than the DHR2 and the Big Betty in my experience) and sidewall protection.

The Grid Gravity is stronger than a DoubleDown and an lighter than Maxass DH. The SuperGravity is stronger than the DH from Maxxis and similar weights...I have a spreadsheet if anyone is interested.

I'm tempted to take you up on the offer, but the Specialized Butcher was actually going to be what I put on next. Sounds like you just confirmed this would be the best option anyway. I had the previous gen Grid Butcher on before I swapped to Maxxis, Even those were pretty good. Rolled MUCH better than the Assegai and had just the right amount of drift. Couldn't fault the casing too much, but then I was using Cushcore anyways. I believe the Grid Gravity is a bit stiffer than the old Grid?

This is the one right?

https://www.specialized.com/za/en/butcher-grid-gravity-2bliss-ready-t9/p/187348?color=300426-187348&searchText=00121-0041

And here I thought I was the only person left in SA running 275 wheels.

[Thermophage]

42 minutes ago, Rock Guy said:

I'm tempted to take you up on the offer, but the Specialized Butcher was actually going to be what I put on next. Sounds like you just confirmed this would be the best option anyway. I had the previous gen Grid Butcher on before I swapped to Maxxis, Even those were pretty good. Rolled MUCH better than the Assegai and had just the right amount of drift. Couldn't fault the casing too much, but then I was using Cushcore anyways. I believe the Grid Gravity is a bit stiffer than the old Grid?

This is the one right?

https://www.specialized.com/za/en/butcher-grid-gravity-2bliss-ready-t9/p/187348?color=300426-187348&searchText=00121-0041

And here I thought I was the only person left in SA running 275 wheels.

Legend. Thats the one, T9 and T7 is the compound, Grid Gravity the casing you want for the rear for sure IMO and Grid Trail if you putting it on the front. I run 2.6 at present, but only cos thats all that was available. 2.3 will fit more rear triangles.

Edited December 8, 2021 by Thermophage

[Headshot]

19 hours ago, RiverInTheRoad said:

You need to bottom front and back at least once a ride. Thats why the travel is there. If you don't you are overbiked for that trail or your suspension setup is too stiff for your riding style.

Unfortunately most of us run Gwin pressures with kook skills. 

Its getting ludicrous - all this bottoming out that you guys feel you need. Now its a mark of your riding skills, bravery or lack thereof or your addiction to excess travel. Sorry manne, I'll try bottom out some more next ride 😉 

[RiverInTheRoad]

43 minutes ago, Headshot said:

Its getting ludicrous - all this bottoming out that you guys feel you need. Now its a mark of your riding skills, bravery or lack thereof or your addiction to excess travel. Sorry manne, I'll try bottom out some more next ride 😉 

Please do, I personally don not feel fullfilled unless I have that reverberating steel-on-steel sensation through the handlebars at least once a ride.

[Headshot]

8 minutes ago, RiverInTheRoad said:

Please do, I personally don not feel fullfilled unless I have that reverberating steel-on-steel sensation through the handlebars at least once a ride.

Steel on steel - what are you riding - a Makro Cannondale? 

[Trashy]

Just confused why anyone would buy a bike with X amount of travel, if they don't intend on using it?

Do you also drive a fortuner that never sees a dirt road?