Jewbacca Posted May 8, 2022 Share 24 minutes ago, ChrisF said: And so the time came to service my bike ... Bought the new chain .... so busy making sure it is rated for the ebike I took the 116 link instead of the 126 .... jip, too short. Bought new brake pads .... nope, must move the pads back to fit it ... carefully the bleed hose (had to go buy some hose first), open the bleed nipple at the caliper and move the pads back .... New pads fitted ... follow the normal pot on the bars process .... nope !! All the air is out, but the bite point stays on the bars .... Watched some Parktool videos .... tried the strap on the brake lever ... nope. Just cant get the bite point higher. Four pot Shimano brakes. O.well .... back to Mark tomorrow .... PS . I built up a new brake set, Shimano 2 pot, a few months back ... from routing new hoses through the frame, new bleed of the system ... I am comfortable with brakes .... but this is the second time this particular set has me stumped. PPS . I did a lot of searching, but did not find a thread on bleeding the 4 pot Shimano brakes. Screw the pot or a syringe into the bleed port on the lever (after you level the lever). Put some fresh fluid in there, pump the brakes with the brake block in. Air will rise and the bite point will return. You shouldn't open the bleed valve to push the pistons back. Just push them back. They had new pads in once and the fluid has likely not expanded. I use a sram brake block on my 4 pot shimano brakes. One side is tapered so you can slide it in between the pistons and push them back evenly. They started off mazambaan, ChrisF and Jackal355 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewbacca Posted May 8, 2022 Share On the maintenance front, I just put brand new pivot bearings in my dual suss, replaced the chain, checked everything, then sold it. I am back on my steel 140mm SS and rigid SS steel MTBs because maintenance is dumb, parts are asspensive and I honestly don't need anything more. I reckon if I could comfortably do Ezelenduro on my trail bike and Freedom Challenge on my other bike, there isn't much in my 'leisure' riding that will have me wishing for all the fancy kit vs having money to waste on other stuff I don't need but is justifiable because it's not bikes..... TyronLab 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazambaan Posted May 9, 2022 Share 11 hours ago, Jewbacca said: Screw the pot or a syringe into the bleed port on the lever (after you level the lever). Put some fresh fluid in there, pump the brakes with the brake block in. Air will rise and the bite point will return. You shouldn't open the bleed valve to push the pistons back. Just push them back. They had new pads in once and the fluid has likely not expanded. I use a sram brake block on my 4 pot shimano brakes. One side is tapered so you can slide it in between the pistons and push them back evenly. They started off Agree with attaching the pot or syringe to the reservoir. There is only a tiny amount of fluid (to me after car and m/bike brakes) so you really have to be careful not to add air into the system. Also make sure there are no hollows / low points in the line between the reservoir and calliper (where air could sit doing its evil work). Even detach the caliper if needed. ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzie NL Posted May 9, 2022 Share On 4/29/2022 at 8:37 AM, LuckyLuke said: same here...my xo1 12 speed group sets almost gone, Shimano deore looks cheap and bulletproof...😅 You'll regret that downgrade ...... alot M L 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoG Posted May 9, 2022 Share 9 minutes ago, Ossie NL said: You'll regret that downgrade ...... alot Nothing wrong with a SLX cassette, a bit heavy but that's it. I would however pair it with a XT derailleur. ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadvdw67 Posted May 9, 2022 Share 15 hours ago, ChrisF said: And so the time came to service my bike ... Bought the new chain .... so busy making sure it is rated for the ebike I took the 116 link instead of the 126 .... jip, too short. Bought new brake pads .... nope, must move the pads back to fit it ... carefully the bleed hose (had to go buy some hose first), open the bleed nipple at the caliper and move the pads back .... New pads fitted ... follow the normal pot on the bars process .... nope !! All the air is out, but the bite point stays on the bars .... Watched some Parktool videos .... tried the strap on the brake lever ... nope. Just cant get the bite point higher. Four pot Shimano brakes. O.well .... back to Mark tomorrow .... PS . I built up a new brake set, Shimano 2 pot, a few months back ... from routing new hoses through the frame, new bleed of the system ... I am comfortable with brakes .... but this is the second time this particular set has me stumped. PPS . I did a lot of searching, but did not find a thread on bleeding the 4 pot Shimano brakes. Santa Cruz Syndicate put up a video on how they bleed the Shimano Saints, same principle should apply to your brakes, they do warn that it wastes a fair bit of fluid, but maybe it is worth a watch...... https://youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE Edited May 9, 2022 by Chadvdw67 Video link added ChrisF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzie NL Posted May 9, 2022 Share 56 minutes ago, TheoG said: Nothing wrong with a SLX cassette, a bit heavy but that's it. I would however pair it with a XT derailleur. Hmm shifting not as crisp ...X01 is expensive but you'll miss it if you don't have it anymore....A bit like women MTBRIDER1234, MajG and ChrisF 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted May 9, 2022 Share 3 hours ago, mazambaan said: Agree with attaching the pot or syringe to the reservoir. There is only a tiny amount of fluid (to me after car and m/bike brakes) so you really have to be careful not to add air into the system. Also make sure there are no hollows / low points in the line between the reservoir and calliper (where air could sit doing its evil work). Even detach the caliper if needed. You can buy mineral oil suitable for Shimano and other brakes in bulk eg 1l bottles from motor parts stores. Total make make mineral hydraulic fluid as do Castrol I believe. Nice to have a bulk supply when messing with tricky brakes. BTW I'm running some old 785 XT brakes and they're generally good but sometimes lose oil (its as if it evaporates as there's no visible leaking. The front brakes just goes soft and barely works and the fix is quite simple - screw in the Shimano bleed cup, add fluid and then pump the lever watching a bunch of bubbles leave the system. This is usually all that's necessary and I don't mess with the caliper at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted May 9, 2022 Share On 4/29/2022 at 9:49 AM, Headshot said: I forgot to mention the other issues in the fleet. wife's bike needs a rear shock service (R1.5k) , its making weird squishy noises, and a new chain and possibly also a new cassette. Already have a new chain but I'm a little scared to fit it in case it leads to more expense 🙂 My HT need a new dropper post or an expensive repair to the existing one (thanks Spesh). My enduro bike rear wheel is basically toast - new rim and spoke time is around the corner. I bought a strap wrench from Brights this morning and the next step is to dismantle and inspect the Spesh dropper post. I suspect it will only confirm what I know already and that's that it will need a rebuild and an expensive new stanchion. I see a Lyne dropper in my future. Scarily, the second hand prices seem to have skyrocketed with people asking the same as or more than the new prices... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoG Posted May 9, 2022 Share 1 hour ago, Ossie NL said: Hmm shifting not as crisp ...X01 is expensive but you'll miss it if you don't have it anymore....A bit like women Are you referring to Derore/XLS specifically or Shimano 12sp in general? I'm running XT and XTR 12sp combo with the Archer D1x Trial shifter, the shifting is not only very good & crisp, its perfect (even under power), don't think shifting can get any better .... _David_ and justinafrika 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzie NL Posted May 9, 2022 Share 11 minutes ago, TheoG said: Are you referring to Derore/XLS specifically or Shimano 12sp in general? I'm running XT and XTR 12sp combo with the Archer D1x Trial shifter, the shifting is not only very good & crisp, its perfect (even under power), don't think shifting can get any better .... Deore / XLS specifically. XT and XTR is good and not that much cheaper than X01 PS; Deore Brakes are actually very good especially for the price point. _David_ and TheoG 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmarc Posted June 19, 2022 Share So My trusted KS LEV 31.6 - 125 Dropper post developed a sag after years of working like a swiss watch. Even more frustrating is that KS don't have an importer in SA anymore, so any spares need to come from online guys overseas, which would probably be cheaper to buy a new dropper from the likes of Lynne. Not to be deterred i went onto the University of YouTube and Google landed me on the this MTBR forum page https://www.mtbr.com/threads/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild.899659/ I decided to ignore standard "Do not try this at Home" BS and go down the rabbit hole and repair it myself - KS LEV insist that the cartridge cannot be repaired and could result in serious injury or even death (Really !!) I managed to get most of the seals & "O rings listed in the post from BMG and after three cartridge assembly attempts its back to working like a swiss watch, total cost about 300 ronds which included 500ml of fork oil of which I used about 100ml. A new cartridge is about 100 USD online excluding shipping. The most complicated part was re-inserting the hydraulic piston without getting any air in the hydraulic damper - the best part is now I know exactly how a dropper actually functions. In fact its no more complicated than doing an oil service on a rear shock or fork. porqui, justinafrika, M L and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headshot Posted June 20, 2022 Share I have also just managed to resurrect my Spesh Command Post. Needed a service kit and my friendly local Spesh dealer was able to source me just the parts kit. working sweetly again for a while .... PhilipV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M L Posted June 20, 2022 Share Funny how whenever I pop in at a Tiger Wheel and Tire, my tires will be on the tread depth limit. I swear if you replace all 4 tires and drive around town, go back, they will again tell you your tires need replacing. My experience with most bike shops are a bit like that - they under-service the fork and constantly want to replace your cassette and chain together. Since servicing myself, I've had the same cassette with multiple chains and will keep doing that until it starts jumping. Headshot and 117 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted June 20, 2022 Share I'm removing my rant. never mind. Edited June 20, 2022 by Robbie Stewart Sid the Sloth, ChrisF and M L 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
117 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Good luck in getting it resolved at the dealer. Sadly, once you've paid and left, they're now in the control seat of any come backs as you dont have much recourse after the day has happened. Im a stickler on my vehicle service details and invoicing, and I take the dealer to task right there and then before I depart if I see any issues or if somehting doesnt add up What I find helps though, is calling the service manager and dealer principle to the discussion on arrival. Dont give them a heads up to gather info and use it to their benefit. Hope you come right Funny how the advert on the right of the page is for Suzuki ..... amazing this world of interwebs! TheoG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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