Post your woodwork here

[patches]

14 hours ago, Hairy on a Davidson said:

@patchesnice work!

Those paint sprayers have always intrigued me, it just makes so much sense. 

Personally I have not seen any contractors in CT using them as yet.

Yeah my HVLP is a dinky little Wagner one. I think contractors either use the full sized Wagner HVLP's or the airless systems. Wagner makes an HEA (High Efficiency Airless) which they claim reduces overspray by 50%.

I guess it much of it depends on labour rates, and here minimum wage is about R200/hr equiv.

That said, I remember school holidays where I would paint walls for my mom (child labour) and it would take forever on the textured walls (common in many SA homes), so a sprayer would make great sense there.

11 hours ago, Rocket-Boy said:

Sajid uses a HVLP system on Scott Brown carpentry.

It looks like the prep is more painful but the actual painting is a lot quicker and easier. I can imagine it would be awesome for ceilings, those things are a pain to get a streak free finish.

The prep was extensive, but to be honest, quite fun compared to cutting in with a paint brush. Maybe it was just the novelty.

The ceilings were tricky (thanks to ye ol gravity). Lots of hair and face scrubbing to look presentable for work the next day.

As for finish, it is silky smooth, but a contractor friend pointed out that on the big commercial jobs they would do, their painters would spray the undercoat and first coat, but roll the last. Reason being is that if that drywall ever requires patching and someone rolls paint over the patch, it will never blend in.

I just sprayed it all! Future me will deal with painting repairs, haha

Edited July 21, 2021 by patches

[patches]

11 hours ago, bertusras said:

Damn dude, amazing work, very impressive!

Although this nearly made me barf...

You and me both. A 1950's house. Original ceilings. You don't want to imagine what had accumulated up there.

P3 respirator, mechanix gloves, and a disposable full body overall.

[GrahamS2]

22 hours ago, patches said:

Youtube and practice, haha!

Over the last 2 years I've probably spent double the time watching tradie youtube channels than I have watching series or movies   Some really good stuff out there.

This would be the 5th ceiling I've replaced, so the plastering gets a little more efficient each time. As for the electrical, if it's something not too straight forward (like 3 way switching, or 2 way switching with a smart controller linked in), then I build a lower voltage (18V) test bench to try it out first. Once the concept and schematic are correct, I'll install the real deal.

Very impressive and the value of your home must be improving massively.

My only critique is to please take a hair dryer to those pendant cables to straighten them (I'm pedantic like that ????)

[GrahamS2]

A question for the woodworkers: Where and how do you store your tools?

I have a large collection of saws, planes, hammers, clamps, chisels, squares, etc. that I inherited from my grandfather. I want to build a usable storage solution in my workshop to keep them in. Any ideas?

[patches]

1 hour ago, GrahamS2 said:

Very impressive and the value of your home must be improving massively.

My only critique is to please take a hair dryer to those pendant cables to straighten them (I'm pedantic like that ????)

hahaha good tip. I tried to unkink them as much as possible, but they still look a little wavy.

[Hairy]

7 hours ago, GrahamS2 said:

Very impressive and the value of your home must be improving massively.

My only critique is to please take a hair dryer to those pendant cables to straighten them (I'm pedantic like that ????)

Flip ... not even see that, now I can't not see it at all when looking at the pick .... @patches, your cables are mincing (CT slang reference) bro!

[carrera4s]

On 7/21/2021 at 11:41 AM, Rocket-Boy said:

Amazing stuff!! Im amazed you went so far to get it all done, that was a lot of work!!

The screws are amazing and Im very excited to build something with one

Tx Rocket-Boy,

Yes, was quite a bit of work, but I enjoyed it.

Will send you one!

 

Guys,

I also have a few screws for sale, should any of you be interested.  To keep the costs down, I will also sell them without the hub, handle and gator (you can probably make them yourself!  Even if you do not have a lathe, you can make an octagonal one).  I have Red Ivory, Tambotie, Rooibos, Hardekool (leadwood) and Swarthaak to make the hub if you are interested - can also send you a blank if you want.   PS:  10% discount for you guys!    ????

The screws and nuts are all Rhodesian teak (except the one hardekool one, but that is sold already).

Leg vice screw:

600 mm long, 64 mm diameter, 12.5 mm pitch, twin start for 25 mm advance per rotation.

R 2 500 for complete set, or R 1250 for screw and nut only.

 

Face Vice Screw:

500 mm long, 50 mm diameter, 10 mm pitch, twin start for 20 mm advance per rotation.

R 2 200 for complete set, or R 1 100 for screw and nut only.

 

Wagon Vice Screw:  (Sorry, don't have a pic now)

300 - 400 mm long, 50 mm diameter, 10 mm pitch, twin start for 20 mm advance per rotation.

R 1 750 for complete set, or R 900 for screw and nut only.

 

Moxon Vice Screws (Set of 2):

300 mm long, 40 mm diameter, 7.5 mm pitch, twin start for 15 mm advance per rotation.

R 1 250 for complete set, or R 900 for screws and nuts only.

 

 

 

Edited July 22, 2021 by carrera4s

[GrahamS2]

On 7/22/2021 at 11:55 AM, patches said:

hahaha good tip. I tried to unkink them as much as possible, but they still look a little wavy.

Had the same issue in a previous house when I fitted them. Hair dryer to soften, then add some weight while it cools down. May take a few tries.

[patches]

On 6/17/2021 at 11:17 AM, patches said:

Lending Tools...

What's your policy on lending tools to friends?

I'm sure we all have that one friend (often more than one) that kinda knows enough to be dangerous and has never been wiling to invest in their own tools because they rely on the fact you have the tools they need and they'll just bum them off you.

I have this fairly frequently and for the most part I have mitigated this by saying "come over to my house and we'll work on it together" or "the local Men's Shed has way better tools for the job and the membership is reasonable" (45 NZD/year).

But lately the challenge is that this particular individual is wanting to lend tools relating to an onsite build, so both the above solutions are invalid. My concerns are 3 fold:

• injury to person due to inexperience on using dangerous specialised tools
• damage/loss of tools and cost to replace (tools requested total approx R20,000 in replacement value)
• inconvenience of not having tools available should I need them

The guy is a long term mate and doesn't want to intentionally cause me grief. I'm just conscious that I am becoming the local tool-library and the above-mentioned concerns grow each time.

Interested to hear your stances on things like this?!

So what was initially a potential "I may need to borrow some tools" has materialised into an actual project, requiring said tools.

Still reluctant to loan out my tools, I have offered my assistance with the task. The construction of a noise insulated, timber framed partition wall in a garage (as a mini sound studio).

When discussing the project with the requester, I have confirmed that they know even less about building than I originally thought. Multiple short-cuts or hacks have been proposed and I keep rejecting each one. If I'm going to be involved and my tools are going to be used, I will do it to the best of my ability.

I know I'm no master-builder, but I have some experience in building my own walls and installing Gib (plasterboard). I also research as much as I can on methods, techniques, and best practice (thanks Scott Brown and Mitre10 man). Additionally I have familiarised myself with the NZ timber framing standards and the Gib noise control wall installation manual.

The stickler in me shudders to think what may have transpired ????

Anyway, watch this space as it will likely be the outlet I use to share my success or vent my frustration  

[The Ouzo]

8 hours ago, patches said:

So what was initially a potential "I may need to borrow some tools" has materialised into an actual project, requiring said tools.

Still reluctant to loan out my tools, I have offered my assistance with the task. The construction of a noise insulated, timber framed partition wall in a garage (as a mini sound studio).

When discussing the project with the requester, I have confirmed that they know even less about building than I originally thought. Multiple short-cuts or hacks have been proposed and I keep rejecting each one. If I'm going to be involved and my tools are going to be used, I will do it to the best of my ability.

I know I'm no master-builder, but I have some experience in building my own walls and installing Gib (plasterboard). I also research as much as I can on methods, techniques, and best practice (thanks Scott Brown and Mitre10 man). Additionally I have familiarised myself with the NZ timber framing standards and the Gib noise control wall installation manual.

The stickler in me shudders to think what may have transpired ????

Anyway, watch this space as it will likely be the outlet I use to share my success or vent my frustration  

sound proofing is an interesting area.

Many years ago we built my sister a sound proof booth for her audiology practice.

 

This was in the days before Google.

At first we used drywalling with two different density insulation foams on the inside and a rough finish on the walls. It wasnt good enough, we then went the egg carton route, covering the entire inside with egg cartons. Better but still not good enough.

Eventually we called on an expert who recommended a few fixes, including a sheet of asbestos on the door. This worked and we got the booth SABS approved.

The window was particularly interesting, 3 panes of double glazed glass with gaps in between the panes.

[patches]

1 hour ago, ouzo said:

sound proofing is an interesting area.

Many years ago we built my sister a sound proof booth for her audiology practice.

 

This was in the days before Google.

At first we used drywalling with two different density insulation foams on the inside and a rough finish on the walls. It wasnt good enough, we then went the egg carton route, covering the entire inside with egg cartons. Better but still not good enough.

Eventually we called on an expert who recommended a few fixes, including a sheet of asbestos on the door. This worked and we got the booth SABS approved.

The window was particularly interesting, 3 panes of double glazed glass with gaps in between the panes.

Thank goodness for the age of Google or I'd be in trouble!

There are a number of ways that Gib (plasterboard systems) recommend doing it. The most effective involves 2 parallel stud walls (not touching), both with sound insulation on the inside and double layers of Noiseline Gib on the outsides.

The simpler way and what I'll be going for is a single wall with the noise reducing insulation, double layer noiseline Gib on the outsides, and Autex sound control textile over that. The door is going to be the biggest challenge. With the wall being wider thanks to the dual lining, we may go for 2 solid core door leaves, joined to the same jambs/frame, but opening in butterfly fashion.

Anyway project may have it's first hitch... Timber stocks at my local are not looking good!

[Hairy]

6 minutes ago, patches said:

Thank goodness for the age of Google or I'd be in trouble!

There are a number of ways that Gib (plasterboard systems) recommend doing it. The most effective involves 2 parallel stud walls (not touching), both with sound insulation on the inside and double layers of Noiseline Gib on the outsides.

The simpler way and what I'll be going for is a single wall with the noise reducing insulation, double layer noiseline Gib on the outsides, and Autex sound control textile over that. The door is going to be the biggest challenge. With the wall being wider thanks to the dual lining, we may go for 2 solid core door leaves, joined to the same jambs/frame, but opening in butterfly fashion.

Anyway project may have it's first hitch... Timber stocks at my local are not looking good!

Just ask Scott Brown for a 2x4" or two .... tell him Hairy sent you

[stefmeister]

5 hours ago, ouzo said:

sound proofing is an interesting area.

Many years ago we built my sister a sound proof booth for her audiology practice.

 

This was in the days before Google.

At first we used drywalling with two different density insulation foams on the inside and a rough finish on the walls. It wasnt good enough, we then went the egg carton route, covering the entire inside with egg cartons. Better but still not good enough.

Eventually we called on an expert who recommended a few fixes, including a sheet of asbestos on the door. This worked and we got the booth SABS approved.

The window was particularly interesting, 3 panes of double glazed glass with gaps in between the panes.

Glass fibre rockwool is what you need to absorb sound waves.

Egg cartons will only serve as diffraction panels, and are probably 100% useless inside a wall cavity. Diffraction panels serve to break up the normal diffraction patterns of sound waves, and their size only lend it to upper mid-high frequencies - thus reducing echoing and reverberation as well as phase delayed distortions, and are used inside the room.

For lower frequencies (ie. bass) you need adequate mass in order to absorb the energy of the wave, where heavier panels and rockwool traps work better. Foam will not be enough to effectively absorb any sound. 

As for wall material, if you're going plaster board or other panel route (like a floating room), the more the panels/boards are braced will also aid in transferring less energy into/out of the room, as heavier braced panels will require more energy to move the panel, thus shifting the resonant frequency into the higher spectrum.

[The Ouzo]

6 minutes ago, stefmeister said:

Glass fibre rockwool is what you need to absorb sound waves.

Egg cartons will only serve as diffraction panels, and are probably 100% useless inside a wall cavity. Diffraction panels serve to break up the normal diffraction patterns of sound waves, and their size only lend it to upper mid-high frequencies - thus reducing echoing and reverberation as well as phase delayed distortions, and are used inside the room.

For lower frequencies (ie. bass) you need adequate mass in order to absorb the energy of the wave, where heavier panels and rockwool traps work better. Foam will not be enough to effectively absorb any sound. 

As for wall material, if you're going plaster board or other panel route (like a floating room), the more the panels/boards are braced will also aid in transferring less energy into/out of the room, as heavier braced panels will require more energy to move the panel, thus shifting the resonant frequency into the higher spectrum.

wrong choice of wording on my part, it was 2 different densities of glass fibre, and if I recall also a sheet of squishy rubber.

The egg cartons were inside the room, but not inside the wall if that makes sense.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

15 hours ago, patches said:

So what was initially a potential "I may need to borrow some tools" has materialised into an actual project, requiring said tools.

Still reluctant to loan out my tools, I have offered my assistance with the task. The construction of a noise insulated, timber framed partition wall in a garage (as a mini sound studio).

When discussing the project with the requester, I have confirmed that they know even less about building than I originally thought. Multiple short-cuts or hacks have been proposed and I keep rejecting each one. If I'm going to be involved and my tools are going to be used, I will do it to the best of my ability.

I know I'm no master-builder, but I have some experience in building my own walls and installing Gib (plasterboard). I also research as much as I can on methods, techniques, and best practice (thanks Scott Brown and Mitre10 man). Additionally I have familiarised myself with the NZ timber framing standards and the Gib noise control wall installation manual.

The stickler in me shudders to think what may have transpired ????

Anyway, watch this space as it will likely be the outlet I use to share my success or vent my frustration  

Two things you never borrow/lend:

Tools

Wife

Use it, don't use it.......

[Rocket-Boy]

On 7/22/2021 at 11:38 AM, carrera4s said:

 

What amazes me is how small they look in pictures... these things are MASSIVE!

My one must weigh a couple of kg's at least.

The mouse and keyboard are for size reference and there aint nothing small about it!!