Pedal strikes

[Knersboy]

What I like about pedal strikes is that they always remind me how damn strong Shimano spd pedals are

[Jewbacca]

I always regard pedal strikes as bad riding.....

 

I tend to see avoiding them as part of the collective skill set one develops the more one rides.

 

Fatigue amplifies bad technique and timing, so if you're less fit they tend to happen more frequently.

 

I do however agree with shorter cranks. Not for the pedal strikes, but because they just make more sense.

 

Sky were riding 162.5's on their road bikes and even shorter on some of their TT setups a while back. 

 

I ride 170mm on all my geared bikes. 165 are definitely an option for the trail bike. Have 180mm on the SS........ 

[Goodbadugly]

Get a hardtail. No sag.

And learn skills.

Ride the crank you have.

Sorry for the blunt answer, but that is how I see it.

[Vetseun]

Get a hardtail. No sag.

And learn skills.

Ride the crank you have.

Sorry for the blunt answer, but that is how I see it.

And I Sir agree 100% with you. Stop fussing around. Ride ride ride.Dont try to buy skills. Learn skills. Respect

[ChrisF]

Get a hardtail. No sag.

And learn skills.

Ride the crank you have.

Sorry for the blunt answer, but that is how I see it.

 

Sadly that is what it comes down to ...

 

YES, going from one bike to another I did experience a number of pedal strikes in the first rides.  I had to adapt to the new bike ....

 

But even with a full suspension one CAN learn the skills to avoid 99,9% of pedal strikes.

 

Coming through B Gumm yesterday, after 90 minutes in the saddle it took serious concentration to avoid pedal strikes .... climbing up over loggs etc your timing has to be spot on, half back strokes at the right time to keep moving forward without pedal strikes .... And yet I had NO pedal strikes in that section.

 

 

I had a nasty tumble in January.  Not a lack of skill, not being a boy-racer, purely being tired and a lack of concentration .... VERY lucky I did not break a color-bone in that one !

 

 

So on the one hand your skill level has to improve to suit the bike and the terrain.  And on the other hand you need to get past your ego ... STOP when you are so tired that your concentration is not up to the task, just a minute or two, then proceed at a pace that suits your concentration levels .... the more often you ride, the better your skill set (if deliberately work at it), and the better your concentration levels ...

[Kranswurm]

I always regard pedal strikes as bad riding.....

 

I tend to see avoiding them as part of the collective skill set one develops the more one rides.

 

Fatigue amplifies bad technique and timing, so if you're less fit they tend to happen more frequently.

 

I do however agree with shorter cranks. Not for the pedal strikes, but because they just make more sense.

 

Sky were riding 162.5's on their road bikes and even shorter on some of their TT setups a while back. 

 

I ride 170mm on all my geared bikes. 165 are definitely an option for the trail bike. Have 180mm on the SS........ 

Agreed...lack of skills.....applies to the road as well

[Eugéne Alberts]

Sadly that is what it comes down to ...

 

YES, going from one bike to another I did experience a number of pedal strikes in the first rides. I had to adapt to the new bike ....

 

But even with a full suspension one CAN learn the skills to avoid 99,9% of pedal strikes.

 

Coming through B Gumm yesterday, after 90 minutes in the saddle it took serious concentration to avoid pedal strikes .... climbing up over loggs etc your timing has to be spot on, half back strokes at the right time to keep moving forward without pedal strikes .... And yet I had NO pedal strikes in that section.

 

 

I had a nasty tumble in January. Not a lack of skill, not being a boy-racer, purely being tired and a lack of concentration .... VERY lucky I did not break a color-bone in that one !

 

 

So on the one hand your skill level has to improve to suit the bike and the terrain. And on the other hand you need to get past your ego ... STOP when you are so tired that your concentration is not up to the task, just a minute or two, then proceed at a pace that suits your concentration levels .... the more often you ride, the better your skill set (if deliberately work at it), and the better your concentration levels ...

Thanks, Chris

[Eugéne Alberts]

Its MTB Eugene. Ride hard and pedal strikes will happen. If you dont like pedal strikes, maybe consider road bike riding. Also hard but with no pedal strikes.

P.S. Never ever get rid of a Tall Boy

I do miss the Boy.

 

It was just a tad too small otherwise I would have kept it

[Corrieh]

Eugene, when I bought mu Camber I use to run the Auto Sag as per Fox and Specialized recommendations. Had to many peddle strikes. After more research and checking out Fox website, I realized that the shock was way to soft, running 150psi at that time. FOX says you have to use your body wight in pounds plus 10 psi so i went up to 245psi. No more peddle strikes bit more importantly the bike handles better and teack the trails better. Steering is more responsive as well. But try different settings until you feel comfortable, but the Camber suspension is way to soft as per Auto Sag.

[Emazing]

Lock your back shock on uphill rough stuff it stop the bob

[Jewbacca]

Lock your back shock on uphill rough stuff it stop the bob

Realistically, on rough trails you should have an active rear suspension while climbing as it gives you more traction.

 

Suspension isn't just absorbing bumps 'in' it is also filling holes 'out' which allows the wheel to stay planted and give the rider better traction at even watts.

 

Simply 'locking the back shock' negates one of the main benefits of having the extra weight of a dual suspension.

 

A better suggestion would be to set the bike up correctly with the right pressures, can spacers/bands etc and then see. Some bike frames unfortunately do have more pedal bob than others, but it is usually down to end user issues with bad pedal technique, uneven power output, shifting weight and more often, fatigue, which combines and amplifies all of the above.

[BaGearA]

Eugene, when I bought mu Camber I use to run the Auto Sag as per Fox and Specialized recommendations. Had to many peddle strikes. After more research and checking out Fox website, I realized that the shock was way to soft, running 150psi at that time. FOX says you have to use your body wight in pounds plus 10 psi so i went up to 245psi. No more peddle strikes bit more importantly the bike handles better and teack the trails better. Steering is more responsive as well. But try different settings until you feel comfortable, but the Camber suspension is way to soft as per Auto Sag.

Please screen shot where FOX says that, using your weight in any type of multiplication plus whatever is BS

 

Sag is the one and only way to get where you want, your bike may have charts to get you in a window but SAG is what needs to be used

 

20% for firm (could help with pedal strikes)

25%-30% for soft more forgiving

 

I repeat

 

There is NO formula in this universe that will use anyone's weight to find their correct suspension setup

[Baracuda]

Please screen shot where FOX says that, using your weight in any type of multiplication plus whatever is BS

 

Sag is the one and only way to get where you want, your bike may have charts to get you in a window but SAG is what needs to be used

 

20% for firm (could help with pedal strikes)

25%-30% for soft more forgiving

 

I repeat

 

There is NO formula in this universe that will use anyone's weight to find their correct suspension setup

 

https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/tuning/36T60521852

Edited April 14, 2020 by Baracuda

[Bos]

What I like about pedal strikes is that they always remind me how damn strong Shimano spd pedals are

Haha that cheered me up. I've often thought the same! Ive bent a couple of cranks though.. so be warned. 

[ChrisF]

Please screen shot where FOX says that, using your weight in any type of multiplication plus whatever is BS

 

Sag is the one and only way to get where you want, your bike may have charts to get you in a window but SAG is what needs to be used

 

20% for firm (could help with pedal strikes)

25%-30% for soft more forgiving

 

I repeat

 

There is NO formula in this universe that will use anyone's weight to find their correct suspension setup

 

 

YES, sag is the ultimate FINAL step in setup.

 

 

BUT, many people do use the following "rule of thumb" to start the process:

 

FRONT : rider weight in kg = shock pressure in psi

REAR : rider weight in kg TIMES TWO = shock pressure in psi.

 

 

 

On me previous bike this spot on for the rear, but I needed to go slightly higher on the pressure in the front to SET UP THE SAG CORRECTLY.

 

On my current bike, the rear pressure is slightly higher, and the front lower than the rule of thumb - to get to the correct sag settings.

Edited April 14, 2020 by ChrisF