Rocket-Boy Posted October 2, 2017 Posted October 2, 2017 At least you are trying and learning while you are going Tchjina!Its been fun so far, I think I have put in around 60 hours of work on that bench which doesnt show when you look at it. Youtube and the super helpful people in this thread has helped a lot though and Im enjoying the learning experience. Capricorn 1
Gandalf Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 some stanley tools on one day only https://www.onedayonly.co.za Rocket-Boy 1
Rocket-Boy Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Still trying to get this bench done, things take a lot longer than expected when you are either a noob like me or dont really have the right tool for the job.Sorry if the updates get a bit annoying.Made a spacer that I routed/chiselled to the correct depth to space the vise from the top edge. Vise mounted in the centre, 420mm of glorious opening width. I had to do a *ton* of work on it before mounting. It had been old stock and had congealed oil on and needed quite a bit of fine tuning on the quick release mech. Some clean green and a rag along with removing manufacturing burrs in the nut assembly and it was good to go. Plugging dowels sanded flush, I initially tried a few things getting them flushed then gave up and borrowed a belt sander which made quick work of them. Wasnt super happy about messing with the structure but had to create a cutout for the rear assembly of the vise to use its full travel. I used a forstner bit followed by a chisel to take the minimum amount of wood off. First of the jaws to be mounted, I routed it out and covered my entire garage in sawdust. I was amazed how much mess it actually made!!  The jaw has a nice tight fit over the vise and has been marked to cut off the excess. I purposely left the top edge proud of the workbench so that I can plane everything flush when its all mounted. Typical of this whole build it was too late to start using the table saw last night so the cutting will happen this afternoon. Cross-cut sled with a sacrificial block for tearout should work quite well.  So hopefully will get the smaller recess routed on the second jaw and mounted this evening, then I can plane everything flush and start marking out the dog holes. the nerd, carrera4s, Gandalf and 4 others 7
Rocket-Boy Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Took a quick break from the bench on the weekend to turn a pen for a friends birthday.He picked a hard maple blank from my stock, not quite my thing as I prefer the darker woods in pens but it came out ok. Long Wheel Base, GaryP and KaKa 3
Gandalf Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 Still trying to get this bench done, things take a lot longer than expected when you are either a noob like me or dont really have the right tool for the job.Sorry if the updates get a bit annoying. Its nice to see the progress. Rocket-Boy, Grantc and Long Wheel Base 3
LOOK695 Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 This is my latest project, a lunging circle. My horse doing a quick inspection of my work????????    Gate still needs 2 coats of varnish  Capricorn, EvanB, Wannabe and 8 others 11
Capricorn Posted October 5, 2017 Posted October 5, 2017 This is my latest project, a lunging circle. My horse doing a quick inspection of my work   2DAE7086-4AEF-4FE0-8065-26D80B70C1CE.jpegB2ED81FE-3838-433C-8806-19036C16DE8C.jpeg13DC75A8-C2CA-4241-A070-37D7EE5E695C.jpeg8FF52B0D-A030-4D08-8175-F7F3D69F32A0.jpeg Gate still needs 2 coats of varnish 10212165-9A28-4782-82BB-0D8821204414.jpeg your woodcarving of that horse is incredibly lifelike. well done! Wannabe, Rocket-Boy, DJR and 7 others 10
Gandalf Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 Kreg jigs / clamps on onedayonly today, good price if i compare it to tools4wood Rocket-Boy and carrera4s 2
LOOK695 Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 your woodcarving of that horse is incredibly lifelike. well done! ????????????????????????
JanJan Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 I am a bit frustrated at the moment: Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels. How do Hubbers plug dowels?Use drill bits that are not common sizes?Turn your own dowel pins?Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?
Ed-Zulu Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 (edited)  I am a bit frustrated at the moment: Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels. How do Hubbers plug dowels?Use drill bits that are not common sizes?Turn your own dowel pins?Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels? I use their vernier. I know its a ball ache, but rather drill 9mm hole for 10mm dowel. For your current predicament: buy larger dowel, sand down to requirded od Edit: fit bigger dowel in drill, grab 100grit paper and start working it down, goes quick Edited October 6, 2017 by Ed-Zulu Pants Boy and Steven Knoetze (sk27) 2
stefmeister Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017  I am a bit frustrated at the moment: Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels. How do Hubbers plug dowels?Use drill bits that are not common sizes?Turn your own dowel pins?Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels? Not all drill bits are necessarily the same.Having different drill bit sets is handy for this purpose. A hole drilled with lip and spur bit may be different from say a standard twist bit given the same size. Doing test drills beforehand where tolerances/fit are important should be practiced. Pants Boy 1
BSG Posted October 6, 2017 Posted October 6, 2017 (edited) Busy with the wheelchair ramp, inside all walls are cement prep painted for the tiles and the floor got a 75mm sloped concrete floor.  Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk Edited October 6, 2017 by BSG Rocket-Boy, Long Wheel Base, Capricorn and 1 other 4
jimmycool Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017  I am a bit frustrated at the moment: Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels. How do Hubbers plug dowels?Use drill bits that are not common sizes?Turn your own dowel pins?Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels?   Here you go... Rocket-Boy 1
jimmycool Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) And another way.  Edited October 7, 2017 by jimmycool Rocket-Boy 1
Rocket-Boy Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017  I am a bit frustrated at the moment: Timbercity, Builder's Warehouse and Mica sell salinga dowels that are smaller than their description. Which resulted in me drilling 10 mm and 6 mm holes, only to find nasty gaps when I wanted to install the the dowels. How do Hubbers plug dowels?Use drill bits that are not common sizes?Turn your own dowel pins?Take your vernier to the shops and measure dowels? I found the exact opposite to be true of the 19mm dowels I have used, they were all bigger than 19mm. I measured with a caliper and they vary between 19.11 and 20.02mm. Solution for me was to mount them between centers on the lathe and sand them down.You could also cut to size and mount them in a drill press and sand or even a hand drill. Its apparently a super common thing that store bought dowels are never the exact size.
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