Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Wild olive - it was much lighter when it was made with more white flames in the wood, but got darker over the (about) 20 years since I made them.

African Rosewood - showed more gold flecks in the dark red/brown, but that also faded slowly

Perhaps it is partly because of the varnish?

The board is made from veneered Supawood. (Yes, I know, it is just All Bran pressed together) The centre blocks are Snakewood and Burr Wallnut (memory?).

The box is Maple top and bottom, Purple Heart (I think) on the sides

 

post-17716-0-33585100-1474387677_thumb.jpg

post-17716-0-68745600-1474387696_thumb.jpg

post-17716-0-10680900-1474387714_thumb.jpg

post-17716-0-27471000-1474387735_thumb.jpg

Posted

This is another board I made, but I wasn't very happy with it. It is made from African Rosewood and Wild Olive, solid wood, not veneer. It gives a better idea of how the Wild Olive chess pieces looked when new. I use this board when we overland, it lives under the rubber mat in the back of the Landy. It's seen places and done stuff. No veneered board would have survived. It looks better in the picture than in real life.

post-17716-0-23035500-1474388480_thumb.jpg

Posted

Made this the weekend...bluetooth speaker, runs of 12v for my eldest.

 

30mm pine for box with satin black sprayed on, face 15mm pine in oregon stain with 2 x clear coat

 

Old leather belt for handle with brass screws, can do duty either vertical or horizontal

 

Edit: 2 x 20W speakers, cost of project; R250 for bluetooth board

Any chance of some more info on that Ed? Been keen to build one for a while. Does it have a built in amp? Where did you get the module from?
Posted (edited)

Any chance of some more info on that Ed? Been keen to build one for a while. Does it have a built in amp? Where did you get the module from?

Hi Grebs, I used this board

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver-Digital-TDA7492P-50W-50W-Amplifier-Board-Free-Shipping/32491192417.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.56.6g38TQ

 

with 2 x 20W 16ohm speakers.

 

The sound is OK for my 10 year old son whom I built it for, but I detect some feedback for a short period. It sounds best at about 80/100 - 100/100, which is probably the effect of the wood density boosting sound quality or something to that effect.

 

This board runs of 12V power, so car battery or alarm system battery.

 

I'm busy looking at my next build when I came across this dude on youtube "Kirby Meets Audio" he has some nice product details and busy checing on Aliexpress for the parts he used in an amplified build running bluetooth.

 

Will keep you guys posted

 

Edit: next attempt will be a another portable, waterproof speaker with charging points and reloadable battery. I'm taking my Shox apart tonight to spy on the inetrenals

Edited by Ed-Zulu
Posted

I had some spare time this weekend so decided to put it to good use. A few months ago, I bought a hand coffee grinder off Amazon and hated the original plastic knob on the handle from day one. Decided to give it a bit of class.... Scrounged a small piece of Imbuia from a mate and set about shaping it in the lathe.

 

I had no idea what the final product was supposed to look like but started cutting wood anyway. Using the cross slide, things were progressing nicely. I needed to get to the back bit so I decided to use a "hand tool" which didn't end well and I took a nice big chunk out of it when it dug in... Bummer

 

I was really miffed but it turned out great in the end as I had to machine that divot out and that in turn determined the final shape of the knob!

 

Finishing was done with emery tape and water paper (Not the most woodworky stuff to use but my background is metal so I used what I had lying around) Ended up finishing it with 600 water paper and my fingers.

 

Machined a stainless M8 male insert in the bottom that was drilled and tapped M4 to accept the M4 button head capscrew that holds it on. Fits into your hand nicely now and gives it a more upmarket look 

 

Not the most spectacular thing but I was quite happy with the final result

 

post-17843-0-04606500-1474443669_thumb.jpg

 

post-17843-0-63487900-1474443670_thumb.jpg

 

post-17843-0-65058700-1474443672_thumb.jpg

Posted

I had some spare time this weekend so decided to put it to good use. A few months ago, I bought a hand coffee grinder off Amazon and hated the original plastic knob on the handle from day one. Decided to give it a bit of class.... Scrounged a small piece of Imbuia from a mate and set about shaping it in the lathe.

 

I had no idea what the final product was supposed to look like but started cutting wood anyway. Using the cross slide, things were progressing nicely. I needed to get to the back bit so I decided to use a "hand tool" which didn't end well and I took a nice big chunk out of it when it dug in... Bummer

 

I was really miffed but it turned out great in the end as I had to machine that divot out and that in turn determined the final shape of the knob!

 

Finishing was done with emery tape and water paper (Not the most woodworky stuff to use but my background is metal so I used what I had lying around) Ended up finishing it with 600 water paper and my fingers.

 

Machined a stainless M8 male insert in the bottom that was drilled and tapped M4 to accept the M4 button head capscrew that holds it on. Fits into your hand nicely now and gives it a more upmarket look 

 

Not the most spectacular thing but I was quite happy with the final result

 

attachicon.gif20160920_175014.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20160920_175041.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20160920_175339.jpg

Very nice. And precisely how it would have been "in the old days"

Posted

I had some spare time this weekend so decided to put it to good use. A few months ago, I bought a hand coffee grinder off Amazon and hated the original plastic knob on the handle from day one. Decided to give it a bit of class.... Scrounged a small piece of Imbuia from a mate and set about shaping it in the lathe.

 

I had no idea what the final product was supposed to look like but started cutting wood anyway. Using the cross slide, things were progressing nicely. I needed to get to the back bit so I decided to use a "hand tool" which didn't end well and I took a nice big chunk out of it when it dug in... Bummer

 

I was really miffed but it turned out great in the end as I had to machine that divot out and that in turn determined the final shape of the knob!

 

Finishing was done with emery tape and water paper (Not the most woodworky stuff to use but my background is metal so I used what I had lying around) Ended up finishing it with 600 water paper and my fingers.

 

Machined a stainless M8 male insert in the bottom that was drilled and tapped M4 to accept the M4 button head capscrew that holds it on. Fits into your hand nicely now and gives it a more upmarket look 

 

Not the most spectacular thing but I was quite happy with the final result

 

 

I find that those little things that you see and use every day are sometimes the ones that give you the greatest pleasure. 

Posted

Nice! speakers always sound better if there is a nice bit of finished timber visible :)

 

 Talking of speakers, I want to build a big bass bin for a  18": driver, found a few options for designs but the designers generally specify fancy plywood:

 

ie 13 laminate 18mm Birch Ply

 

I have asked around a bit with the usual suspects  and drawn blank vacant looks. One gets that shutter ply (which has its uses) and marine ply, generally thinner. Anyone have idea when I can get this?

I'm watching this post, would love to get a few sheets of birch ply in my stock

Posted (edited)

Nice! speakers always sound better if there is a nice bit of finished timber visible :)

 

 Talking of speakers, I want to build a big bass bin for a  18": driver, found a few options for designs but the designers generally specify fancy plywood:

 

ie 13 laminate 18mm Birch Ply

 

I have asked around a bit with the usual suspects  and drawn blank vacant looks. One gets that shutter ply (which has its uses) and marine ply, generally thinner. Anyone have idea when I can get this?

 

 

I'm watching this post, would love to get a few sheets of birch ply in my stock

 

Try Eco Timber Traders

 

Edit: 18mm Birch Ply R995/sheet exc vat

15mm Birch Ply R865/sheet exc vat

 

Sheets are 2440x1220

Edited by Grebel
Posted

My kitchen counters are driving me mad (mainly cos wifey isn't careful with spilling water  :whistling:).

 

Besides applying Woodoc wax or similar - WEEKLY - is there anything else that can be done?

 

Water stains the wood  :devil:

 

Varnishing isn't an option right?

 

Made this one for the cottage kitchen. Sprayed with a wood floor coating waterpapered and polished. Hard as nails.

post-3624-0-75619800-1474466233_thumb.jpg

Posted

Can anyone advise me on how to restore a few Rhodesian Teak patio pieces (director's chairs, Morris chairs, coffee table)?

 

They're about 25 years old and have been outdoors for most of that time. Some of them are very weathered, so I guess they need to be sanded back to bare wood, while others have countless layers of furniture polish on them and look dull (the red wood grain isn't very clear anymore).

 

I'm guessing that once sanded (or steelwool'ed) they need to be oiled or sealed, but with what? I understand that Rhodesian Teak is not "Teak" so Teal oil might not be the right product?

Posted

Can anyone advise me on how to restore a few Rhodesian Teak patio pieces (director's chairs, Morris chairs, coffee table)?

 

They're about 25 years old and have been outdoors for most of that time. Some of them are very weathered, so I guess they need to be sanded back to bare wood, while others have countless layers of furniture polish on them and look dull (the red wood grain isn't very clear anymore).

 

I'm guessing that once sanded (or steelwool'ed) they need to be oiled or sealed, but with what? I understand that Rhodesian Teak is not "Teak" so Teal oil might not be the right product?

 

Personally, I don't get hung up on any of the definitions. I doubt that most of the "teak" furniture sold these days is genuine teak anyway. It's a fairly endangered wood with a much more beautiful grain than you'll find in these products. 

 

Maar nou ja, ons praat van Rhodesian Teak ... nie eers van Zimbabwe nie.

 

I'd just bung raw linseed oil on. Feed it up. Sanding definitely is unnecessary in 99% of cases. If you feel you'd like to steelwool it, that's fine. Apply the oil with the steelwool.

 

If they're going back outside, I'd give it some Timbaseal wood preservative once the linseed oil has settled and been absorbed after two or three weeks. Concentrate on getting lots of preservative absorbed into the end grain of legs, and elsewhere. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout