Sram GX / XO1 / XX1 12 Speed mileage

[BaGearA]

the 50T has abit of shiny bits from the chain shifting.  The chain has never skipped and the shifts are buttery smooth. no pointy ends

Any ideas of your mileage? Since it's eagle gx I assume is fairly new

[Hamstring]

just replaced my GX after 12500km 2 chains 1 ring, i got +- that on the 2 x 11 as well.

[Starvin' Marvin]

Any ideas of your mileage? Since it's eagle gx I assume is fairly new

1500km or so.

[fanievb]

replaced my first gx chain 2800km. got a good scrubbing once a week. depending on riding conditions lube twice a week

using birzman chain checker, there was a few links at .75

rather play it safe, cassettes are $$$$$$$ (and I got a few chains on blackfriday special)
 

[Starvin' Marvin]

replaced my first gx chain 2800km. got a good scrubbing once a week. depending on riding conditions lube twice a week

 

using birzman chain checker, there was a few links at .75

 

rather play it safe, cassettes are $$$$$$$ (and I got a few chains on blackfriday special)

 

Bough a chain cleaner device from Cycle HQ. fantastic little doohickey

Edited March 2, 2019 by Starvin' Marvin

[OnTheRicky]

Does anyone know what mileage you can expect from the NX eagle chain? 

 

Trying to decide what chain to keep as a spare. It doesn't seem sensible to overspend on something I hope not to use. 

Just broke a link on my GX chain after 1400 kms, always wash and lube the drive train before a ride. That seems inline with the mileage most have reported on here. Sounds like I would be better of upgrading to a XX1 chain? 

[Grease_Monkey]

Does anyone know what mileage you can expect from the NX eagle chain?

 

Trying to decide what chain to keep as a spare. It doesn't seem sensible to overspend on something I hope not to use.

 

Just broke a link on my GX chain after 1400 kms, always wash and lube the drive train before a ride. That seems inline with the mileage most have reported on here. Sounds like I would be better of upgrading to a XX1 chain?

Correct, just get an X01 or XX1 chain. Rands per km it is the cheapest by a long shot.

[DieselnDust]

XX1 chain is the best bang for your buck. 4200km and <0.1% wear.

[billygoat0523]

XX1 chain is the best bang for your buck. 4200km and <0.1% wear.

checked mine too after 4500 km/2 years/300 hours of mostly trail riding (>90%), almost no wear.

 

guy at my lbs likes to speak in km, but he rides a lot on the road with his mtb as well.  i believe a mtb should be used on the trails for most of it's life.

[Ozzie NL]

So a chain every 3 to 4 months, that is a bit much is it not?

1500km over 3-4 month?

 

You gotta ride more mate

[Bitsy]

Hi guys,

 

I got a GX 1x11. Not too sure what the milage is, but my chain has started to slip only on gear selection. This is only happening in the lower end of the cassette (10;12;14;16). Its not consistent...happens +- 5 times on a 80/100km ride and really frustrates me!

I checked the chain and its worn to the 0.5 mark. Would the chain most likely be the issue or could it be the cable tension. 

The cassette seems fine and this does not happen on any of the larger gears (16 up). 

​I keep the drivetrain relatively clean with a nice clean and lube every week.

 

Thanks

[DieselnDust]

At around 0.5%wear with slip present, then it's time for a new chain. There is a tolerance on all parts of the drive train and it would appear that your drive train with the current chain is at a point where something needs to be replaced.

Also check that the B tension screw hasn't turned inward dropping the derailleur away from the cassette.

another thing to check is that the jockey cage is articulating freely and smoothly through its full range of movement. Sometimes it gets caught up on a bur on the Bush (due to wear)

[mrcg]

Something to bear in mind is that no two riders are the same, meaning wear also depends on your riding style. This means shifting, cadence, power throughput, surface and weather all play a role. Also, we tend to ride certain gears more than others, so slippage can occur in these and not in others. Your ratios play a role too in terms of e.g. 1x12 and using a 32t or a 34t...this will dictate your gear usage on different trails. Gentle shifting and doing so timeously without getting stuck in big rings when needing to suddenly go uphill....or shifting on hard power.....

Anyway....experiment and see what works best for you. Changing chains regular to keep wear in check is tricky too and not necessarily cheaper

[MORNE]

snip

 

This. Always bombing down hill on single track trials does not provide a proper guide to drivetrain life. 4500 km trail riding does NOT equal 4500km XC riding just saying...

Edited May 8, 2019 by morneS555

[Grease_Monkey]

This. Always bombing down hill on single track trials does not provide a proper guide to drivetrain life. 4500 km trail riding does NOT equal 4500km XC riding just saying...

Well to bomb a trail down you must first go up. I'm going through chains with Enduro type of riding faster than I did with marathon riding. Probably because my riding now consists mostly of an hour of climbing in small gears followed by 10 to 15mins of descending in a big gear with hardly any pedaling.

 

But the point does stand - everyone's mileage is gonna be different based on how they ride/shift/etc

[MORNE]

Well to bomb a trail down you must first go up. I'm going through chains with Enduro type of riding faster than I did with marathon riding. Probably because my riding now consists mostly of an hour of climbing in small gears followed by 10 to 15mins of descending in a big gear with hardly any pedaling.

 

But the point does stand - everyone's mileage is gonna be different based on how they ride/shift/etc

well yes a chain, freehub, cassette will always wear faster in the big 3 or 4 cogs vs no effort at all in the small cogs going down hill. Its physics...not to mention all the dual suspension bikes and chain grow and incorrectly set chain lengths etc. more tension on a chain will always increase wear no matter what the reason or application is.

 

Edit: similarly if you are able to smash a hill in the 11T cog at 350W its the same thing basically lol

 

properly set (H-L and B - screws on derailleurs, chainline tweaks etc will also have a major influence...if you cant back pedal on you biggest cog on your 1X, you are not at your most efficient setting imo....why boost is basically voefie too in most cases. 

"stiffer " wheels at the expense of sh*tter chainlines.

Edited May 8, 2019 by morneS555