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  • 3 years later...
Posted

So Saturday while ambling along on my gravel bike the front wheel suddenly went flat ... surprised to find the tubeless valve had 'pulled through' the rim, decided to summon a team car. None were immediately available so while waiting for the nearest one I decided to see what I could do. Pulled it out back through the top and checked through my little 'bag of tricks'.

Not much there but there was a plastic presta to schrader adapter and for some reason an elastic girls usually use for their ponytails. Forced the adapter over the end of the valve and then wrapped the elastic as sort of a 'seal' around. Put it back in, there was still some sealant in. Tightened it just finger tight hoping for the best. Having broken the bead I couldn't inflate it with a hand pump, I don't carry bombs on training rides. 

Walked to the One Stop nearby, took the wheel off removed the valve core, inflated with the car tyre pump till the tyre seated. Quickly put the core back, inflated hard as I could with the hand pump. 

Cancelled the team car and rode the 20k's home no problem, in fact it was still hard when I went to sort it out today. 

 

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Posted (edited)

So I've got a 1x drive-chain, but my derailleur doesn't have a clutch, so I pretty much average 1 chain drop per ride over 50km.

Was finally sick of it (nothing worse than dropping your chain in the bunch in a race then watching it disappear into the distance while you get your hands dirty sticking it back on...). So I fashioned my own chain guide using some thick plastic and a soldering iron:
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The goal was mainly to stop the chain jumping when I hit a bump whilst on a small cog at the back,

So far (3 weeks on), the results are surprisingly good. Only 1 drop (hit a big bump going very fast), and importantly made it through 99er unscathed. 

Edited by MongooseMan
Posted

I have a Trek with their stupid knock block headset. If you don't know what this is, your headset only has limited rotation to prevent the fork hitting the frame. Your headset is keyed to your stem via special spacers that lock the top race of the headset to the fork. If you want to run a non knock block compatible stem you need a special adapter which is essentially a collar that replaces one of your spacers and has the correct slots to key into the headset.

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When I enquired about the price of this adapter I was told, with a straight face, its R750 sir. There is no way Im paying that.

I found an old BBB seat collar with a internal diameter of 28.6mm, the same as a steerer tube and spent 45 minutes with a file. Voila, DIY Knock block adapter.

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