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Posted

Depends on the size and quantity of the abrasive agent in the lubricant. 

 

This is very much the crux of the hmatter..Fine soft particles is going to doer much less harm than fine hard particles.

Water in itself isn't a wear agent but there is a tipping point where it becomes too much and its presence becomes negative. All lubricating oils are engineered to cope with a bit of water. The problem is that a fork stanchion doesn't have a lot of lubricating oil inside so it can become a problem in a relatively short time.

Foam rings under the forks wiper is a simple filter. If its not dirty then its not working. it should be cleaned often hence the 50hr wiper service and replaced at 120hr (it does break down too)

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Posted

Cool. Look forward to it. I did a search last night and found a paper that was beyond my comprehension. I couldn't work out if the water was causing more wear or less wear or both (depending on the pressure the water was put under).

Do you still have a link for that complex paper? I'm just super curious!

Posted

I'll have a look and see if I can find it again. I can't remember the key words I searched for.

You can search the Society for Tribology and Lubricating engineers database. There has been numerous papers published on the topic. The results are very application and condition specific.

Posted

I have come across the opposite of being a bad home Bike mechanic, I recently bought a per-owned bike from a bike shop(not going to mention the shop) and with the first ride the front derailer and gears were very sticky and clunky(being Ultegra R8050, I was expecting better), then I decided to replace the cable and then saw this at the bottom where the internal cables comes out of the frame, not even to mention the limit screws.

that's a special kinda special :wacko:

Posted

 

 

It actually makes a huge difference what medium the abrasive material is held/suspended in and just as importantly, the pressure that those abrasives are under.

 

Dirt particles, in foam rings that are well lubricated, have little to almost no force put on them that would cause them to push on the stanchions and cause wear to the extent that certain damage is being blamed. Sure, there is some contact and some microscopic wear, but nothing that would ever be noticeable.

There are many factors, including frequency. Shocks on a mountain bike are pretty much moving perpetually and you have thousands of strokes in a fairiy short time. In those circumstances even fairly light pressure may cause visible wear. But it's a matter of degree and practicality. Everything wears out eventually but practically it may not matter. Whether it matters is very often determined by personal criteria. Some guys replace bikes annually and don't care. Others may want to ride them for decades. Just like with cars.

Posted

I have fitted my last 2 pairs of grips easily by using the cable tie method. Worked perfectly. No spray or compressor required. Just make sure that the rough side of the tie faces towards the bar and pull the tie out slowly.

 

Sunlight soap works so much easier .Rather show me an easy way to remove them

Posted

Sunlight soap works so much easier .Rather show me an easy way to remove them

I use a flat blade screw driver that I push in under the grip and then use a syringe with water squirted in behind .... wiggle wiggle and repeat, before you know it the grip is off with no effort.

 

Now if you have an air compressor you can very easily blast the grip off.

Posted

I learned 2 lessons recently:

- don't hit your finger with the 4lb hammer. It tickles a bit

- buy good tools. The cheap stuff breaks too easily

You broke a 4lb hammer whilst tickling your fingers ???? I hope you use a torque wrench with that lack of feeling in your hands
Posted

You broke a 4lb hammer whilst tickling your fingers I hope you use a torque wrench with that lack of feeling in your hands

separate incidents. When I get to the point that I am using a hammer and spanner simultaneously I tend to stop and have good think about what's going on. I do try to use torque wrenches when applicable, but when you're disassembling 40years worth of drunk monkey maintenance you need a little percussive persuasion. For reassembly I take the time to clean threads properly and add loctite or grease, application dependent

Posted

separate incidents. When I get to the point that I am using a hammer and spanner simultaneously I tend to stop and have good think about what's going on. I do try to use torque wrenches when applicable, but when you're disassembling 40years worth of drunk monkey maintenance you need a little percussive persuasion. For reassembly I take the time to clean threads properly and add loctite or grease, application dependent

#Technical Tap

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