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The toolbox thread


100Tours

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My chain breaker failed on a 12 speed chain.

 

Nothing a file can't fix to file down the pin that pushes out the pins.

 

Obviously I learnt this the hard. Doubt I'll get a replacement, but it be paired with most other chain breakers.

Shucks. I prefer to learn out of other's misfortunes.

 

Since I'm running shimano 12s now, so you mind sharing where I'll have to get filing?

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Shucks. I prefer to learn out of other's misfortunes.

 

Since I'm running shimano 12s now, so you mind sharing where I'll have to get filing?

just carry a battery powered angle grinder in your back pack when cycling and you won't need a file for goodness sake!

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Shucks. I prefer to learn out of other's misfortunes.

 

Since I'm running shimano 12s now, so you mind sharing where I'll have to get filing?

the picture is an internet picture but merely for illustration purposes, but this needs to "thinner" you can check this by putting it against your chain

 

post-8906-0-48435100-1618564766_thumb.jpg

Edited by Meezo
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The Battery Battle!

 

Recently I purchased another "tyre deflator", to round out the set required for doing anything from furniture making to building walls and fences.

 

After much research (and watching many episodes of Scott Brown) I settled on the Milwaukee M18 Framing Nailer (gasless and cordless).

 

teaser_image_170192_1.jpg?itok=0Mqiw5Tc

 

The Plus Side: No more renting a gas powered one (and no more paying for gas cartridges)

 

The Down Side: All 3 nailers are on 3 different battery platforms (Ryobi for the 18Ga, AEG for the 15Ga and now Milwaukee for the framing).

 

The result is that I'm now on 5 battery platforms and run 6 chargers:

  • 2x AEG 18V (as most of the tools are AEG so I doubled up to allow flexibility)
  • 1x AEG12V
  • 1x Ryobi
  • 1x Makita (dual charger at least)
  • 1x Milwaukee

So in the battery battle, it is almost impossible to consolidate down to 1 as not all the above brands make all the tool options.

 

Makita would be the closest as they make an equivalent of everything I have, with the exception of the gasless framing nailer, but I started off with AEG and was fairly well kitted with those until heading down the Makita 18V path.

 

In the words of Cher... "if I could turn back time!"

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One of the best Price vs Time Saved (or could have saved) tools recently purchased.

 

71++aW9ZzvL._AC_SS450_.jpg

 

I spent nearly 2hrs trying to route lighting cable through two 8mm holes perpendicular from each other, behind the back panels of some kitchen cabinetry.

 

I tried wire, magnets, the vacuum cleaner, and just about everything in between. No luck.

 

Quick trip to the hardware store and an attempt at explaining what I was looking for ("the long silver spring-thing with the claw that comes out the end" :lol: ), I eventually found this $5 piece of magic!

 

Got home, put some twine through the one hole. The pickup tool through the perpendicular one, and in seconds I was able to do what hours of "ingenuity" could not.

 

The result:

 

post-10758-0-58547300-1618786955_thumb.jpg

(LED light strip driver fed from power outlet in tall left cupboard)

 

Best $5 I ever spent!

Edited by patches
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Finally settled on a brushcutter on the weekend. Choice was between the Dewalt and the Makita battery options. Ended up with the Makita as it came with all the accessories I need as well as two extra free batteries. String, plastic blade, metal blade, harness etc all included.

 

Some beast. Battery runs about thirty mins in thick vegetation and takes 45 mins to charge, so all set with 3 sets of batteries.

 

df07bcc5257f560e4c1af533e78960ad.jpg

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I hung a 200l geyser side mounted on a wall with 18mm rawl bolts a few weeks back with nothing but the bottom end makita cordless drill with hammer function. Pilot with a 6mm drill then followed through with a bigger bit(shank turned down to fit in the chuck). I can't say it was a struggle at all. I have an SDS and a 1400w corded drill but the reality is life if just easier with a cordless drill... I still use the corded drill with the tile cement auger and the sds is there purely for deconstruction and the infrequency of using those tools means that cheap corded out weighs the cordless price.

 

I am also eyeing out the battery trim router, but will see if budget allows, there is a lot of building work in my future and other tools will take preference.

Just by the way you should never use rawl bolts in brickwork, the compressive strength of the bricks is not high enough. It is better to use nylon plugs and coach screws

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Just by the way you should never use rawl bolts in brickwork, the compressive strength of the bricks is not high enough. It is better to use nylon plugs and coach screws

This is news to me, I always thought Rawl bolts did a better job than nylon plugs.

I really dislike nylon plugs

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Any recommendations for a tool roll? I want to take some bike tools along when I go away for a weekend but not necessarily take along a whole toolbox. 

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Just by the way you should never use rawl bolts in brickwork, the compressive strength of the bricks is not high enough. It is better to use nylon plugs and coach screws

 Noted for future. Figured I would just use the same thing as was used previously- the dairy is old and there are the remnants of the previous 2 geysers mounting rawl bolts so I just moved it 30cm down and put in new rawl bolts...

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Any recommendations for a tool roll? I want to take some bike tools along when I go away for a weekend but not necessarily take along a whole toolbox.

I had the same thought, but then I just got a smaller toolbox and put my To-go tools in there. Lo and behold, over a few weeks it became my main toolbox, and now I have a box in the corner of my workshop with the less often used tools, and a little box that can fix nearly anything.

I'm not even mad about it.

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Just by the way you should never use rawl bolts in brickwork, the compressive strength of the bricks is not high enough. It is better to use nylon plugs and coach screws

First I've heard of that, does that mean they are only supposed to be used in concrete?
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I've been in a lot of trouble recently. I was driving home from work, (I had a Lexus early) and suddenly something started rattling under the car. I stop and see that the transmission is bent the other way. Thank God I had a bicycle in the trunk. I got on my bike and rode to the nearest repair center. I called a tow truck, and they brought me to the service station. But here's the problem, no one knows what the problem is. But I found this problem in repair manuals about 722.9 transmissionIt was a cardan shaft, as a result of the impact one of the parts of the shaft fell off, so the car became unmanageable.

Edited by Anonimus Suminona
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I've been in a lot of trouble recently. I was driving home from work, (I had a Lexus early) and suddenly something started rattling under the car. I stop and see that the transmission is bent the other way. Thank God I had a bicycle in the trunk. I got on my bike and rode to the nearest repair center. I called a tow truck, and they brought me to the service station. But here's the problem, no one knows what the problem is.

The problem is you should have cycled to the nearest bicycle shop and bought another bike :P

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I've been in a lot of trouble recently. I was driving home from work, (I had a Lexus early) and suddenly something started rattling under the car. I stop and see that the transmission is bent the other way. Thank God I had a bicycle in the trunk. I got on my bike and rode to the nearest repair center. I called a tow truck, and they brought me to the service station. But here's the problem, no one knows what the problem is.

On flyer, your transmission?

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First I've heard of that, does that mean they are only supposed to be used in concrete?

You can use them in brick but they need to be super hard. I know rawl bolt themselves say that their product can be used in anything but on a course with fischer fixings they said a nylon anchor with a coach screw is better

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