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Posted

Ja, i feel your pain. Heck i even offer to do some of the basic things on my riding buddies’ bikes. I do support my lbs though by buying parts there and this means that when i need advice or a specialist tool, he is willing to help me out.

 

It really is a pain when you pay someone for a service and you get sub par service, this can be because of many reasons but ultimately it doesnt take away from the fact that you as the end user then sit with the baked potato.

 

Not sure where you are located, if you are near the northern suburbs in CT i can help you if you want. It will cost you a decent cup of coffee ????????

 

I hear you man. This experience has me thinking that it's best if I figure out general maintenance on my own. It's extremely frustrating & discouraging.

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Posted

Ha ha. Thank you. I'm in JHB. If I'm ever in CT, the coffee is on me. 

 

Ja, i feel your pain. Heck i even offer to do some of the basic things on my riding buddies’ bikes. I do support my lbs though by buying parts there and this means that when i need advice or a specialist tool, he is willing to help me out.

It really is a pain when you pay someone for a service and you get sub par service, this can be because of many reasons but ultimately it doesnt take away from the fact that you as the end user then sit with the baked potato.

Not sure where you are located, if you are near the northern suburbs in CT i can help you if you want. It will cost you a decent cup of coffee
 

Posted

Just tried the pumping. No luck. Still pulls to the bar. Fingers went stiff. 

 

Agree. Sounds like air in the system. When you pump the lever does it go "hard" again? 

 

If you're in JHB take the bike to Sprocket & Jack. They will definitely sort you out. 

Which brand of brakes are you using?

 

 

Try pumping, always a good idea.

 

I've noticed that on rocky terrain I need to pump the brakes three or four times before it bites. (As you say, no resistance even with lever is against handlebar).

 

This seems to happen when the oil level in the brake lever reservoir is low. I bought a bottle of hydraulic oil and unscrew the plug on the brake lever and just top up the oil if this happens. Takes about 2 minutes per brake lever to top up.

 

Good luck.

Posted

I am not sure what happened on the first service, but the second service definitely put brand new pads in. So I'm sure of that at least.

 

 

On a previous bike this happened over time .... the long pull on the lever co-incided with wear on the pads.  Once I replaced the pads it was perfect again.

 

 

But yes, a quick bleed would have done the job quicker and cheaper .... I opted to replace the pads, and then having a semi worn set as spare ...

Posted

It's a feature of Shimano brakes you'll have to learn to live with, and happens when; 

Pads slightly worn - levers become spongy.

Brakes bled 4 weeks ago - levers become spongy.

Turn bicycle upside down - levers become spongy. 

Going full send for that KOM and lever become spongy.

Full moon - levers become spongy

Posted

It's a feature of Shimano brakes you'll have to learn to live with, and happens when; 

Pads slightly worn - levers become spongy.

Brakes bled 4 weeks ago - levers become spongy.

Turn bicycle upside down - levers become spongy. 

Going full send for that KOM and lever become spongy.

Full moon - levers become spongy

hahahahahaha

 

I reckon you guys have had lemons.

 

I have a set of older gen SLX brakes that have been faultless for about 5 years on various bikes.

 

I also have a set of Zee 4 pots that have been thrown around comprehensively and been faultless.

 

I did have a lemon though. I blew the seals on my back brake lever on a set of new gen M8000 XT's. That was DED. Had to be rebuilt and then for some reason developed a wandering bite point which I could never get rid of. I binned it.

Posted

They're not shimanos. I inherited the bike, and I'm not sure where the components came from. The brakes are some TecPro Draco or something to that effect. 

 

 

It's a feature of Shimano brakes you'll have to learn to live with, and happens when; 

Pads slightly worn - levers become spongy.

Brakes bled 4 weeks ago - levers become spongy.

Turn bicycle upside down - levers become spongy. 

Going full send for that KOM and lever become spongy.

Full moon - levers become spongy

Posted

It's a feature of Shimano brakes you'll have to learn to live with, and happens when; 

Pads slightly worn - levers become spongy.

Brakes bled 4 weeks ago - levers become spongy.

Turn bicycle upside down - levers become spongy. 

Going full send for that KOM and lever become spongy.

Full moon - levers become spongy

 

Never had it on any of the very many cheaper shimano brakes I have had .... hoping mine was a dud and the new set holds up .....

 

 

NOT fun doing the Traverse or any other section which requires proper brakes and you feel the lever getting ever closer during the ride !!!

 

 

I am certainly considering alternate options .... open for suggestions from those in the know.  Just IRKS to spend money improving a brand new bike ....

Posted

They're not shimanos. I inherited the bike, and I'm not sure where the components came from. The brakes are some TecPro Draco or something to that effect. 

Tektro? 

Just burn them and save yourself a lot of trouble. Once had a set of those, and could never get them to work properly. They're literally the only brakes worse than formula c1s and Shimano XTs I've had.

Posted

Agree with what everyone has said, sounds like there is air in the system.

 

I had a similar issue, bike went to 2 different shops to sort the issue out and every time after a few rides or even during a ride the lever went spongy or pulled to the handle bar.  Did some searches on google, and found this video.  Went and bought a bleeding kit from a shop and followed this video, this sorted the issue out 100%.

 

https://youtu.be/NxxWQ4lFHio

 

Very simple process, give it a try

Posted

Try pumping, always a good idea.

 

I've noticed that on rocky terrain I need to pump the brakes three or four times before it bites. (As you say, no resistance even with lever is against handlebar).

 

This seems to happen when the oil level in the brake lever reservoir is low. I bought a bottle of hydraulic oil and unscrew the plug on the brake lever and just top up the oil if this happens. Takes about 2 minutes per brake lever to top up.

 

Good luck.

Might be important to mention that not all makes use the same 'hydraulic oil'... But then again having been involved with a bike shop I'm sure my advice should probably be ignored [emoji12]
Posted (edited)

It's a feature of Shimano brakes you'll have to learn to live with, and happens when; 

Pads slightly worn - levers become spongy.

Brakes bled 4 weeks ago - levers become spongy.

Turn bicycle upside down - levers become spongy. 

Going full send for that KOM and lever become spongy.

Full moon - levers become spongy

hahahahahaha can't agree more, I've had one of those on every bike I had so far, once you replace the lever it goes away. Next time I buy a bike I buy spare levers as well to save time :D

 

There's always one mechanic that will pop the piston. But what I don't understand it that apparently you do so buy pushing fluid up from the caliper to the lever with a serynge, yet all the tutorials on youtube say to do it like this...

Edited by Jbr
Posted

They're not shimanos. I inherited the bike, and I'm not sure where the components came from. The brakes are some TecPro Draco or something to that effect. 

Had a set of them. Tried braking down a hill and all they did was warp the rotor. Get some new brakes.

Posted

hahahahahaha can't agree more, I've had one of those on every bike I had so far, once you replace the lever it goes away. Next time I buy a bike I buy spare levers as well to save time :D

 

There's always one mechanic that will pop the piston. But what I don't understand it that apparently you do so buy pushing fluid up from the caliper to the lever with a serynge, yet all the tutorials on youtube say to do it like this...

 

There's your problem.

 

Read the manual, not the Pootube video. 

Posted

As an aside, pumping the lever is just to see if there is air in the lever and not a flaccid seal.

 

If the seals are gone it won't bite but just keep pulling back once there is pressure.

 

You shouldn't be 'topping up' the reservoirs. If you are there is a leak or you haven't bled your brakes in years!

 

Ideally it is a closed system with no air. Ideally. Nothing in or out!

A flaccid seal you say...

post-10323-0-26522200-1602255713_thumb.jpg

Posted

Fading brakes = Air in the system - End of story

 

Most videos from OEM's on how to bleed brakes are in a perfect world with brand new brakes - In the real world with used brakes things are different.

 

So when you finished bleeding like normal or as per their instructions you need to bleed again. But this time the brake calipers need to be removed and turned at different angles while tapping them with the handle of a screwdriver. Flick all the brake pipes and shake/tap the lever bodies. then bleed again - you will be surprised at how much air is still trapped after the first bleed

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