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Lighter mountain bike wheels


Nicomrs
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On 6/13/2021 at 8:19 PM, Nicomrs said:

Hi all,

Currently running dt swiss m1900 wheels on my canyon neuron and i want to loose some weight on my bike.

Considering carbon wheels but how much will i gain? Will it be worth it?

Hi there,

This is going to sound a little strange as usually the distributor/sales person for a brand wouldn't actively point out their product is heavier than expected... but for the purposes of this thread I wanted to point out that the DT Swiss M 1900 wheels (assuming you are boost and 29er) is in fact closer to 2050g not the 1750g mentioned.

The M 1900 are the trail wheels (what the M stands for) and are the entry point wheels (what the 1900 stands for) in the DT Swiss range, so for their price, reliability, intended use they are not bad wheels at all, but given your predicament with your riding buddies it's obviously not suited to your needs. 

If you're wanting to make your bike a more trail/XC leaning then saving weight on the rims/tyres would be absolutely the best place to start. Note: I said best, not cheapest or easiest!

The M 1900 wheels are great for their intended use and should fetch a decent price if you sold them complete! 

 

Hope this helps

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If you want to make you bike superlight and bankrupt your family

garbaruk.com

schmolke.com

Trickstuff.com

Many wheel options but Aivee hubs should help lighten your bike and ensure poverty is permanent 

I wouldn’t do this to a non xc bike though 

Or get an ebike, cheaper than those parts and you’ll drop your mates up all hills 

 

 

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Just now, Wayne pudding Mol said:

If you want to make you bike superlight and bankrupt your family

garbaruk.com

schmolke.com

Trickstuff.com

Many wheel options but Aivee hubs should help lighten your bike and ensure poverty is permanent 

I wouldn’t do this to a non xc bike though 

Or get an ebike, cheaper than those parts and you’ll drop your mates up all hills 


PS as mentioned a saddle is often the cheapest place to save weight

 

Edited by Wayne pudding Mol
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Shoot me a message and we can chat about saving you some weight.

A strong carbon enduro wheelset can easily weigh 1800g - an alloy set will be over 2000g (strong 30mm inner width rims)

Choosing carefully, you can drop the wheelset weight close to 1600g or lighter, but you'll be paying over R20k for the set.

Best value for money is getting lighter tyres - you can save 200g per tyre easy.

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On 6/15/2021 at 2:56 PM, Wayne pudding Mol said:

If you want to make you bike superlight and bankrupt your family

garbaruk.com

schmolke.com

Trickstuff.com

Many wheel options but Aivee hubs should help lighten your bike and ensure poverty is permanent 

I wouldn’t do this to a non xc bike though 

Or get an ebike, cheaper than those parts and you’ll drop your mates up all hills 

 

 

Solid advice. Imagine the disappointment after having spent a fortune to get your bike lighter and ,  you still get dropped by your mates (on heavier bikes)  on the climbs. I used to be a weight weenie but realised very soon that it can become an obsession and very very costly exercise  with no tangible gains in performance . Make peace with yourself. Some riders are just better climbers than others. We are not all equal when it comes to climbing.

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It’s a trail bike, you can do what you want to it, it’s not going to keep up with XC bikes all other factors remaining the same. 
 

Either ride it and enjoy it as a trail bike, and accept it’s not an XC bike, or sell it and get an XC bike. 
 

A 14kg XC bike is still going to climb faster than a 13kg trail bike. It’s not about the weight, it’s about the geometry. Obviously there are exceptions - trail bikes that climb dam well and XC bikes that don’t, but apply the old “horses for courses” saying here and save yourself some money and wasted effort. 
 

PS: Carbon wheels are nice, but they are not as life changing as some make them out to be. I am riding a very expensive and light carbon wheelset on my bike, and although it’s nice, there is no way I can honestly say it’s actually given me a fraction out of what they cost. Carbon wheels like most other pikey bits on your bike should only be justified by how much you want it, not by how much “gain” it is going to give you.

Edited by Grease_Monkey
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2 hours ago, Grease_Monkey said:

It’s a trail bike, you can do what you want to it, it’s not going to keep up with XC bikes all other factors remaining the same. 
 

Either ride it and enjoy it as a trail bike, and accept it’s not an XC bike, or sell it and get an XC bike. 
 

A 14kg XC bike is still going to climb faster than a 13kg trail bike. It’s not about the weight, it’s about the geometry. Obviously there are exceptions - trail bikes that climb dam well and XC bikes that don’t, but apply the old “horses for courses” saying here and save yourself some money and wasted effort. 
 

PS: Carbon wheels are nice, but they are not as life changing as some make them out to be. I am riding a very expensive and light carbon wheelset on my bike, and although it’s nice, there is no way I can honestly say it’s actually given me a fraction out of what they cost. Carbon wheels like most other pikey bits on your bike should only be justified by how much you want it, not by how much “gain” it is going to give you.

I know it would never be a xc bike but the neuron was deigned to fill the gap between xc and trail, it climbs very well but i want it better.

Im gonna play around with tyres first,it came out with 2.3 forecasters and now i have 2.4 ardent and 2.4 aspen.

Like i mentioned it deccents like a beast, i just want that little bit extra on the climbs.

Considering going back to forecaster in front and rekon race rear.

Lets see how it goes

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Simple test if you want to see. They might be better climbers and you might be a better time trile typre rider. at some pint the scarifice is made and peace is achieved.

But if weight is such an issue.

How many bottles do you run, camel back etc. Perhaps try and do a ride without them and see if you still get dropped. might be the cheaper way of finding out before selling your left nut for something that might add 0 benefit.

My titan Cyper when loaded is around 15/18kg and i leave it at that all the time and do my climbs. some days i get dropped some days i dont. But does not bother me as on the long distance stuff i do better than they do and on the shorter stuff they kick my ass.

 

Different strokes for different folks.

 

If i really want to go do a segment to see how i shape up against them i strip my bike clean and then go and balls to the wall it and the difference is really not worth the money on making it lighter. 

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9 hours ago, Nicomrs said:

I know it would never be a xc bike but the neuron was deigned to fill the gap between xc and trail, it climbs very well but i want it better.

Im gonna play around with tyres first,it came out with 2.3 forecasters and now i have 2.4 ardent and 2.4 aspen.

Like i mentioned it deccents like a beast, i just want that little bit extra on the climbs.

Considering going back to forecaster in front and rekon race rear.

Lets see how it goes

Cheaper options for weight loss - stem seatpost handlebars saddle sealant grips rotors - look around the hub and check out Rapide stuff vs yours 

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173 at 83kg means you could definitely shed a few KG too

I'm marginally taller and 8kg lighter and am by no means skinny or at optimal shreddies.

Get fitter, stronger and lighter. I can guarantee that a few hundred grams on each wheel are not your bottle neck. You still have lots and lots of wiggle room to improve physically before marginal gains become relevant

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2 minutes ago, Jewbacca said:

173 at 83kg means you could definitely shed a few KG too

I'm marginally taller and 8kg lighter and am by no means skinny or at optimal shreddies.

Get fitter, stronger and lighter. I can guarantee that a few hundred grams on each wheel are not your bottle neck. You still have lots and lots of wiggle room to improve physically before marginal gains become relevant

Yeah, I'm a bit taller as well and around 15kg lighter.

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