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Skott5

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Posts posted by Skott5

  1. On 3/6/2023 at 3:44 PM, splat said:

    Painted or raw 

     

    Go painted - as awesome as raw looks when it's new, it's difficult to keep clean and will show all sorts of stains and marks over time.

    I have a raw frame and am regretting it now.

    Translucent - now that's what I would go for !

  2. Is the 26inch MTB market dead - Yes it is

    Can you still ride a 26'er and have fun ? - Yes of course fkn Of course.

    Do I still have a 26'er ? - Yes I do, an old GT hard-tail that I'm sentimentally attached too

    Are 26'ers better than Modern Geometry 29'ers ? In my opinion NO - Getting on my old 26'er every now and again for a squirt is novel and fun, but I think it's more of a nostalgic euphoria than anything really tangible.

    My Hyrax is far superior in every conceivable way than any 26'er I've ever ridden and I've ridden a few over the last 20 years.

    Just my humble opinion.

     

  3. 14 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

     

    Each to their own.

    the problem with this is if you tried this with a SRAM XO1 or XX1 cassette you'd be in for R8k to R10k replacement when a cheap R350 tool can help you get the maximum useful life out of the chain before you wreck the cassette.

     

    as for financial gain, If we consider that a 12 s chain at will wear from 0.5% to 0.75% within months and that at this point the shifting performance, and chain retention is shot and the the cassette is not going to work with a new chain. If I apply my mileage accumulation of around 6000km /annum on the mtb = one chain and one chain ring (OEM parts i.e SRAM Xsync2 and XX1 chain) replaced at <0.5% wear

    Chain ring = R1600

    Chain = R1800

    Total = R3400 per annum

    cassette last me 4 years therefore my running costs over the life of the cassette = 

    (3xR3400) = R10200-00 roughly over 24000km (R0.43c /km)

    If I run the chain and cassette to absolute end of useful life I would be replacing both every 18months or 9000km? I'd be in for 

    Chain ring = R1600

    Chain = R1800

    Cassette = R10000

    or R13400 at the 18000km point and roughly R0.75c/km

    I think I'll take the 43c/km running cost option, wouldn't you?

     

     

     

     

     

    Disclaimer: Individual usage cases may alter actual running costs

    There's an easier way.

    Run a GX Cassette - it survive the upcoming nuclear fallout from the Koeberg meltdown.

    Run a GX chain at around 650 bucks with a Csixx Chainring. Ride the chain ring until it starts to look like sharks teeth and the chain starts slipping.

    Keep everything lubed and clean as best as possible and spend the money you saved on post ride beers..  Leave the measuring to surveyors ..life will be better :)

  4. 2 hours ago, MTBRIDER1234 said:

    Additionally, I can't speak for the new pikes, but I have heard that a 160 pike can be quite flexy, due to the fact that it has the least bushing overlap out of all the travel options, because that is the max travel for that fork - and in my opinion, if you want 160 then go for a lyrik.

    I have an older 160mm travel adjust Pike and it's solid. Then again I probably don't have the talent to ride it to flexing point, but I did square edge a concrete block hidden in grass the other day that destroyed both front and back tyres and required some creative panel beating to straighten the rims. The Pike didn't flinch, and saved me that day, using all 160mm of travel to absorb what it could and the wheels had to cope with the rest.

  5. 5 hours ago, El Duderino said:

    I'm no expert in these matters and I stand corrected, but the issue is probably geometry. If you were on an old Scott Spark, the head angle is probably about 69/70 degrees with a 70 to 100 mm stem. This puts your weight quite forward, meaning there is more weight on the front tyre, making cornering and handling more precise and less vague feeling. Weight on the front tyre increases grip which means more grip when cornering. A Pyga Hyrax probably has 66 or 65 degree head angle, and a short 30 or 40 mm stem. This moves your weight back quite significantly, reducing weight on the front tyre, giving that vague handling feeling and reduced grip when cornering. The Hyrax geometry is great for steep/technical descents, and requires an adjustment on tight, flat, non technical singletrack. You need to consciously start weighting that front tyre in flat corners, or you will keep washing out, even if you have that tractor tyre, the Assagay, up front.

    The seat tube is steeper on the Hyrax and it's a pretty well balanced bike. If anything it's actually front wheel biased as far as weight distribution is concerned.

    I think Fred has other factors at play, maybe even locking up the front brakes into corners.

  6. I cant afford Leatt, but managed to buy 2 pairs of gloves a while back. Don't know the model name but they are minimalist. I dont like heavy thick gloves and would ride without gloves if I didnt sweat so much. Fit is ok, quality is Meh. The elastic around the wrist section stretched out in no time so they dont fit snugly anymore - not a biggie because they still work, but compared to other brands I use I would rate them as average.

  7. 1 hour ago, Danger Dassie said:

    Such a personal choice, I'm a fan, always have been. Although currently I'm running XT 12spd and I've always like Shimano's trigger shifters, especially with the double action. A bit tempted to try out the gripshift for a bit though. 

    Psssst ... Shimano 12 Speed Derailleur works with a SRAM gripshift - Same indexing.

    I'm an old Grip shift advocate, been using them for 15 Years now, but don't mind triggers. 

  8. If it's priced right it will sell.

    On the timing issue - there seems to be a massive backlog at the deeds offices all around the country due to covid restrictions etc.

    On average deals are taking 4 months from the time the OTP is signed till registration at the deeds office.

    They can always pay occupational rent should you wish to move out and it hasn't registered yet. 

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