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Posted

attachicon.gif20191013_171918_resize.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20191013_171956(0)_resize.jpg

 

Does anyone know anything about these grinders. especially the company?

 

I am thinking about letting this go for about R800 on FB. Is that a fair price? They mostly seem to go for R1000 or thereabouts in looking through google. But I cannot actually find anything on the FEMCO company itself.

 

I inherited this from my Dad - but it is time to let this stuff, and all that it carries, go.

 

Femco is well known, still going as an electric motor supplier I think.

 

R 800 is a bit high IMO https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-power-tools/eastern-pretoria/femco-bench-grinder/1006092334790910259545409

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Posted (edited)

Do you guys know the JESSEM Clear Cut stock guides?  I recently made a DIY version.  Unfortunately my wheels only have standard bearings, so they do not prevent kick-back, but they do the other two fuctions:  Keep the stock down and tight to the fence.  Quick and easy to make from some off-cuts.

 

I just need to fire that narrator or send him for some serious voice-over training!    ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is an overview of the commercial version.

 

 

 

Edited by carrera4s
Posted (edited)

Do you guys know the JESSEM Clear Cut stock guides? I recently made a DIY version. Unfortunately my wheels only have standard bearings, so they do not prevent kick-back, but they do the other two fuctions: Keep the stock down and tight to the fence. Quick and easy to make from some off-cuts.

 

I just need to fire that narrator or send him for some serious voice-over training! ;)

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bmeTZQBpfM&t=2s

 

 

 

 

Here is an overview of the commercial version.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wzA0frakBY

I've been toying with the idea of diy version as that Jessem guides are just ridiculously overpriced.

Kick back shouldn’t be an issue if you use a riving knife, apply correct technique and your boards have at least one flat surface to register. So I wouldn't worry about not having that aspect running bearings instead.

Edited by stefmeister
Posted

Just composed a 35 page snag list on what is meant to have been a very high end timber stair and balustrade installation ...... Let's just say the liberal use of wood filler and overall shoddy workmanship is really something special here.

 

Not to mention that simple book matching on veneers is also a concept not completely grasped by the contractor.

Posted

Just composed a 35 page snag list on what is meant to have been a very high end timber stair and balustrade installation ...... Let's just say the liberal use of wood filler and overall shoddy workmanship is really something special here.

 

Not to mention that simple book matching on veneers is also a concept not completely grasped by the contractor.

Pictures or it never happened :whistling:

Posted

Pictures or it never happened :whistling:

A quick snap shot of the works, I do not want to mention the project location or show more pics for now as we are presenting this snag list to the contractor and are awaiting his remedial works methodology and proposals.

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Posted

A quick snap shot of the works, I do not want to mention the project location or show more pics for now as we are presenting this snag list to the contractor and are awaiting his remedial works methodology and proposals.

That is genuinely horrible....  I am curious how they will remediate that without a complete replacement

Posted (edited)

That is genuinely horrible....  I am curious how they will remediate that without a complete replacement

That is essentially what would have to happen, but we have to give the contractor the opportunity to propose his remedial works/action before condemning the works as a whole.

Edited by Hairy
Posted

I have a question for you avid woodworkers.  Hopefully someone can help me out here.

 

A friend of mines’ dad gave me an old wood lathe that was standing in their garage and not being used.  I have not used it for a project since I got it, only practiced some spindle turning on it.  I can now confirm I am quite good at tuning spindles with some decent catches on my work.  The F#$*& skew chisel does not want to turn nice beads.  I know, more practice and Youtube videos.

 

I now have a project that I want to do on the lathe, and it requires me to drill a hole in the end of the spindle.  I have a drill chuck for the tail stock, but I only have a drive spur for the head stock.  What is the best why to drill a hole in the end?  Do I just align the drill bit with the centre hole on the spindle and keep the drive spur in the head stock and then turn on the lathe and start advancing the drill bit or is there a better, safer, more accurate way of doing this?  I do not have a jaw chuck and the thread in my headstock is an imperial ¾” thread, so I assume getting one, that is affordable, in SA will not be that easy.

 

So, the question is, will I be ale to drill an accurate hole with what I have and if not, what will be the best, affordable way to go about this.  I don’t have a lot of the wood I want to use for this project so I would like to make sure of what to do and not trail and error this one.

 

Thanks!

Posted

That is essentially what would have to happen, but we have to give the contractor the opportunity to propose his remedial works/action before condemning the works as a whole.

 

have you seen any of their other work to give you some confidence they are capable of the quality of work desired? I'll be very surprised if they do, because frankly, those issues indicate the contractor doesn't have a clue. 

A finish carpenter worth his or her salt would have scribed those stairs in tight, not applied wood filler,and not to that extent.

Posted

have you seen any of their other work to give you some confidence they are capable of the quality of work desired? I'll be very surprised if they do, because frankly, those issues indicate the contractor doesn't have a clue. 

A finish carpenter worth his or her salt would have scribed those stairs in tight, not applied wood filler,and not to that extent.

This particular contractor used to work for a reputable company....the main contractor brought them into the project. He was meant to have been a good contact.

 

Our regular joiners would never have delivered a product like this.

Posted

This particular contractor used to work for a reputable company....the main contractor brought them into the project. He was meant to have been a good contact.

 

Our regular joiners would never have delivered a product like this.

the regulars: sacrificed at the cost altar or...?  :whistling:

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