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Gravel bikes - what do you have and where did you buy it?


Myth

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Do you have more pics? Mrs likes the color. Hoping to get her one, one day.

Here you go.

 

a88b5182733b8978b77c00878c080692.jpg

 

d04ecdd7bc2d953e5ab443d93e1624e9.jpg

 

Since the upgrades, I’ve taken it for 2 rides. One road, another primarily road with a bit of gravel thrown in.

 

The GRX 1x (40t with 11-34 cassette), shorter 80mm stem, Vibrocore 460/25deg bar and 38c Pathfinders (setup tubeless) *completely* transform this bike.

 

Granted, I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of time fiddling with setup, but I can’t remember when last I had a bike which just feels so right. It rolls quickly enough, the riding position is just perfect (with hand movements feeling so natural on this bar), there is enough compliance to smooth out the kind of roads I put my miles in on, and it costs less than half what my Stumpy does. Amazing!

Edited by LazyEnduroRider
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Hi all.

 

I have also been following this thread with interest.

 

Question for all you clever people. 

 

Is it advisable to have 2 sets of tyres, one for road and one for gravel and just swop the tyres for whichever ride you want to do ? 

too much hassle to change, most work pretty well on tar anyway

 

I do 60/40 gravel tar on panaracer gravel kings and they roll great,  Also had some pirellis which were good too.

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How much of a difference does the flared bars actually make?

I can answer this from my experience though mine are even wider

 

on top it feels like the old MTBs, on the hoods your wrist are dead straight so circulation is great and in the drops, not as racy as a roadie but the angle makes it a lot more comfortable

 

I generally ride on the hoods, downhill in the drops and rest up a bit on top

 

Felt weird for one ride, thereafter it's just perfect 

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How much of a difference does the flared bars actually make?

 

Have found on the gravel its a little more stable as get about an extra 30mm width. Also its a little more comfortable with a slightly different position to rest hand.

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I can answer this from my experience though mine are even wider

 

on top it feels like the old MTBs, on the hoods your wrist are dead straight so circulation is great and in the drops, not as racy as a roadie but the angle makes it a lot more comfortable

 

I generally ride on the hoods, downhill in the drops and rest up a bit on top

 

Felt weird for one ride, thereafter it's just perfect 

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How much of a difference does the flared bars actually make?

In my experience, significant.

 

My flared bars are also wider at the tops to start with, but I went from twitchy on the hoods and just as twitchy but lower in the drops, to comfortable in the hoods and stable AF in the drops. The 25deg flare gives me an additional 200mm in the drops, which makes a very noticeable difference.

Edited by LazyEnduroRider
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5eb53f4cb83efaecec15a1b8be581c7e.jpg

Got this Rook Scout, got new bars and a 30T cassette and really really loving the bike. 47mm 650b is Lekker! Wife also enjoys riding it, may get another for holiday!!

2 Quick questions on these bikes, been quite keen on getting one.

 

1) Is the left shifter a 2x just obviously without a shift cable installed?

2) Are the wheels tubeless ready?

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Hi all.

 

I have also been following this thread with interest.

 

Question for all you clever people. 

 

Is it advisable to have 2 sets of tyres, one for road and one for gravel and just swop the tyres for whichever ride you want to do ? 

I have a Niner RLT.

 

2 sets of wheels - 

1x 32mm for light gravel and tar

1x42mm for proper gravel

 

I am sure I can squeeze in a 650b wheelset to run 2.1 wide MTB tyres.

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too much hassle to change, most work pretty well on tar anyway

 

I do 60/40 gravel tar on panaracer gravel kings and they roll great,  Also had some pirellis which were good too.

Agree that one set work well. 

 

I found the 32mm tyres are not a good idea in the Karoo.  Too hard and you have a bucking bronco, too soft and rims gets damaged.

 

42 mm works pretty well (Maxxis Rambler??), but despite the lack of tread, it still creates extra drag on tar..

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2 Quick questions on these bikes, been quite keen on getting one.

 

1) Is the left shifter a 2x just obviously without a shift cable installed?

2) Are the wheels tubeless ready?

Left is just a brake on the left.

 

Rims and tyres are tubless ready and they give you a valve.

 

Currently 20% off for July

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Hi all.

 

I have also been following this thread with interest.

 

Question for all you clever people. 

 

Is it advisable to have 2 sets of tyres, one for road and one for gravel and just swop the tyres for whichever ride you want to do ? 

YES.....no further discussion required....

EDIT...wait, I read that wrong....

NO...

Two sets of wheels, 1 for road, one for gravel..

I have Panaracer Gravel King 35 for road @ 4bar and ~GK Small Knobs 38 @ 2.5bar for gravel

Now the discussion can end!

Edited by capediver
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Here you go.

 

a88b5182733b8978b77c00878c080692.jpg

 

d04ecdd7bc2d953e5ab443d93e1624e9.jpg

 

Since the upgrades, I’ve taken it for 2 rides. One road, another primarily road with a bit of gravel thrown in.

 

The GRX 1x (40t with 11-34 cassette), shorter 80mm stem, Vibrocore 460/25deg bar and 38c Pathfinders (setup tubeless) *completely* transform this bike.

 

Granted, I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of time fiddling with setup, but I can’t remember when last I had a bike which just feels so right. It rolls quickly enough, the riding position is just perfect (with hand movements feeling so natural on this bar), there is enough compliance to smooth out the kind of roads I put my miles in on, and it costs less than half what my Stumpy does. Amazing!

that is a terrible bike I think you should just give it to me 

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