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Posted
19 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Not so much a mistake, but a day of struggling with my new chain (on Friday). Struggled to break the chain at the 4th link (112 length). Turns out the pin has broken off on my Park Tool chain breaker. Thankfully I see there is a replacement tool pin.
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Also struggled to click the new master link together. Had to use the tool, that I’ve had in the toolbox for years, but never used. It was super tight trying by hand.

Once on, I realised I put the chain on the wrong way. Unclick. Turn around. Reinstall.

Then realised it was upside down… OCT (tendencies, not disorder) says the Shimano logo must be right way up when on the top of the chain ring, like the crankset logo.
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Anyway, sanity prevailed and a short while later I was done. New chain days are awesome.

Writing on the outside yes, but upside down, I dont think that's going to make any difference since the chain is pretty much symmetric (no flat top anyway), however, I will in future check for this, didn't know it was a thing until now ... 😊.

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Posted
29 minutes ago, TheoG said:

Writing on the outside yes, but upside down, I dont think that's going to make any difference since the chain is pretty much symmetric (no flat top anyway), however, I will in future check for this, didn't know it was a thing until now ... 😊.

Reminder that the upside down logo is an OCD/OCT thing. ☺️

Posted

It's probably worth it (cheaper) in the long run if you ride a lot to be able to service your fork yourself, even if it's just a lower leg service. The pain is all the different weights and types of oils and greases you need and that they sometimes come in a larger quantity than you'll need. E.g. 3ml of 0-30w and only being able to buy 500ml. And the special tools required to put in wiper seals, etc. In short, sometimes it's just easier to let the shop do it.

Posted
21 minutes ago, FondTF2 said:

Internal cable routing is a B.....tch.

Requires a lot of patience and retry after retry.

Thankfully, google and GCN YouTube are very helpful.

Someone on this forum possibly this thread once mentioned a vacuum cleaner and string. It really has made life easier for me. I ran an armoured cable through a 32mm pvc pipe across a field. Tied a plastic bag to the string and pulled it with vacuum cleaner, then pulled a wire through and then the cable. It was a 70m length of cable and pipe. Worked like a charm. Had fiber installers looking impressed, they thought I was never going to get the cable through.

Posted
57 minutes ago, dave303e said:

Someone on this forum possibly this thread once mentioned a vacuum cleaner and string. It really has made life easier for me. I ran an armoured cable through a 32mm pvc pipe across a field. Tied a plastic bag to the string and pulled it with vacuum cleaner, then pulled a wire through and then the cable. It was a 70m length of cable and pipe. Worked like a charm. Had fiber installers looking impressed, they thought I was never going to get the cable through.

With a carbon frame, magnet set works like a charm.

Posted

For internal routing, I use one of those thin cable sleeves over the old cable through the frame. Then pull out the old cable, whilst the sleeve stays in place. Then just push the new cable through the sleeve. 
 

However, this only works if there is a cable already installed. For first time cable installation, vacuum cleaner and floss it is…

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
10 minutes ago, MrJacques said:

This is not the correct way to route a chain. No wonder it sounded so noisy.

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lol, done that a few times. Fortunately picked up the error on the bike stand before the bike was ridden. 

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