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Posted
58 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

nonsense man...

how wildly different is different ratios of latex, grit, diluent and coagulant?

Okay. Take for the example that the Ryder is water based. The Continental is not. The Ryder you rinse and out with water. The Continental you have to peel out. I wouldn't mix them. The Continental again seems quite different to the Stans. Some harden with C02, some don't. Some are latex based, some are latex free. Strikes me that's pretty different. 

But people must do what they like. I don't care. Me, I don't mix different types. Given I talk nonsense, I'm now out of this thread. 

Posted
33 minutes ago, MudLark said:

Okay. Take for the example that the Ryder is water based. The Continental is not. The Ryder you rinse and out with water. The Continental you have to peel out. I wouldn't mix them. The Continental again seems quite different to the Stans. Some harden with C02, some don't. Some are latex based, some are latex free. Strikes me that's pretty different. 

But people must do what they like. I don't care. Me, I don't mix different types. Given I talk nonsense, I'm now out of this thread. 

They all have water, propylene Glycol, polyethylene glycol some salts for grit, fibres and  a binder, usually latex. The ratios these are mixed varies but these are all compatible. Its not like you if you get the mix wrong by 5% you end up with Jelly.

Sealants that freeze with CO2 will have more water in them, the enthalpy change was CO2 changes from liquid phase to gas takes heat out of the system and water freezes fast binding some of the ingredients with it. higher percentage of the more expensive glycols will reduce the tendency to freeze. 

There's no witchcraft here, mixing sealants won't dissolve your tyres or rims. Although it should be noted that sealants high in ammonia should be avoided in Aluminium alloy rims to avoid corrosion. Ammonium Hydroxide is the actual chemical used (unless someone is really trying to cheap it out -hence beware of imitations)  Most new sealants are using Secondary and Tertiary Amines for the pH adjustment. 

Then all sealants have latex, some use natural latex and others use synthetic latex. This is were this a difference but not an incompatibility.

So if the sky is falling then clean out your tyres. I don't bother and haven't for the last 22 years of using tubeless systems with latex based sealants.

 

PS: can a Mod change the dictionary of this site to English English please. I'm tired of correcting tires to tyres and tyred to tired

Posted

Regarding which 'potion', I use whatever is cheapest or available at my LBS ... in my experience they all work even though some may (difficult to tell) be better than others ... 

Just some passing comments on the other things that have come up, I can concur with a quite a few

- I fill through the valve with one of those MilkIt syringes, just cause I have it, I've used normal syringes as well as just some of those small top up bottles with equal success. Some mess a bit more than others but not anything significant

- I mix sealant types, can't say I've ever had a problem that I could notice and yes I often don't even know what sealant is in the tire I'm filling. I'm not very diligent with record keeping regarding maintenance

- I never bother to clean out old sealant unless I for some rare reason take a tyre off completely and there are large aliens or thick bits all over. By the time I take a tyre off it ends up in the bin

Just some clarification though, I'm just a hacker and not fussed that much with weight or outright performance of sealant or tyres in general ... if it stays up I'm happy!

 

 

Posted
44 minutes ago, FirstV8 said:

A tip for those filling through the valve . Put a bit of Vaseline on the valve /O ring before inserting it again . This keeps the valve sealant free and makes for easy pumping as well .  

I use an earbud to clean the thread before putting the core back.

 

I have seen the core getting clogged and almost ruin a race .... 

Posted
1 hour ago, FirstV8 said:

A tip for those filling through the valve . Put a bit of Vaseline on the valve /O ring before inserting it again . This keeps the valve sealant free and makes for easy pumping as well .  

Right here. I'm going to try this

Posted
3 hours ago, FirstV8 said:

A tip for those filling through the valve . Put a bit of Vaseline on the valve /O ring before inserting it again . This keeps the valve sealant free and makes for easy pumping as well .  

yes thanks for adding this. I've been doing this with removable valve cores for ages and it really does prolong their life and prevent clogging up????

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, DieselnDust said:

So if the sky is falling then clean out your tyres. I don't bother and haven't for the last 22 years of using tubeless systems with latex based sealants.

My philosophy is quite different. People - like me - often look for comparatively light and low rolling resistance tyres. I've never understood the sense in doing that and then letting the crud build up inside the tyre, especially when it pools and forms thick sections. People worry a lot of about weight - well, some anyway - but pay little attention to these aspects of maintaining the tyres. Yet tyres and their rolling resistance can have a material effect on a bikes overall performance, at least as far as I as am aware.

As to mixing sealants, I still am not persuaded that it's good practice. As I say, in my experience some of them have quite different characteristics. This is especially evident to me when cleaning out the tyres. I have also noticed that for example Continental Revosealant seems to change characteristics once it is beyond its expiry date. For me the Ryder sealant is by far the easiest to deal with from a tyre maintenance perspective. The downside is that it's not as fast sealing as the Continental and doesn't seal holes as big as the Stans race sealant. But I find that the last can be a particular challenge to clean out. From a practical tyre maintenance perspective therefore, at least in my experience, they are quite different.

For this reason and because I tend to clean my tyres two or perhaps three times a year and I have a number of bikes with tubeless tyres, this is a not insignificant factor. Also, as I say, because I mostly look to buy and have light, fast rolling tyres

It may be that the components used in the formulations are similar but the ultimate characteristics can be quite different. That's indeed the reason why people find one preferable to another. If there was no difference in characteristics there would be nothing to choose.

YMMV.

Edited by MudLark
Posted
26 minutes ago, eddy said:

Amateur.

If you pump it hard enough you can get it over the ceiling.....

i wont lie...i dread this EVERY time I do a new one and inflate it to the max for it to seat properly haha

Posted
12 hours ago, FirstV8 said:

A tip for those filling through the valve . Put a bit of Vaseline on the valve /O ring before inserting it again . This keeps the valve sealant free and makes for easy pumping as well .  

I just learned something new! ????????

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