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Posted

I'm 1.71m and my saddle is ever so slightly higher than my handlebars. I changed from 29er to 650b last year and I feel way more comfortable and in control. I think for our height 29er is just too big. That being said, I am getting some wrist pains on longer rides these days, so I think I also need to either swap my stem, stop gripping so tightly or just strengthen my core.

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Posted

Wouldn't that have more to do with stem length and bar width than saddle height?

 

Just wondering. The saddle height would create pedal efficiency and comfort, while bending at the hip and reach adjustability would be more related to stem length (and degree)  and bar width.

 

The seat tube is set at a certain angle and the rake/position of the saddle can only move so much.

Bar width, stem length, stem degree, stack height, saddle height. 

 

All things that affect the way in which your body will bend when seated. 

Posted

Stand with your back to a wall.

Feet slightly apart.

Take a book and press it up between your legs as if it were a saddle.

Mark the height on the wall.

Take the measurement from the floor to the mark on the wall.

Take measurement and deduct 100 mm from it.

Now set your saddle to this height from the center of the crank bolt to the top of your saddle.

Micro adjust from there.

Works for me

Posted

Fully agreed, and hence my answer. Gerhard was asking a more generic question about why saddle height is generally above the handle bar, sometimes the same, rarely below.

 

The biggest mistake you can make is adjusting your saddle height and horizontal position to achieve a stack height, this is asking for either a hip, lower back or knee problem.

 

Your saddle is 100% adjusted for your knee's position when the crank is in the horizontal and fully extended positions with your feet in shoes and cleated:

  1. Horizontal - a plumb line through your knee cap should intersect the axle of the pedal
  2. Fully extended - a slight kink in your knee 

Adjusting your stem after that is as important to then achieve stack height/race position which can either be aggressive for the climb, or upright for comfort and downhill control.

^^This. So much this. 

 

Saddles should NOT be moved to achieve a desired reach and / or height relative to bars. The only thing that should matter for seat positioning is your lower half's specific measurements and flexibility characteristics. Obvs for Time Trial cycling it's a bit different due to the way they utilise their muscles to "save" them for the run. 

Posted

Stand with your back to a wall.

Feet slightly apart.

Take a book and press it up between your legs as if it were a saddle.

Mark the height on the wall.

Take the measurement from the floor to the mark on the wall.

Take measurement and deduct 100 mm from it.

Now set your saddle to this height from the center of the crank bolt to the top of your saddle.

Micro adjust from there.

Works for me

 

Too complicated and missus won't like the mark on the wall. 

Arse on saddle, heel on pedal with straight leg. Check other leg.

Tighten.

Go ride.  

Posted (edited)

Another method of determining saddle height is to measure your inside leg from crotch to foot and multiply by 0.85.

 

The result should be the distance between the bottom of the crank to the top of the saddle.

Edited by Eugene
Posted

I'm 1.71m and my saddle is ever so slightly higher than my handlebars. I changed from 29er to 650b last year and I feel way more comfortable and in control. I think for our height 29er is just too big. That being said, I am getting some wrist pains on longer rides these days, so I think I also need to either swap my stem, stop gripping so tightly or just strengthen my core.

Wrong forum post! :ph34r: send to 29er vs 27.5 forum.....

I have tested the same bike with both size wheels! More stability over tech bits and tight turns with 650B. Faster with 29er. That's it! Not a bike size thing, and I'm shorter!

Posted

Too complicated and missus won't like the mark on the wall. 

Arse on saddle, heel on pedal with straight leg. Check other leg.

Tighten.

Go ride.  with your multi tool / torque wrench for micro adjustments during the ride if you don't have a roller or indoor trainer

 

fixed

Posted (edited)

Ok here are the pics- damn hard to take but there-

 

I have flipped the stem. Bar is flat. No spacers. I should mention that I recently upgraded the fork from 100mm to 120mm.

 

I was thinking 27.5 or a Medium 29er but reading all the above I am not so sure. My saddle is comfy for me as it is now. I could source a shorter crank its now 175mm but I could source maybe 170mm but they seem hard to find?

 

Also as Myles said I am seriously thinking of a shorter stem which would slightly lower the stem height, paired with wider bars and as Myles said not a riser bar. 

 

Never done a bike fit. Maybe I should.

 

 

post-51031-0-58530900-1491408232_thumb.jpg

 

post-51031-0-53544500-1491408235_thumb.jpg

 

post-51031-0-20930700-1491408238_thumb.jpg

 

post-51031-0-10257300-1491408244_thumb.jpg

 

 

Your saddle should not be lower than your bars unless you are riding a chopper.

When sitting on your saddle, put the ball of your foot on the pedal with the crank in its lowest position. Your knee should have a very slight bend in it. If the bend is more than slight, then your saddle is too low.

Considering your height, your frame sounds on the small side, making your seat height problem even worse.

Please post a photo of yourself on the bike from the side.

Remember your feet shouldn't touch the ground when sitting on your saddle and a saddle that is too low is setting yourself up for knee issues.

Edited by scubes
Posted

Ok here are the pics- damn hard to take but there-

 

I have flipped the stem. Bar is flat. No spacers. I should mention that I recently upgraded the fork from 100mm to 120mm.

 

I was thinking 27.5 or a Medium 29er but reading all the above I am not so sure. My saddle is comfy for me as it is now. I could source a shorter crank its now 175mm but I could source maybe 170mm but they seem hard to find?

 

Also as Myles said I am seriously thinking of a shorter stem which would slightly lower the stem height, paired with wider bars and as Myles said not a riser bar. 

 

Never done a bike fit. Maybe I should.

 

 

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attachicon.gif2.JPG

 

attachicon.gif3.jpg

 

attachicon.gif4.jpg

Your saddle is a tad to high, in a couple of pics you're feet are pointed down. Try be conscious of your hips the riding to make sure they aren't rocking from side to side.

 

You need a longer stem, to me your stack height is to high, so you aren't going to access your core.

 

You need another picture of your cranks level, but ill bet your seat is too far forward too. Do need to see a picture though.

Posted

Your saddle is a tad to high, in a couple of pics you're feet are pointed down. Try be conscious of your hips the riding to make sure they aren't rocking from side to side.

 

You need a longer stem, to me your stack height is to high, so you aren't going to access your core.

 

You need another picture of your cranks level, but ill bet your seat is too far forward too. Do need to see a picture though.

I tend to agree and will go with this.

Posted

+1 what Myles said. 

the problem with 29ers is their stack height is inherently higher. If you're on the small/short side, 27.5" bikes might fit you better.

In my experience, having your seat height above the handle bars only really matters when climbing steeper hills. Descending technical terrain with higher handlebars is more beneficial as you in any case have to position your body weight around the bike, with lower bars you'll have to compensate more to avoid the feeling of going over the bars. On the other hand, higher bars also makes it slightly more effort to weight the front wheel for extra traction in corners.

 

@OP at 5'8 you must have very short legs to be riding a small frame. 

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