grc Posted September 5, 2019 Share Double check that your chain is the right way around before you replace half your drive train looking for a creak. It saves time as well as a big dose of humble pie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100Tours Posted September 5, 2019 Share My freehub has a lot of chips in from the casset banging on the splines. The casset didn't have a snug fit and wiggled a lot. So I went to my lbs and they told me that they don't have the part and that I need to replace the whole hub because they can't find it.I also didn't have the money so I baught expoy/resin from builders to fill up the small holes. Do you guys think it's better to just glue the whole casset on while I'm at it? I also thought about putting in a very small spacer so that it has an even tighter fit. Ask the hub for the replacement freehub you might be in luck And then consider whether you should do a XD driver upgrade (if this is a MTB) - it fixes the issue for good. Edited September 5, 2019 by 100Tours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted September 5, 2019 Share My freehub has a lot of chips in from the casset banging on the splines. The casset didn't have a snug fit and wiggled a lot. So I went to my lbs and they told me that they don't have the part and that I need to replace the whole hub because they can't find it.I also didn't have the money so I baught expoy/resin from builders to fill up the small holes. Do you guys think it's better to just glue the whole casset on while I'm at it? I also thought about putting in a very small spacer so that it has an even tighter fit. Sounds like you're missing a spacer between the cassette and freehub body - the lockring should take up any play between the cassette and driver. Vetplant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Sywurm Posted September 5, 2019 Share after a wash and lube, Mr.Min also gives the bike a nice shine And your bike smells like a summer breeze...or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackheart Posted September 5, 2019 Share When cutting a fork steerer tube down - measure the length WITH the stem on.....And this I didn't do when working in a bike shop building up a customers brand new bike. jdwet1980, edkin and Hairy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 5, 2019 Share When cutting a fork steerer tube down - measure the length WITH the stem on.....And this I didn't do when working in a bike shop building up a customers brand new bike.and always leave a little length for an extra spacer or two .. .you never know if you are going to sell the fork in the future should you be upgrading, and the potential buyer may just need something a few mm longer in the steerer tube length. gerriemtb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudLark Posted September 5, 2019 Share Double check that your chain is the right way around before you replace half your drive train looking for a creak. It saves time as well as a big dose of humble pie.How do you know what the right way around is, in the first place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave303e Posted September 5, 2019 Share N+1 applies to new tools more than it applies to bikes. You can never have enough tools lechatnoir, Alouette3 and ChrisF 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grc Posted September 5, 2019 Share How do you know what the right way around is, in the first place?In the case of the Shimano chain I have - writing on the outside of the chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasilvarsa Posted September 5, 2019 Share Too much oil (more than 5 ml) in the Air chamber Reduces travel of your fork.The same applies to too many volume spacers installed. No Oil in the air chamber makes your fork feel Super Woody after riding for some Time. (Can cause Damage as Well) Edited September 5, 2019 by dasilvarsa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocknRolla Posted September 5, 2019 Share Too much oil (more than 5 ml) in the Air chamber Reduces travel of your fork.The same applies to too many volume spacers installed. No Oil in the air chamber makes your fork feel Super Woody after riding for some Time. (Can cause Damage as Well) My bike makes me feel like this all the time... BigDL and Hairy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridr Posted September 5, 2019 Share Been at the garage air compressor late at night too many times doing tubeless setups - better not to play late at night! But I have learnt that the top part of the compressor piece at the end of the metal pipe screws off on most garage hoses (but not all) and easier to get the tyre seated with the valve core removed. (on ghetto tubeless with standard tyres - tubeless wheels with tubeless tyres is usually simpler, but not always) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 5, 2019 Share My bike makes me feel like this all the time... RocknRolla and Danger Dassie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh_the. Man Posted September 8, 2019 Share Hey guys I need some advice. I'm 16 btw I baught myself a second hand fork on the hub 2 years ago its a Rockshox Sid xx 2014I paid 4k. Every ride I wipe the dust off the stations with a cloth to fight half the battle of not servicing it. I put in 5-7 hours per week on my bike and now it defenitely needs a service with some new seals. I called every bikeshop in joburg to hear what the best price is and the average price was approximately 1k. 1k ?????????? For 10ml of fork oil some new grease on the damper and 2 pieces of rubber and foam and maybe 1.5 hours worth of labour. Should I just rather buy myself a rigid carbon fork from China for 850 rand. I mostly ride xco in the spurleage and local mtb races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted September 8, 2019 Share That's the going price on a fork service unfortunately. If you are slightly technical, you can do it DIY. First service will be a bit expensive, Del Ray suspension fluid from a motorbike shop, Castrol from Midas for fork oil, some SRAM butter and of course a seal set from your LBS. The lubricants you can at least use for a bunch of services, a seal set is about R250-300 depending where you get it (Fox R500+). I'll confirm which weight suspension fluid and grade of Castrol. Bottles are just not with me at the moment. (All recommended by our suspension guru Droo) Vetplant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABrooks Posted September 8, 2019 Share Hey guys I need some advice. I'm 16 btw I baught myself a second hand fork on the hub 2 years ago its a Rockshox Sid xx 2014I paid 4k. Every ride I wipe the dust off the stations with a cloth to fight half the battle of not servicing it. I put in 5-7 hours per week on my bike and now it defenitely needs a service with some new seals.I called every bikeshop in joburg to hear what the best price is and the average price was approximately 1k.1k ?? For 10ml of fork oil some new grease on the damper and 2 pieces of rubber and foam and maybe 1.5 hours worth of labour. Should I just rather buy myself a rigidcarbon fork from China for 850 rand.I mostly ride xco in the spurleage and local mtb races.Search on the hub, there is a thread somewhere with all the fork oil weights and what is recommended and what is not. When you do the service, have a look on SRAM's website and on youtube (SRAM's channel), they have the service manuals on there for you to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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