Wayne pudding Mol Posted November 12, 2020 Share I'm sure this must have been on this thread and/or I'm incredibly stupid but on my old bikes when fiddling about I often put the saddle on backwards. Some of the older seatposts are easier to work with upsidedown rather than on the bike.Dumb I know and it hasn't just happened once or twice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted November 12, 2020 Share Sort of bike mechanic related. When you buy a home high pressure cleaner to clean your bike, don't put your hand in front of the nozzle to test how strong it is TheoG, Vetplant and The Ouzo 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ouzo Posted November 12, 2020 Share Sort of bike mechanic related. When you buy a home high pressure cleaner to clean your bike, don't put your hand in front of the nozzle to test how strong it isbeen there, done that, lost the skin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Stewart Posted November 12, 2020 Share Sort of bike mechanic related. When you buy a home high pressure cleaner to clean your bike, don't put your hand in front of the nozzle to test how strong it is been there, done that, lost the skin. or your toe... LIEWE OUERS, that hurt. Vetplant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WrightJnr Posted November 12, 2020 Share We get product from Wurth in our workshop. I was given a tube of superglue a while back, that stuff makes what you can buy in the shops look like water. Best super glue I ever used. On the closing wounds.Similar kind of story to yours, was doing some work on our gate, stupid slip of the angle grinder and the grinding wheel hit my knuckle. Took a piece of the glove and the skin and flesh with it.Cleaned it up, put a plater on and it was still dripping blood.So cleaned it up again, super glued it closed and plaster over that.Like yours I probably should have had stitches.I’m a huge fan of Wurth products. Really top top quality. My father in law used them a lot in his business and I often went over to his workshop to “fix” stuff. It always impressed me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildwindfr Posted November 12, 2020 Share We use Wurth and Liqui Moly products in our workshop.I am at the tyre sales side, but often help out when needed.Really good products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J∆kk∆ls Posted November 12, 2020 Share My first bike and first Cape Argus 2011. The night before I thought I would make sure everything was screwed on tight and noticed a loose skrew on the rear derailleur. The next day going I couldn't shift into the high gear. Frosty, Hairy and Vetplant 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meezo Posted November 12, 2020 Share Pushing the air spring in after a service. Atleast 2-3mm of stanchion tube under my nail. As eina as stepping on my kids lego on a sub zero morning Hairy and WrightJnr 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted February 1, 2021 Share I learned a few things yesterday Road tubeless is a SOB To remove a stubborn bead, use a credit card. Either take the wheel to the LBS and pay them to do it or, put the card between the tire and the rim and work it all the way around the tire. This helps breaking the bead loose from the rim where you can't get the tire lever in. A high pressure washer has a place in a workshop, it really helps to remove the sealant build up on the inside of the tire (just watch out for your feet) WrightJnr 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monark Posted February 1, 2021 Share Any tips for a slipping seatpost? All torqued up but slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted February 1, 2021 Share Any tips for a slipping seatpost? All torqued up but slipping.alu or carbon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted February 1, 2021 Share Any tips for a slipping seatpost? All torqued up but slipping. Carbon assembly paste. It has some grit it in which increases friction between post and frame. Edit: There is also a cheaper version. I once pitched up at a race with a freshly built bike and the seat post was slipping down on the warm up so I pulled it out, grabbed some dirt from the trail and poured it onto the greased portion of the post. The big stuff fell off leaving a nice, fine, friction making coating. Worked 100% Edited February 1, 2021 by Eldron Vetplant and Hairy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJacques Posted February 1, 2021 Share Any tips for a slipping seatpost? All torqued up but slipping. Measure your seatpost. Get an old broom stick. Measure, cut and insert into seat tube. Post won't slip down past the point where in makes contact with the broom stick. porqui, Long Wheel Base and Vetplant 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monark Posted February 1, 2021 Share Alu seatpost into a ti frame. I have used the non slip paste but it still persists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grease_Monkey Posted February 1, 2021 Share Alu seatpost into a ti frame. I have used the non slip paste but it still persists.I use carbon paste, and then at the exact height on the seat post wrap a couple of layers of insulation tape around the seat post. If correctly torqued, and carbon paste applied, the insulation tape provides just the right amount of friction for the seat post to stop slipping. Also helps to know exactly to which height to re-insert the seat post after working on the bike. Dusty, Hairy and Quagga 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monark Posted February 1, 2021 Share Thanks GM - will try the tape trick. Grease_Monkey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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