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Posted

Only once you strip a thread in an expensive component do you realise the value in a torque wrench.

 

Remember where you put things and keep the relevant things together. Use cups/trays/bags.

 

You don't realise how useful a magnetic dish is until you have one.

 

If you aren't sure or it's your first time, take pictures. Lots of pictures.

 

If it is small and there is a chance that it can fall and get lost amongst all the crap on the floor, it will.

 

Keep your work area tidy. ALL the time.

 

Use the right tool for the job.

 

Mind your fingers....

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Posted

Stuff I learnt - its is always cheaper and faster to take it to a bike shop and let them do it.

 

Otherwise I have to buy the same part 5 times and break it 6.

+1, breek mechanic op sy beste :cursing:

Posted

Only once you strip a thread in an expensive component do you realise the value in a torque wrench.

 

i seriously need to get one.

 

Did not want to over tighten the seat post clamp on the new bike and risk damaging the carbon post, so I erred on the side of caution.

 

Was ok for 2 or 3 rides, then all of a sudden my knees were rubbing against my ears.

Posted

Get something like this. It covers 4 different types of BB

 

http://www.selfharmorganisation.org.uk/images/cate_13/640/BIKE-HAND-4-sizes-Bottom-Bracket-Wrench-Bicycle-Installation-Removal-Spanner-Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Repair-Tools-Steel-mog2.jpg

 

I have one and its extremely handy

Bought a Wheels MFG bb from CWC. Asked them if they’ll install it as I don’t have the tool. Yeah sure. Drove through with the bike, get there. They don’t have the wrench and can’t do it.

Go home, make my own and sorted in 15 min.

ea375afbee76704e9086ea90bdbda8b0.jpg

Posted (edited)

If you dont have access to an air compressor. A ziptie or plastic sleeve with a squirt of water.

 

I suppose it depends on the rigidity of the grips you're using, but I usually have foam or silicone grips running. To get them off, I sort of "worm" their way off, literally like a generic worm would crawl. I push from the centre of the handlebar side of the grip, twisting turning it towards the outside until it moves, then I take the other hand and work the "ripple effect" off towards the bar ends. This method moves it around 5-10mm off each time, until it simply slides off.

 

edit: I actually follow the same procedure to get the last 5-30mm whatever of the grips on. I push the grip towards the bar centre, allowing it to bulge, then twist, turn and work that bulge like a wormy worm until the grip is seated properly!

Edited by Dirkitech
Posted

I had old shimano Sora shifters which were not shifting. The LBS said its better to replace them because most times you cant fix them successfully. Not wanting to spend money I took them home, opened up and watched a youtube vid on how to repair. Boom done and they worked great on a quick practice ride. The next week at the 947 they lasted 20km before failing totally. I rode the rest of the 947 on a single speed very low gear. Not a great day out.

 

Luckily a very kind hubber gifted me his old Sora Shifters and have replaced them and they work great.

 

I always say that the best time to do your own "repairs" is a week before a 100 odd Km race. It's also the best time to try out a brand new pair of cycling shoes I expect.

 

:-)

Posted

i seriously need to get one.

 

Did not want to over tighten the seat post clamp on the new bike and risk damaging the carbon post, so I erred on the side of caution.

 

Was ok for 2 or 3 rides, then all of a sudden my knees were rubbing against my ears.

 

^_^  ^_^  ^_^  ^_^

Posted

the last couple of posts in this thread reminded me.

 

Dont put on new tyres the day before a race.

I never realised how slippery new gatorskins could be until riding last years 947 on a brand new set.

Posted

Bought a TT bike from a friend missus brought it back from me. I was super excited to get that bad boy up and running... 

 

NOTE TO SELF: Switch the lights on, yes it was light but then it gets dark! 

 

In my excitement I split the tube! Eventually ended up paying a frame builder close to where I lived to weld up etc.... Moerse fail! I was advised to sand down and smooth the weld out but I asked him to leave it as is so it's a reminder of how flippen stupid I can be. 

Posted

Stuff I learnt - its is always cheaper and faster to take it to a bike shop and let them do it.

 

Otherwise I have to buy the same part 5 times and break it 6.

Pretty much the opposite for me....saves time and money if I do it myself...Bike shops charge a fortune and take forever to do something simple...

 

The couple of LBS's I have tried in the past for repairs only managed to has hash it up...I can do that myself anyway thanks!..

Posted (edited)

Pretty much the opposite for me....saves time and money if I do it myself...Bike shops charge a fortune and take forever to do something simple...

 

The couple of LBS's I have tried in the past for repairs only managed to has hash it up...I can do that myself anyway thanks!..

when i got a new frame my rear m6000 brake was too short for the it. i found out prices for hoses/bleed kits/bleed services. it was cheaper to buy a new in box m6000 rear brake and selling the old one for a silly low price to cover costs. The new one cost me R300 after selling the old one. no bleed required lol. As mentioned...that was cheaper than a bleed+oil+hose

Edited by morneS555

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