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The toolbox thread


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Parktool CP1.2

I have a gripe, with this tool aren't you also relying largely on grip strength to hold the cassette opposed to just hooking the cassette and leaning on a arm like with most chain Whips, hoping to be convinced otherwise

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I have a gripe, with this tool aren't you also relying largely on grip strength to hold the cassette opposed to just hooking the cassette and leaning on a arm like with most chain Whips, hoping to be convinced otherwise

 

The arms of the pliers seem long, so leverage should be good.

A section of chain on either arm should give sufficient grip on the cassette.

Potentially less fiddly than the tried, tested and reliable wrapping of the 'normal' chainwhip.

 

I will post my experiences when I next change a cassette

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I like the pedros vice whip. The parktool is nice not sure how it works compared to the pedros one. I have problems with stuck cassettes and the pedros whip is nice to use to wriggle the cassette free as it is a pliers as wheel. Just never seem to get around to buying one, really must make a plan!

 

Pedros-Vise-Whip-II-1-1340x811.jpg

 

Edit - I see the parktool is similar type of tool. I have used the pedros one tho and liked it.

Edited by Eddy Gordo
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I like the pedros vice whip. The parktool is nice not sure how it works compared to the pedros one. I have problems with stuck cassettes and the pedros whip is nice to use to wriggle the cassette free as it is a pliers as wheel. Just never seem to get around to buying one, really must make a plan!

 

Pedros-Vise-Whip-II-1-1340x811.jpg

 

Edit - I see the parktool is similar type of tool. I have used the pedros one tho and liked it.

Is this vice grip style cassette tool not going to destroy the soft aluminium cassettes?

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Is this vice grip style cassette tool not going to destroy the soft aluminium cassettes?

Nope, I've used it before and it works great, handles are a bit short for really tight cassettes sometimes

 

 

My all time favorite tool is one by unior, it has 3 arms that sit over teeth of the 17 or 16 cog and then a has big hole for your spline tool to go through, will post a Pic if I get a chance

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I've got a Bosch Blue 12V drill, comes with 2 batteries and charger, that works very well. My dad @Porqui has a draw full of them that he uses in his carpentry business. Look around for pricing. Builders often actually has the best prices on them, got one for R998 about 12 months back from them. Price varies from R1000 - R1500, so look around for the best deal.

+1 on the Bosh 12V drill. However I think mine got branded "14V". This is just a confusing sales "interpretation" - when the Li batteries are fully charged, they approach 14V. The tool, batteries and charger are identical to 12V ones.

 

I use mine for most drilling and driving jobs. It is not too heavy. I keep a screw driver bit kit and a drill bit set in the box with the drill. I also have an adaptor to connect it to 1/4" sockets and allen key sockets. The only challenge is to keep swaping bits between screw driver and drill.

 

For heavier drilling, masonry work, hammer drill etc, I get out the extension cord and my old corded drill.

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Question - compressors

 

For the DIY home garage what is better :

 

1. Oil-LESS compressor

 

2. Old school compressor with oil ?

 

 

 

I notice many of the new units are oil.less .... was taught that oil lubricates and would extend the life of the compressor ....

 

 

EDIT .... Did a fair bit of googling .... sadly most sites have a strong marketing undertone. Common thread though being oiled compressors for larger industrial applications. Oil.less seems to be smaller, and possibly shorter life span ... though less maintenance should offset this. Certainly no clear leader at this stage ...

 

My old.school approach tends to the oiled version ... easy and quick to change the oil. But ... what are the real world advantages of the oil.less, for a home garage ?

Edited by ChrisF
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Question - compressors

 

For the DIY home garage what is better :

 

1. Oil-LESS compressor

 

2. Old school compressor with oil ?

 

 

 

I notice many of the new units are oil.less .... was taught that oil lubricates and would extend the life of the compressor ....

 

 

EDIT .... Did a fair bit of googling .... sadly most sites have a strong marketing undertone. Common thread though being oiled compressors for larger industrial applications. Oil.less seems to be smaller, and possibly shorter life span ... though less maintenance should offset this. Certainly no clear leader at this stage ...

 

My old.school approach tends to the oiled version ... easy and quick to change the oil. But ... what are the real world advantages of the oil.less, for a home garage ?

watching reading and listening in closely. I've made some bad choices of late and a bit short on cash, but definitely plan on getting one in the next 6 months...

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watching reading and listening in closely. I've made some bad choices of late and a bit short on cash, but definitely plan on getting one in the next 6 months...

 

My old Makro model is getting on in years .... I now see the pressure regulator no longer goes below 4bar (bit more and the tire could potentially pop ) .... I can put more money into servicing this unit, not knowing the internal condition of the pressure vessel ....

 

 

 

Doing my homework, and keeping my eyes open for a special ....

 

 

 

Just as a frame of reference .... About R2k for the smaller oil-filled units, including a number of basic attachments.  (I already have the attachments, and a decent hose).  Adendorf has a nice silent, oil-less, compressor for R2k, but no attachments ....

 

 

 

 

Meezo, like you, I am hoping some of the users with first hand experience can assist with some valuable advise.

 

 

 

EDIT - bit more google info to add .... (with the knowledge of how my old school 24 liter unit worked over the years)

 

The silent and oil free units seems to have a significantly lower air flow rate.  (40 liters minute vs 110 liters per minute)  This may well be an issue if you ever decide to use pnuematic tools, or any process that requires a constant supply ....

 

You would need to go for the 50 liter unit to get a similar air flow rate.  Significant price difference, and also more space needed to store it ....

 

The most obvious advantage of these new units is the reduced sound levels.

 

 

Digging a bit deeper the Adendorf website shows this for the oil-less units:

No oil means no contaminates which makes these compressors ideal for an array of applications such as spray painting, air-brush, dentistry industry, and clinical industry. Lighter in weight compared to the conventional models If a quiet working environment is important to we, we strongly recommend the oil-less silent type compressor.

 

 

Adedorf seems to have the best prices :

Oil-less - 24 liter unit at R 1945 - https://www.adendorff.co.za/product/mac-afric-34-liter-silent-oil-free-compressor-550w/

 

Old school 24 liter unit at R 1595 - https://www.adendorff.co.za/product/mac-afric-24-liter-direct-drive-compressor/

Edited by ChrisF
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My old Makro model is getting on in years .... I now see the pressure regulator no longer goes below 4bar (bit more and the tire could potentially pop ) .... I can put more money into servicing this unit, not knowing the internal condition of the pressure vessel ....

 

 

 

Doing my homework, and keeping my eyes open for a special ....

 

 

 

Just as a frame of reference .... About R2k for the smaller oil-filled units, including a number of basic attachments.  (I already have the attachments, and a decent hose).  Adendorf has a nice silent, oil-less, compressor for R2k, but no attachments ....

 

 

 

 

Meezo, like you, I am hoping some of the users with first hand experience can assist with some valuable advise.

 

 

Can't really advise, as it depends really on what you're planning to do with it. Other than if you're actually going to use one, a compressor is like many other things in life, buy the biggest you can afford and have space for. 

I've a 2hp/1.5kW-100L-"silent"-no-maintenance-jobbie. In a domestic environment, it makes a big difference having one less tool making noise - especially if you forgot to switch it off and the compressor goes off in the middle of the night.

It's too small for my needs, but I didn't buy it to seat tires.

Edited by stefmeister
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I ordered the Finish Line grease gun, but Evobikes didn't have stock.

This one says VP on the side and by the looks of things, is identicalaHR0cHM6Ly9pbWFnZXMucm9zZWJpa2VzLmRlL2dl

 

264905.jpg

Easy bike has the gun for R199, very good price:

https://www.easybike.co.za/finish-line-grease-gun.html

 

I have the Pedro's one which is pretty much the same, advantage over a syringe is you can pump the grease at far greater pressure and it's easier on the hands.

 

But that being said a syringe does work really well though.

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I was suckered in by a sweet orange deal and ended up with one of these  :ph34r:

 

AEG Brushless Collated Screw Gun

 

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maxresdefault.jpg

 

 

I've been doing a fair amount of dry-walling at home (new ceilings, walls etc) and I do have a pre-owned corded Makita version (which I bought form a Cash Converters), but cordless is so much more convenient especially when clambering up and down ladders and platforms.

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So I have to ask you guys in the know, when it comes to cordless drills etc, what is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? I want to get one soon, mainly for screws and things, but not sure which I should get, I already have a corded drill with hammer function for the "heavy duty" drilling, but what is better between the impact drill and normal cordless drills? Some impact drills I can see have a hex drive, but others look like they have normal chucks, very confusing.

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