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Posted

Many options here, all depends on the look you’re going for and budget. The folks at Riverwoods made some really nice units for our basement cellar:

 

https://www.riverwoods.co.za/wine-racks

 

More budget oriented, have a chat with Karl at Shelf Space:

 

https://shelfspace.co.za

 

He will be able to do something similar to this:

 

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If you’re not in a hurry, and can wait till the laser shops open up again, I’d build something like this, with laser cut bottle cradles:

 

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Here’s a simple wood option, with some subtle led backlighting, could look really nice.

 

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As I say, many options, search Pinterest, decide which look you like and what suits your home, and then take it from there.

 

You are a scholar and a gentleman. 

i tip my wine glass to you Sir!

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Posted

You get intense projects, and then you get ridiculously intense. I don't know that I'd ever repeat this little exercise, but there were good learnings (like never countersink screws if you're trying to adjust drawer faces).

 

So this is for a jolly good Hubber, who has recently be doing some sharp posts on this thread.

 

It's a hackle chest, which is how fly-fishermen (I'm probably using all the wrong terms) keep the feathers, fur and other dingly-dangly bits for tying flies. 

 

The only electric tools used were the tablesaw and router. (My old Metabo circular saw - used in a Triton 2000 - had to go for its first bearings and brushes since 1997. It's been a hardworking beast, but is so old it brought all the staff out to look :eek: )

 

Everything else was done by hand with the trusty old Stanley 4 and 5, my chisels (including a ridiculously useful 3.5mm Milnerton market find), even the old egg-beater drill (it was the only thing that fitted in the drawers for drilling). I'd probably have used a thicknesser if I had one; that would have made life easier.

 

It's walnut, with beech drawer carcasses and 3mm birch ply bottoms. I think there are around 200 hand-cut dovetails. It's mainly glued with bone pearl glue. Um, what else ...

 

I bought the brass corners from a tucked-away place with a funny name in Paarden Eiland, but all the other brasswork was cut and filed by hand.

 

It's sealed with Danish Oil, with a final coat of beeswax. 

 

The doors slide out of pockets in the side, and then swing around to close. I originally fitted a lock but all the miniature cabinet hardware is really *** and weak. A cup of tea brought the answer of the drop-down brass latches; you open the doors by sliding a piece of paper or credit card under the door. 

 

The drawer fronts are largely bookmatched. Each had to be carefully handsawn (1mm kerf vs 2.5mm on the tablesaw) so the grain still kept a good match over the front. Bum-clenching stuff; one slip would be a whole remake.

 

All in all, about 200 hours went into this. Well actually, more like 300, but that was because it took me a while  :whistling:  to figure out that a small dry blob of glue on my square put all my measurements out.  Also, always trust your gut: when I put the drawer runners in, the top rocked slightly but I didn't think much of it. Turned out there was a slight curve due to the rain, so the dovetailed corners wouldn't fit. So that all had to be recut and remade.

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Posted

You get intense projects, and then you get ridiculously intense. I don't know that I'd ever repeat this little exercise, but there were good learnings (like never countersink screws if you're trying to adjust drawer faces).

 

So this is for a jolly good Hubber, who has recently be doing some sharp posts on this thread.

 

It's a hackle chest, which is how fly-fishermen (I'm probably using all the wrong terms) keep the feathers, fur and other dingly-dangly bits for tying flies. 

 

The only electric tools used were the tablesaw and router. (My old Metabo circular saw - used in a Triton 2000 - had to go for its first bearings and brushes since 1997. It's been a hardworking beast, but is so old it brought all the staff out to look :eek: )

 

Everything else was done by hand with the trusty old Stanley 4 and 5, my chisels (including a ridiculously useful 3.5mm Milnerton market find), even the old egg-beater drill (it was the only thing that fitted in the drawers for drilling). I'd probably have used a thicknesser if I had one; that would have made life easier.

 

It's walnut, with beech drawer carcasses and 3mm birch ply bottoms. I think there are around 200 hand-cut dovetails. It's mainly glued with bone pearl glue. Um, what else ...

 

I bought the brass corners from a tucked-away place with a funny name in Paarden Eiland, but all the other brasswork was cut and filed by hand.

 

It's sealed with Danish Oil, with a final coat of beeswax. 

 

The doors slide out of pockets in the side, and then swing around to close. I originally fitted a lock but all the miniature cabinet hardware is really *** and weak. A cup of tea brought the answer of the drop-down brass latches; you open the doors by sliding a piece of paper or credit card under the door. 

 

The drawer fronts are largely bookmatched. Each had to be carefully handsawn (1mm kerf vs 2.5mm on the tablesaw) so the grain still kept a good match over the front. Bum-clenching stuff; one slip would be a whole remake.

 

All in all, about 200 hours went into this. Well actually, more like 300, but that was because it took me a while  :whistling:  to figure out that a small dry blob of glue on my square put all my measurements out.  Also, always trust your gut: when I put the drawer runners in, the top rocked slightly but I didn't think much of it. Turned out there was a slight curve due to the rain, so the dovetailed corners wouldn't fit. So that all had to be recut and remade.

I started getting nervous half way through reading that!

Wow its pretty damn amazing!!! 

DJR I hope you enjoy it, that could hold enough materials for a whole lot of flies.

Posted

LeTurbo, I must thank you a million times for how you did this. I am so glad I asked you to do this because there is no way I would have been able to do something this intricate myself, let alone with such precision.

It fits perfectly into my bookcase, the goodies fit as planned and all I have to do now is find time to fish!

Thank you one more time for something out of a time before time became the be-all goal! 

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Posted

OK, so I've never been any good at woodwork, but I was doing a repair on something at home and had an offcut of wood and so made this for my son:

 

IMG_20181215_231125_zpsjpyvknya.jpg

 

First time since school days that I've made anything out of wood... It's super simple, being basically 2D, but the wheels are wide enough apart so it stands on its own and my boy loved it and took it everywhere with him!

 

[emoji38]

Just watch out with the Landy and oil leaks on the couch [emoji6]
Posted

[emoji38] [emoji38]

 

I was actually waiting for the Toyota drivers to chirp, "Just like a real Landy, it wooden go!"... :D

Toyota drivers [emoji848] I have a Mahindra [emoji1787]
Posted

LeTurbo, I must thank you a million times for how you did this. I am so glad I asked you to do this because there is no way I would have been able to do something this intricate myself, let alone with such precision.

It fits perfectly into my bookcase, the goodies fit as planned and all I have to do now is find time to fish!

Thank you one more time for something out of a time before time became the be-all goal! 

Ahh so I did guess the correct person then :)

Such an awesome chest for your typing supplies.

Posted

I have been working on this restoring this bench for the last few weeks.

My grandfather and I made it when I was just a wee lad. Its over 30 years old and I though it was gone many years ago.

With my fathers passing recently I had to clean out his garage and I found the bits from the bench strewn about in horrible condition. So I set out to restore it to its former glory.

The frame was made with meranti and the panels were old tongue and groove oregan pine floorboards that my grandfather had salvaged years before.

There was a lot of wood rot all over due to the damp garage they lived in so I had to cut things down quite substantially to get to solid wood and then re-shape everything to match the original.

 

I think it came out quite nicely in the end, I added levelling feet to get it off the ground because the area it will live in for a while has a tendency to pool water when it rains.

 

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Posted

LeTurbo, I must thank you a million times for how you did this. I am so glad I asked you to do this because there is no way I would have been able to do something this intricate myself, let alone with such precision.

It fits perfectly into my bookcase, the goodies fit as planned and all I have to do now is find time to fish!

Thank you one more time for something out of a time before time became the be-all goal! 

 I hope it gives you years of good fishing. Maybe your sons, and their sons too! 

Posted

My father-in-law gave me a piece of wild olive branch that the wind broke off in his garden a while ago.  I made a matching pen and pencil set with a desk display stand from the branch.  The top of the upright still shows where an axe was used to clean the torn branch.

 

I tried Woodoc 20 but just could not get it to a good finish with a brush, so I scraped everything off, sanded to 400 grit and finished with boiled linseed oil.  It leaves a silky smooth finish.  I must say, it turned out almost better than I hoped for.

 

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I also wanted to give something special to my mechanic friend and sourced this "Gearshift" pen kit from Mr Woodturner.  The detail on the pen is stunning!  The gear lever engage and withdraws the pen refill, with tire threads at the top and below the barrel.  The top of the pen looks like a mag wheel.  The pocket clip resembles a tire lever.   I also wanted to add a display stand - my first plan was to bend a spanner c 90 degrees twice so that the front end of the pen stands in the ring, with the top end of the pen resting in the open end.  Unfortunately my plumbing torch could not get it hot enough and after a few blows from the hammer, it broke right off.  So then my design had to change to use a straight spanner.   The wood is African Rosewood finished with spray-on Polyeurethane (first time I try that - I am quite happy with the finish - much better than a brush!)

 

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